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Torsion Tweaking?

Discussion in '1983-2005 S-Series models' started by TwoCrowsDesign, Jan 28, 2002.

  1. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Can someone post the basic procedure for squeezing a bit of lift out of an S10 front end. I always hear of folk ratcheting up the torsion spring. Whats involved in that? How do most people match up the rear-end after they've done that?

    Thanks.

    John
     
  2. stump

    stump Registered Member

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    Cranking up Torsion Bars is a fairly simple procedure. (if I remember correctly....it's been a while since i did this) [​IMG] Anyway, jack up the front of the truck and get the wieght of the vehicle off of the IFS. Using a wrench/socket (18mm I think), turn the torsion bar adjusting nut (clockwise) until the desired lift is achieved. Avoid bottoming out the bolt. Do this to each torsion bar and drop the vehicle back to the ground. Drive around a little bit so the T-bars have time to "settle" and then measure each side of the truck to make sure the front sits level. A little fine tuning of the adjusting bolts may be nessesary to obtain the same height on each side. Most people are able to gain about 0.5-1.5 inches of lift. Some even claim up to 2 inches.

    Shackles or Add-a-leafs are the two ways to get the rear to match up with the front. I would suggest shackles instead of the add-a-leafs. They are easier to install and help to improve the driveshaft angles a little. A front end aligment is usually recommened after cranking up torsion bars. I never needed to though, just depends on the individual truck. [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, and be careful working around torsion bars. Even when the vehicle is on jacks, they still have some un-sprung weight in them. [​IMG] Good luck! [​IMG]


    [​IMG]S-10 Blazer....playin' with the big boys[​IMG]
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I did exactly as stump described on my '91 and got 1.5 inches of lift. I used a set of Rancho add-a-leaves in the back to level it out. It does ride a bit stiffer out back, due to the add-a-leaves, but it isn't objectionable. It leaves you with almost no downward travel left in the front suspension and also wears out the CV joint boots faster. They just weren't designed to operate continuously at that angle.

    I've had this one set up like this for several years. But you still can't fit big tires under them. 30x9.50's still tend to lightly rub the front fenders when it's really stuffed.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  4. The_Sandman_454

    The_Sandman_454 1/2 ton status

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    Besides wearin' the boots out at that angle you're also likely wearing the CV's themselves at a more rapid rate too... [​IMG] Especially if the boots get bad and grit from the road/sand gets in there before they're changed... [​IMG]

    Tim
     
  5. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    It's really a moot point since I change out the whole shaft when the boot tears. [​IMG] Bought the lifetime guaranteed ones from AutoZone. [​IMG] I've got it down to where I can swap one out in about 45 minutes.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  6. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the input, most helpful. I don't the wife's ride to be too sally, that just won't do.

    Gotta get those darn running boards off!

    John
     
  7. Blaze

    Blaze 1/2 ton status

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    Man, Harry - 45 minutes? Geez, how many times did you do that? I did the T-bar tweak and shackes on my 86 and got 1.5". Haven't had any problems yet!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www4.ncsu.edu/~brschoch>www4.ncsu.edu/~brschoch</a>
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    1 side is on its 2nd shaft. The other side is on its 3rd. [​IMG]

    Somewhere around 75K miles I rebuilt the entire front end, so I'm a bit too familiar with how it all comes apart. [​IMG] Driving down the highway it tended to drift from side to side. Nothing drastic, it just required concentration to stay in your lane. After replacing the ball joints, tie-rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm, it drove like a brand new truck! [​IMG] Plus all the new parts I installed have grease zerks, so I can keep them well lubed.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  9. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    where are the torsion bolts located?
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    they are at the rear of the torsion bar at the crossmember.
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Sort of near the middle of the truck. The bolts are tucked up inside the crossmember, facing towards the ground. As you turn the bolts in, the front of the truck will rise. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Just keep track of how many turns you make on each side, to keep it level from side to side.
     

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