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Trailer Hitch

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by wheelnut46, Jun 9, 2002.

  1. wheelnut46

    wheelnut46 1/2 ton status

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    My truck has a crappy factory trailer hitch. It consists of what looks like 1-1/2 inch square tubing mounted to the frame and a peice of flat stock bent in a U shape mounted to the bumper. There is another peice of flat stock like a tongue sticking out from the middle of the bumper under the licence plate. It is connected to the square tube and the U shaped peice.
    I want to remove this and install a good, old fashioned, class 3 hitch. My problem is that on one side the nut and bolt spin together and there is no way to put a wrench on the bolt. I have tried using the air hammer/chisel with no luck and its so close to the gas tank that I dont dare go after it with a cutting wheel (sparks) or try heat. The other side is stuck also. Anybody got any ideas that I have not thought of yet? There has to be a way. I just dont know it.
     
  2. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    BTW, im not sure what your talkin about "a peice of flat stock bent in a U shape mounted to the bumper" but the rest soundz like the stock one on mine, and its rated at 750lb. tongue weight, jus thought i'd share

    Brett
     
  3. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Location:
    Dillon Colorado, Hang'in in the mountains. Renting
    Sawsall with a grit type metal blade on it.
     
  4. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Drill it out.
    John
     
  5. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    i just replaced mine about a month ago as the original stock one sheared off at the tabs that mount to the frame. Certainly gets your attention when doing 60MPH down the highway with a travel trailer and your hitch shears!

    Anyway, on mine the rear-most bolts, you had to hold the head. Can't remember if there was an access hole on the top of the frame or if we went in through the end of the frame rail. I think the latter. On the bolts closer to the front, they are carriage-type bolts. They drop into a small plate that "locks" them into place using the frame rail to keep the head still. If that is the one turning on you, you may have some real trouble as you can't grab the head. You may have to drop your fuel tank to get in and see the problem.

    Getting mine off was a b!tch. Took me and the U-Haul guy 2 hours to get my old one off and new one on. BTW - if you take it to U-Haul, I got a new 5000/7500# hitch installed (and old one removed). The hitch itself was around $130 or so and the installation was a flat fee of $45. Got the lifetime replacement deal for $5 as well. If I have any problems with this hitch for any reason anywhere (even if it fails because I overload it), all I do is take it to a U-Haul place and they service it for free for life. I HIGHLY recommend this route! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  6. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    My next project is replacing all the rusted bolts on my hitch. Going to drop my tank,and cut the old bolts with a sawz-all. Not looking forward to it. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    On my truck ('81 frame) I was able to get a wrench on those bolts. I bet I had the bumper off at the time, but if you get a LONG box end, you can simply guide it onto the nut, and let the frame hold it in place as you work with a socket wrench underneath.

    FWIW, I'd be careful (wet towel between frame and tank for instance) but not worry too much about a cutoff wheel. Sawzall's are nice too, and work darn quick. Not that you aren't putting yourself in some type of danger, but if the tank and fuel system is as tight as its supposed to be, you simply CAN'T have any problems with fuel vapor there. I personally would use a cutoff wheel if thats all I had. Sawzall would probably be quicker and safer though.
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Long wrench through the hole at the back of the frame has worked for me. Just have to get the rusty bumper bolts loose. 77 Ewwww . Might be old enough to have a atmostphere tank vent (No EVAP) .My 75 is like that I too scared to weld or cut off wheel the rear fenders. I hear ( and I haven't tried it yet) to wait till a windy day and park the truck so the wind is blowing any potential fumes away from the area your working and you should be fine. So are you or I going to try that first? I been living with a torn fender I could weld in a few minutes. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  9. wheelnut46

    wheelnut46 1/2 ton status

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    I bought a nut splitter at Sears yesterday. I'll have to wait for the weekend to try it out.
     

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