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Toyota Transfer Case Crossmember combo, idea for Chevy auto

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Aug 4, 2005.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I helped a buddy install one in class today. Hes doing a straight axle swap and so he installed one of the Front Range Offroad crossmembers that bolts to the backside of the transfer case. So how does he get away with this? Is the Toyota case really strong enough to take the abuse of being the transmission mount?? I know an NP case just wouldn't take that abuse. Yes I realize its just a V6 in front of the case but hes got the TRD blower and a 5 speed, I'd think its still taking a beating.
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Toy case is just a cast aluminum housing like the NP cases. I dont think I have ever seen anyone try a mount like that on a Chevy case..

    I think it owuld hold up just as well as the Toy cases....


    For those of you who dont know what he's talking about, he is a pic of one:

    [​IMG]

    The black plate around the back of the t-case is the x-member.....



    I've seen some with skid plates attached to guard the case.
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    So I forgot to post the rest of this, I was also thinking about something here. I am puting a 241 behind a TH350. I could get a 700R4 adapter and make a spacer that goes between the TH350 and 700R4 adapter to make up the output shaft length. Make the spacer from a big piece of 3/8" flat stock, and build off of it for a crossmember. Crazy idea? I know I most likely won't end up doing it, just a thought I'm having. Could tie the crossmember into the bellhousing bolts to take some stress off of the transmission.
     
  4. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Yes that is exactly what we installed today. I was wondering how much tougher the thing could really be, read my second post for what its making me think.
     
  5. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I say, TRY IT! :D If you look enough on the net, they run these cases behind SBC's all the time. Only thing the change is the input shaft to 23 splines if it didn't come with one(some are only 21 spline)....

    And most will look at Toys and say they are alot smaller and llighter when in reality they aren't much lighter... Alot of guys on the Toy forum on Por are in the mid to high 4K to 5k+ range. Similar to a K5..
     
  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    What you are saying here doesn't seem much different than what is already being done stock, so I dont see why not. But why not just use the stock adapter foot to mount it rather than fabbing a new one? Unless you went the route of thr FRORF mount.
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Why not 1/4" thick flat stock instead? You'd save some weight and 1/4" thick is still strong enough to prevent from bending/warping.
     
  8. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    the problem is, like almost everyone does with a big lift, I'm going to have driveshaft to crossmember issues. This style of mount would be easier to get around this issue. I'll likely work some modification to the stock crossmember to make it work though. My S10 will probably be something like 12" of lift when I'm done.
     
  9. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I have a sheet of 3/8" laying around. I'm using it for brackets and such.
     
  10. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    If you look at the pic, you can see how they "get away with it". The ends of the crossmember are mounted with rubber mounts. They're aren't bolted solid to the frame, like a GM crossmember is. I hope your buddy used the rubber mounts... :rolleyes:
     
  11. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Being a yoter driver I've looked at that x-member kit. I'm not sure it's all that great of an idea. Ref the discussion here a while back about 4 vs. 3 mounting points for the engine/trans/t-c combo.

    My thot was to build the plate like the FROF kit has, but use a rubber or urethane spring eye bushing pair under/behind the t-c itself. Say directly under the rear driveshaft, but slightly above the bottom of the t-c, perhaps by the thickness of the x-member. Then use a more std x-member to pick up the soft mount. Gets you clear of the front driveshaft and only uses three points.
    The yoter t-c has bosses on it's bottom for the stock mount. Figured to use those to mount a very needed skidplate. Not sure what I'd do if I were to go this route on the Sub.
     
  12. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    The kit comes with the pieces to weld to the frame and Poly bushings :rolleyes:
     

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