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Tranny replacemnt questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by shum1, Dec 14, 2000.

  1. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    Wow, my $5000 suburban is fast becomming a $15000 dollar rig, I guess I knew that going into it. I just hope when I'm done it will be almost as reliable as a new rig.
    Anyways, I fried my 700r4 tranny today at 124,000 miles. The engine revs but the tranny slips like crazy, It ran great in the morning but it quit as I was pulling into my street. It will run but barely. I've already talked to Steve at bowtie overdrives and a replacement is on the way. I've replaced several clutches in my day but this is the first automatic I've ever owned. Can I replace it by myself? What special tools are needed? Do I have to remove any other major parts first? Do you need to jack up the frame? Any special gremlins I might encounter? Thanks.
     
  2. blackwidowk5

    blackwidowk5 1/2 ton status

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    It shouldn't be to difficult, I replaced the turbo 350 on my blazer with a buddy of mine. Wasn't hard at all. The only thing that would really help would be a transmission jack, but it's not nesicary. The only thing really different from a manual transmission that i can think of is the transmision fluid coolant lines and the kick down cable. And unless your suburban is already high off the ground your gonna have to jack it up. When your putting the torque converter in make sure you fill it up with some fluid first and that you get it all the way onto the transmission. Good luck
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The one place that most first timers screw up is not seating the torque converter all the way into the front pump. Then as they tighten the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine, the pump gets destroyed. Slide the TC into place, then rotate it while pushing in towards the tranny. You'll feel it drop suddenly push in a little bit when it gets to the tang in the pump. Keep rotating and pushing and you'll feel it push in 1 more time. That should do it. Rotate it around a couple of more times, just to be sure you have it fully seated.

    Have fun tightening those top 2 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine! [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com
     
  4. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    The easiest way I've found to drop out a tranny and transfer and reinstall them is to place a cherry picker thru the passenger side door and drop a chain thru your 4x4 shifter hole and lower away! Reverse the process to install. It works SO SLICK!! You have no jack or anything under the truck in your way!!! Usually the jacks don't go down low enough to slide out the whole assembly, so you end up having to take the assembly off the jack to slide it out from under the truck. Cherry picker works bit#hin!!

    ken
     
  5. k5king

    k5king 1/2 ton status

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    i would not try to rebuild your tranny yourself without someone there that knows what's going on!!! you will need some special tools to get it all apart and back together.... i would just replace it...you will need a 7/16 for the d-shaft bolts,a 9/16 for the tranny to engine bolts,15 mm for the transfer case to tranny bolts,, A FLOOR JACK TO HOLD UP THE MOTOR so you don't break off your dist. cap and rotor,,trust me i've done it!!!you will need a 1/2 or 7/16 for the tranny lines and you will need to pull the kickdown cable off the engine and throttle,,5/8??? for the cross member bolts and 13/16??? for the tranny mount on the cross member..hhmmmmmmm??
    oh yeah,don't forget to remove the shifter from the tranny and the transfer and the breather tube and wires from the tops of them either..


    oh and BTW,,it helps to have a friend or two and a case of brewsky,,they don't always work for free!!!lol
    ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????[​IMG]
    I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!![​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  6. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    Not to worry, I'm not messing around. I wont be rebuilding anything. Thanks.
     
  7. smp

    smp 1/2 ton status

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    those other posts are right on the money and are very good tips and do make sure you block up the engine because it will fall back and brake that cap. i would make sure you get a new torque converter and flush those cooler lines auto trannies need to be clean so flush all that crap out of there

    [​IMG]
     
  8. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    A few more questions please: First, looks like the collector Y pipe from the manifolds to the cat needs to come off am I right? If so, do I just take the clamp of the cat? Looks pretty rusted at that connection, can I just take it off at the manifolds and somehow drop it out of the way without taking the cat off? Will I need new gaskets for the manifold-collector junctions? Also I have the NP 241 t-case, how do you get the rear driveshaft off? Do you unbolt from the diff. and let the yoke come out of the case? I dont see any bolts connecting the t-case yolk with the d-shaft, only fixed u-joints. Thanks.
     
