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Tranny hump differences

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by k20, Jul 19, 2004.

  1. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    Me and a buddy were discussin what if my truck were manual tranny yadda yadda. So I read through the conversion article from auto to stick last night. Anyway, part I am confused on is the tranny hump. In Henry's blazer he has a fully removeable tranny tunner, that unbolts. Well mine is formed into the floor, would my tunnel be able to clear a SM465? Also where would the shifter come up at? As I recall there is a round, or semicircular indentation in the floor, but as I remember it seems to be really far under the dash. Ive heard of large humps and small humps, I assume the unboltabled one (mine) is the small one, and the large is the one that can be removed. Could mine clear a SM465 or not? Just thinkin ahead lol, plus be kinda fun w/ a stick.
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    that dimple is exactly where the shifter comes through. Your tunnel is glued in place rather than bolted. My 85 K5 was this way. I didn't even remove the tunnel, I just cut the dimple you mentioned out and my trans went right up through there. The Shifter is bent to come out from under the dash. My 84 K5 came factory with a 465, it had a bolt on tunnel and the hole in the same location(even shape) as the dimple in the floor of my 85. I have no idea why they glued the tunnel shut on my 85 and still had the dimple /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  3. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    is it glued down? Its been 2 yrs since i had my carpet out, but i coulda sworn it was all one piece......
     
  4. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    It'll clear anything if you got a /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif
     
  5. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    well I know on a K5 its glued down, you have a pickup right? Could be different in that case
     
  6. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    the newer trucks that came with an auto were not removable, not even glued down. i think this is only true for 2wd. the ones with a stick were removable as well as the 4wd.
     
  7. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    the newer trucks that came with an auto were not removable, not even glued down. i think this is only true for 2wd. the ones with a stick were removable as well as the 4wd.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    My 82 cab also was not glued down.. I had to cut it out with a sawzaw then drill holes and bolt my 4x4 hump in.. was easy /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Been a long time since I'v seen this one covered. I believe 2wd truck tunnels were welded in....any 2WD owners want to correct me?

    My 83 was bolt in, the '86 tub I have now is SPOT WELDED, and uses sealer as well.

    I just noticed the other day that the screws on this tranny shifter boot actually hit the 465, or are VERY close. To me that seems to indicate that perhaps the tunnel was a bit taller in earlier years. It hits sitting, so even worn mounts aren't a cause.

    However, this was a 700R4 truck originally, the dimple was in place, so I just cut it out. Dimpled for the boot screws as well. It will clear, just watch the screw length. I cut mine down a bit...it tweaks the floor pan when the tranny torques and pushes on them. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  9. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    Ok y'all, im starting to think about this lol... Anyone have a pic of the shifter boot/cover/whatever it is in a truck w/ the carpet in? Also, what would I expect to pay for everything to convert my truck over to stick, and what all would I need. I know transmission, transfer-case, crossmember(?), driveshafts(?), brake pedal, clutch pedal assembly and brace. Non-auto steering column, what about the gauges where the display is, does that remove or what? Its been awhile since Ive had the dash apart. Ive read the article on here about converting from th400 to sm465, so should be close on a th400, unless the crossmember on mine wont work (doesnt say in the article unless I am missing it). Just give me a ballpark idea on cost for this shin-dig, I may never do it, but at the moment I am toying with the idea. Also, hydro-clutch vs linkage type. Differences? Everyone seems to want to go to hydro, what all is needed for that conversion, and what hard parts are different? Thanks again guys, I know alot of questions and probably not very organized.

    One last thing, can someone give me a measurement, abouts of where the shifter comes back to? I can sort of feel the cimple in the floor through my carpet so I know where that is, just give me a measurement of how far back(towards seat from firewall) and how high the stick is, is the (lack of better wording) furthest back & down gear. I am wondering if i will clear my console. I remember in an old dually we had, reverse was really far back and low.
     

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