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trail rig paint planning

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by mostwanted, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I am starting to think about bodywork and painting my trail rig. Please don't flame me because I want to do it on the cheap cheap. I plan to drive this thing hard and not care about damage. Everyone wants a rig that plays hard and still looks nice. I just don't need a showroom finish.

    I bought my rig (cheap) last spring and the p.o. had the origional blue painted black. Well, the black has been chipping away and looks horrible. I want to go back to the blue color.
    As far as rust, there isn't much. I will need to replace the tailpan and parts of the bed. Other than that, the fenders will get trimmed so rust will be cut away in favor of tire clearance. I also plan to replace my doors as they are jacked up from a botched speaker install (also p.o.). I am planning on a mig welder for xmas, so that will be covered.

    Now, for the actual paint, I have no clue on what to do. I want to be able to readily spray over trail rashes (with prep of coarse). I don't want to risk getting mismatch paint from an FNG at the paint store or have a spray can become obsolite. Any ideas on what I should be thinking about?
    Also related to the paint is what "compound" of paint should I use? Enamel or latex or ? Like I said, I have no clue.

    Also, will I need to remove all of the old paint or just "smooth it out?
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Around here thats the norm and your applauded.. Want a nice paintjob and you get flamed...
     
  3. mostwanted

    mostwanted 1/2 ton status

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    I was hopeing that you would post up. I have read some of your post and you seem knowledgable in the autobody subject. I hope that you might have some ideas for me. Ya'll can see pics of my K5 in the link in my sig. Thanks
     
  4. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    Desert camo rattle can. Never goes out of style.
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I was just being a smartass, trying to make a point I suppose.. :o

    Anyway, yeah, I'll peruse thru the questions and give you some thoughts when I get back from dinner... :D
     
  6. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    If you have a compressor and paint gun, I'd shoot it with acrylic enamel. Put a couple of coats on it yourself, or find a friend to help. I know guys that have thinned down industrial paint and shot it too, that works pretty well. They are both pretty durable. The only way to get better is to practice. If you're doing it in a driveway, a rattle can job may be a bit easier- but probably not any cheaper.
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    ok, got some time...

    I would suggest you sand the black off and get it back to the blue before painting it...

    If the blue was factory paint you should be in decent shape for overcoating.. Be aware tho that if you just blast paint over it, you have to be careful and take a few precautions if you have any open edges of paint...

    Say in the process of sanding the black off you sand thru the blue a little and get to the primer underneath, you have to be careful or whatever paint you put on there may cringe at the edges.. Thus why you generally want to at least spot prime areas like that.. couple rattlecans'd get ya buy probably if you choose..

    As far as paint goes, I hate to say it but I would suggest a straight enamel. tech straight out of the 70's, 80's.. Dinosauric and not nearly as good as a urethane, but hella tougher than lacquer and will retain its shine for quite awhile.. It's plus? dirt, dirt cheap compared to a modern day urethane..

    you could also go with some sprayed Rustoleum... Cheap and colors should be readily available for a long time...

    Get a cheapie gun and have at it! If you want more detailed directions on anything, shoot me a pm... :D
     

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