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Total Seal Rings ..... Engine Rebuilding Help.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Nitrodrip350, Apr 21, 2003.

  1. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    OK well I'm going to bite the bullet and do the rebuild myself. The only problem is I have never taken the bottom end of an engine apart and to make matters worse I found a real good deal on some 350 Total Seal rings. Is there anything special tools I need for the rings? I will just be honing (sp?) the cylinders. I have a ZZ block that I bought here and have yet to rip into her because of this. Well after fighting for 45 mins. getting the d4mn thing on the stand by myself I'm going to start sometime this weekend *crossing fingers* The block is all stock no overboard I really don't think that it has been opened up before. I'm getting new crank bearings, and cam bearings. I already have new top end parts but just need any pointers that a beginner might not know. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I really don't want to do this again since I put the new top end on and blew the bottom end /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif LOL!!!

    Thanks, Shane
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Ya might want to do a search for recent post by twentybelowzero. He's having some issues with the Total Seal rings because his cylinders weren't honed to the proper spec to work with those rings. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Some of us have also wondered just how long those rings will hold up, since the part that overlaps is so thin. You might want to talk to the folks at Total Seal first and see if they recommend those rings in non-race engines. They may work fine in engines that get torn down frequently, but will they last 150K+ miles?
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I highly recomend Child & Alberts ZGS rings.
     
  4. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    Unless you get them cheaper than regular moly rings don't get them. "gapless" rings are a pain in the butt. Even plain-jane cast rings are fine.

    Hastings and Speed-Pro moly rings are pretty inexpensive. And if Hastings is good enough for GM they're good enough for me. But I bought Speed-Pro ones last time (to match my pistons).
     
  5. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    Though I did have or am having issues with these rings it's not the rings . ToTal Seal by all my accounts and reading are Excellent rings and do last a LONG time according to ToTal seal they will last substantially longer than any other conventioinal ring on the market . But when using them make sure you file fit to your specs and hone to the ring specs . Chrome Total Seals are to be honed to a finish of 220 grit and standard Total Seals are 280 so be sure to do this or they will burn oil.....trust me I know ! These hone numbers are much rougher than a conventional set requires and this is where the machine shop screwed mine up ! Also there are numerous race teams using these rings for several seasons so if thats not an indication of there durability then I dont know any other example . So there lasting is not the issue it's getting them in correctly ! Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    CarCraft magazine did some testing between TotalSeal and standard rings. There was a difference in compression and HP. However, Moly rings can be a PITA. Sometimes they seal, other times they dont. Actually im a fan of stock cast rings. They seat almost instantly and you can put 100,000+ miles on them. Really cant see the justification for Moly or Totalseal.
     
  7. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    Well I got the set for 35.00 .... so that is one of the reasons that I bought them. This is what is freaking me out about doing this myself, but really I don't like trusting people with my Blazer. I will use the 280 grit to make sure. Hope this is easier then I think .....

    Shane -
     
  8. TexasT

    TexasT Registered Member

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    Hey what's the worst thing that could happen? My grandfather always told me if you think you can you just might be able to but if you think you can't then you won't. I say jump in with both feet and give it a try. As stated make sure you follow the mfg instructions and I bet it comes out fine. If not at least you got some experience as to what not to do next time. Good Luck

    Rich
     
  9. TexasT

    TexasT Registered Member

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    One more thing. About the wrestling how were you trying to attach it to the stand? My engine stand has a removeable part that attaches to the rear of the block where the bell housing would attach. I take that part off the stand and attach it to the block then with a strong freind and/or neighbor lift the block up and insert the unit into the stand. When you go to install the engine into the truck you'll have to use a cherry picker or gantry crane I would guess and this will get it off of the stand. Good Luck.

    Rich
     
  10. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    Why would you recommend those rings? What are the advantages and disadvantages of using them? What about cost, are they reasonably priced or high dollar? How about availibility? Thanks!
     
  11. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    LOL!!! Yea that is what mine is but this is how it happened. I had the block in the back of the Blazer since I was originally going to take her to the machine shop, so last weekend I just took the stand slid it into the holder that you are talking about and just wanted to slowly lower her off the truck. Well did that, but since I used bolts that were a little to long the weight went them and bent the block down, so then I decided to take them out and put the right bolts on .... well long story short I took two bolts out since I could get the other one lined up then the block fully bent the bolts, fell over on me and broke off in the block!!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Did get the bolts out and got everything hooked up /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Man was that a learning experience. I also picked the block up myself because ... well because I'm stupid! Just thought everyone might get a kick out of my WWF wrestling match with the ZZ350 ...

    So far these are the standings:

    ZZ350 - 1
    Shane - 0

    Shane /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    Here's the specs on them :

    "ZGS means Zero Gap Second, which is designed to provide increased combustion pressure by reducing end cap leakage, as well as increasing intake efficiency. This ZGS ring set has an overlapping step gap design to control end gap blow by and eliminating end gap alignment. Leak down testing has shown reading as low as 0-1 percent is normal on a fresh motor. Dyno testing has proved horsepower gains up to 9 percent along with an increase of 18 to 20 foot/lbs. of torque."

    Sold as a set of 8. - $199.99 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Link to the Rings
     
  13. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the link guy. Looks like there a little out of my range, although they sound well worth it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     

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