  9. Bigmeats

    Bigmeats 1/2 ton status

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    Yes the y pipe soes need to come down. I just disconnected from the manifolds andtook all the hangers off the rest of the of the system this allowed me to lower the y pipe with the tranny and transfer case. After i femoved the y pipe both of my gaskets broke. Also if you have the large inspection cover(i think thats what they sall it) around the transfercase shift lever remove that and you can get to the upper bolts in your bell housing verry easy!! I learned this after i fought with the bolts for about an hour.

    Bigmeats

    Carl...75 Blazer...Manhattan IL
     
  10. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    smp made a very good point make sure you flush the cooler lines you can buy a spray can that attaches to the cooler lines at the local parts store

    s.smith 77blazer lookin 4 mud
     
  11. Hobbes68

    Hobbes68 Registered Member

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    Yep, you have to unbolt the rear driveshaft at the rear diff and slide the yoke out of the transfer case. Don;t forget to have a plastic bag and rubber bands to put over the transfer case output otherwise you'll spill all your xfer case fluid.
     
  12. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    Once again you guys come through in spades!
     
  13. 65FL

    65FL Registered Member

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    Hey, I just did this, I got the tranny from the same place also.

    Things I wished I did differently.

    1. Rent a tranny jack. I went the cheap way, possible but the jack would have made the
    installation easier.
    2. Add an external transmission filter. I didn't and ended up with a clogged governer.
    Not a big deal, Steve from Bowtie talked me through the method to clean it, then I added
    the external filter.
    3. Don't worry to much about the installation, the instructions that come with it are very
    clear and specific.
    4. Watch out for the cooler lines, I kinked mine putting them back on. I need to resolve this
    before driving any further.
    5. Bowtie will want you to run pressure checks before you drive it. You might
    want to order the pressure gauge now. ~$35 with shipping.
    6. Get a transmission temp gauge, they will want you to install it in the pan.
    The pan will already come with a bung, it should just screw in.

    If you have more questions let me know, I will try to help.

    65fl
     
  14. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Definitely make sure you take the time to thoroughly flush out the tranny cooler lines. The debris left over from the wasted trans can quickly ruin the new one.
     
  15. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    65FL: Where and How much is this external filter? Where do you mount it?
    6.2D: How or can you flush the cooler along with the lines?
    do the have the flush at at the local parts chain?
    Thanks guys for the reply.
     
  16. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    Does the torque converter come off the flexplate before you drop the tranny or does it matter? What do you do with the tranny dipstick? Does it just pop out or what? Thanks.
     
  17. NH77Jimmy

    NH77Jimmy Registered Member

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    Yes, the torque converter comes off the flexplate before lowering. I've found that tying a piece of rope across the front of the tranny to hold the torque converter in place saves a mess as well. Yes the dipstick should be able to come out out the trans. Mine have just been a pilot fit. I've pulled them out by working them from side to side pulling upward, after unbolting it from the bell housing.

    Shawn
     
  18. shum1

    shum1 1/2 ton status

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    ONE more question, Does the transfer case come off before lowering the tranny? Also, I have the np241, there seems to be two possible tranny/t-case junctions, both have bolts. There is a spacer type housing that bolts to the cross member. Is this piece part of the tranny or the transfer case? So far I've started taking the bolts out that connect this housing with the tranny but I'm not sure. Thanks guys for all the help, so far so good.
     
  19. NH77Jimmy

    NH77Jimmy Registered Member

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    Re: Tranny replacement questions

    I've done it both ways. Dropping the transfer case, then the tranny, or both at once. I've got a little more weight though with a TH400/NP203 combination. I think it's a matter of preference, but it's easier to line the shafts (input/output) between the two when they're out of the truck, for when you put it back in. I think the guys will agree with me on this one. To answer your other question, the housing you referred to is the adapter plate betwwen your trans. and transfer case.

    Shawn
     
  20. Re: Tranny replacement questions

    Its a hole lot easier to drop them as one piece and take them apart on the ground.Also puting them back together on the ground,its a pain to spline the t-case onto the tranny when its on the ground.A big flathead screw driver is nice to have to turn the flywheel to get the bolts out of the flywheel.When reinstaling the tranny tie up everything that can drop between the motor and the tranny,it will make things alot easier.Good Luck
     

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