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towing?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ed rex, Nov 11, 2002.

  1. ed rex

    ed rex Registered Member

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    Alright, anybody else have trouble towing with one of ours? I towed a small, single axle, travel trailer about 60 miles down the hill last Friday, thought I was gonna die. I'm lifted oh....8+ inches and have 36"x12.50 Super Swampers. Pipe bumper has a built-in receiver and I have a 14" drop down hitch. Even so, the trailer kickes up considerable in the front. Going over 40MPH semi-flat to downhill, the trailer starts whipping back and forth uncontrollably. UNCONTROLLABLY, to where it jacknifed sending trailer, Jimmy, me and the shorthair pointer into the ditch. Fortunately, the 454 was able to move us out without any sweat and with puckered keester I continued along at 35MPH.

    What do you all do? I have trailer brakes but no controller, gonna stop tonight after work and get a controller. I think this should help AFTER she starts whipping around back there to keep it from ditching again, but what can be done on the preventative side? Other than a $350 anti-sway/load distro hitch? Shouldn't need all that apparatus for a dinky 16' trailer should I?
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Often trailer sway/wipping is because you don't have enough tung weight. I tow a dinky trailer that some morons made at our school w/ my s10. They put the axles in the center and if you arn't real careful packing it you can get negative tung weight. It sways real bad without alot of tung weight.
     
  3. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

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    I heard a rule of thumb is 60/40.
    60% of trailer wt on the tounge side of the axle and the other 40% on the back side of the trailer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    ive never had problems towing anything with mine.ive towed anether fullsize on a dual axle trailer that altogether probably weight about 6 to 7000 pounds.i have a class 3 hitch attached to the frame rails top bottom and also welded in extra attachments so all in all i have 6 bolts on either side attaching it to the frame.i always try to make sure that there is more wight torward the tongue and not to the back side over the axle like others said.i didnt ever think about how it would effect the driving if it ws loaded more torward the rear but if it is this way then there is also more of a chance of the ball releasing so that is why i usually put the weight more to the front.just a thought,maybe the bumper is tweeking when the trailer starts to sway.how is it connected to the frame?im no expert so i may be grasping straws here but with that much lift and no sway bar the rear end may be shifting alot with the extra weight on the back springs.i only have 4 inch lift with 35s so i have a lot lower center of gravity and with towing im sure this helps a lot.
     
  5. ed rex

    ed rex Registered Member

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    Thanks for the tips. The bumper tweaking is definately involved in the equation. It moves up and down about 3 inches due to bolts with insufficient diameter. I replaced these (3 per side) last night with 3/4" bolts and the bumper is solid. It's pipe, bolted to the frame. I'm considering welding it to the frame in an easily accessed spot in case I have to grind it off one day, but for now it is very solid. The next thing I will do is to lift the trailer itself in order to put it on the same level plane as the truck. Finally, I'll get a trailer brake controller and hook up those trailer brakes.
     

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