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Torque spec....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 4X4HIGH, Dec 18, 2005.

  1. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Ok, so i'm installing all new front spring bushings and need to know what to torque the front spring eye bolt to and also the rear spring shackle bolt both at the frame and at the spring. I will be doing this tomorrow evening so not a big hurry for an answer today but it would be nice so i have all my info in front of me.
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Front eye = 90 ft/lbs
    Rear eye = 50 ft/lbs
    Rear shackle bolt = 50 ft/lbs
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    heres the way I have always done it
    using a nyloc or pinch loc nut.
    With the vehicle on the ground tighten the bolt and nut until you can just turn the bolt if ya pull on both the wrench and the rachet.

    i think the book actually says 75-80 but I know on my 1st blazer it put the springs in abind as if it was too tight.
     
  4. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Thanks guys, i knew i could count on my CK5 brothers for an answer, and quick like too.
     
  5. gauder

    gauder Banned

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    Like was mentioned already, do not torque until weight is on the springs.
     
  6. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    For what purpose would i need to wait until i had the weight of the vehicle on the springs? If you think about it, all you are doing is tightening the shackle plates against the inner sleeve of the bushings on the rear end of the spring and the front is captured between a bracket so i don't see any trouble there either. If there is a special reason i would like to know for sure.

    I tell this to people when i change control arm bushings that are factory rubber since they won't rotate and give like a urethane bushing does. But if urethane is used and lubed properly there is no reason to have the weight of the vehicle on the springs when tightening these bolts.
     

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