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Trail Box Goodies

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jimmyjack, Jan 21, 2001.

  1. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Awhile back there was some input on what we all carry in our trail boxes for emergencies and whatnot. After this weekend I will include a few cans of sterno and those chemical handwarmers.
    The faminly and I went up to the mountains to ski over the weekend. It was 10 degrees, at night, so I turned the heater on and it blew ice cold air. The temp setting was on high, the control was on heat. Even the defroster was cold.
    The heater core, radiator, hoses and water pump are all less than 1 yr old. There is hot water returning from the heater core into the radiator. Any ideas what the problem is? I thought of installing a valve to keep the water in the core longer. But that isnt fixing the problem, just a remedy to the problem.Please, lemme me know what you know or think!

    creepin' and crawlin'

    Jim
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It sounds to me like your thermostat is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to warm up sufficiently. What was the temp guage telling you? In very cold weather you can use cardboard to block off some of the front of the rad, this limits the air flow thruogh the rad and will help keep the motor at operating temp.
    Just a few thoughts.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    First off be carefull using any flame type stuff in the truck with the windows are up...could accidently kill yourself.
    As for the heat....were you showing normal temp on the gage? Just had a stuck up thermostat on my sis's car and no heat was on of the symptoms. If that looks right you may want to pull the glove box door and check the linkage to the blend door. That will be the link on the top of the box and it is what directs the heat into the truck when you slide the temp lever. On both of my trucks I put a peice of cardboard and restrict some of the air flow to the radiator when we get really cold. I do it mostly to try to get some temp in the tranny since I have a big cooler but it helps get the engine temp up. Just keep an eye on your temp gage and make sure it stays within the normal range.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  4. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Thermostat is 195 (i think) and the temp guage reads about 200 degrees. I think for the 3 bucks I'll spend I might as well replace it. Its pretty new too but that doesn't mean much. I havent had to use the heater up til the other night so I never thought about it. It was pretty damned cold! Drove through 2 hours of that misery.

    creepin' and crawlin'

    Jim
     
  5. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I will tear into the glovebox tomorrow and look at that. Everything is normal as far as operating temp, just no hot air. Is that door adjustable? or do you think the linkage just came off? Is the door controlled by the heat setting(cold/hot)? or is it vacuum from the a/c heater control switch?

    creepin' and crawlin'

    Jim
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah that door is adjustable. has a clamp with a 1/4 or 9/32 bolt. it's on the very top of the box. Slide the cold/ hot lever back and forth and you should be able to figure it out pretty quick. That moves the blend door to route air through the heater core. I replaced the core on one of mine last year and as I recall it's pretty easy for the end of the wire to pop off till it is completly clamped down. It's been about a year since I messed with mine but I think there may even be a clip to hold down the wire. Maybe something as simple as that poped off. I think it can come lose at the control also but that doesn't happen often. Worse come to worse if the cable actully broke you can manualy flip it on and get some heat till you can get a cable.
    The vacume operates the defroster door and the doors to direct it to the dash and floor. The way it works is the air always runs through the AC coil. If you want less cold you actuly turn the heater on with the hot/cold slide to control the temp comming into the cab. That way when you hit defrost it turns on the A/C to dry the air but then runs it back through the heater to warm it up.
    It's a lot of air in the truck to warm but both of my trucks will get your feet sweating on the heat selection. Sounds to me that the blend door is not operating.
    I'm actully thinking of putting a A/C switch on my wifes. She hates the heat blowing in her face or feet so always slaps it to defrost. That of course turns on the A/C when it is not always needed and sucks the gas. Not really sure what GM was thinking when they designed the stuff. Pretty nuts to me I much prefer the set up of my Toyota. When you don't want heat it divrts the hot water from entering the core that is located in the vehicle. The A/C has a switch so you can chose when you want it on. Then a Inside or outside air selection to cover max heat or cold. Just works so much better. You can put the air any where you want weather it be hot or cold. Try to get the A/C to blow anywhere but your face and windsheild in our trucks. You cannot get it to blow on the floor. You cannot even get the fan to fully turn off. It is always on. I think this is to keep the air moving through the core so as not to overheat the box. I think it back flushes the air out.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  7. MICHIGAN BLAZER

    MICHIGAN BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    Could be too much water in your radiator too. I've had it before that it won't blow hot air......it'll be blowing cold air and it will start to over heat and just before it over heats it gushes out hot air.....once it melted through the frozen spot.....just another idea to check out.

    <font color=red>MICHIGAN BLAZER
    <font color=green>89 Fullsize Blazer
    87 Cherokee
    65 IH Scout
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    GM's "fan-runs-all-the-time" started back in the 70's as a new "feature". They called it something like "flow-through ventilation". There are vents in the doors that let air out of the cab, so there's always outside air being introduced into the vehicle.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  9. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Grim, I tore into the door and sure enuff, the clsmp you were talking about was broken, so I simply(yeah right) bent the bejeesis out of the "cable" that attaches to the door. It's not super hot but its a whole lot better. I think there are some outside leaks I didnt cover up very well when i replaced the heater core. I'm going to break out the duxseal tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up everyone! And I'm still gonna carry sterno in my box. It was "moto fotin" cold that night!

    creepin' and crawlin'

    Jim
     

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