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Tranny troubles

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by NewK5Guy, Apr 9, 2001.

  1. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    Fixing my car has been pushed back another week no thanks to VISA. Now, the 700r4 in my 84 k5 is starting to show more torque converter shudder than usual. I'm getting scared this thing won't hold together long enough for me to get the car done.
    Can I safely drive the truck without lockup? My k5 is a diesel, but the tranny is pretty much the same as the gas version(except the belhousing bolt pattern). Can I unplug the torque converter from the tps and just drive 1234 without lockup? Will it hurt the tranny? I'm aware that I'll lose some economy and it will drive a bit different. I just need some help to buy me some time.
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Are you running an auxiallary tranny cooler? This is one of those cases where no matter what you do, the tranny is going to fail. Just unhooking the TCC and having the tranny fail will not prove the TCC was at fault. If you have an auxiallry tranny cooler, you probably won't make it any worse..does it only shudder in 3/4 when locked up??

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  3. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    No cooler yet. Been planning on one but have to get the car back on the road first. Looks like an aux cooler will be next before the body work.
    Yea. It only shudders in 4th gear in lockup. What it is, is that it won't come out of lockup when you lightly press the pedal while in 4th gear. It will start a shudder occilation until I press the pedal far enough to cause a full downshift to 3rd, where it comes out of lockup, downshifts to third, the follows the normal upshift process when the vehicle speed stabilizes. It's just the tranny will NOT come out of lockup once it locks up. I'm considering one of the new lockup controllers for 700r4's that will let me change the vehcile speed at which lockup occurs.
     
  4. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    Are you going to do the work yourself? What I mean is if your torque converter is the culprit do you plan on yanking out the tranny yourself?

    <font color=blue>Professional <font color=red>JEEP EATER</font color=red> it's a population control thing.</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You might want to pick up an ATSG 700R4 service manual..has diagnosis and such in it. Could be something as simple (yeah right) as the TCC solenoid or something...of course if you aren't doing the work yourself, then you'll just have to wait.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  6. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    I'll look for that manual. It'll just have to be right now. I just hope it will stick together long enough for me to get the tbird back on the road. It was it's normal usual self today(except for the electrical glitch this morning). I'm looking at tranny coolers now. I'm mostly interested in a jc whitney 16 pass cooler. I was looking in the Jegs catalog for some small(relatively speaking) 8 or so pass coolers with fans, but the thought occured to me "the longer the fluid is outside the tranny, the cooler it will be before it gets squirted back in". So, I went and relooked up the 16 pass unit in the jc whitney catalog. Sixteen passes with an electric fan should do an adequate cooling job of the fluid. Finding a place NOT in front of the rad will be the challenge.
     
  7. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    Hell no I'm not doing the work myself! Two things on a vehicle I won't mess with: trannies and brakes. Even if I did know what I was doing, I have no where to do it. But, if you know what you're doing, come on down and help yourself.
    Pretty much the worst thing is having to take down the t case just to get to the tranny. I'm considering buying a blown out 700r4 and having it rebuilt. I'm just praying that this one will hold out until I can get something done...
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Mount it in front of the radiator, just not TO the radiator. I used "plumbers strapping" to mount one to my car, so that it would stay on their good, not move around much, and bolt up with no additional holes drilled. Plumbers strapping is that metal "tape" that comes in small roles, and has a hole every 1/4" or so. Flexible, but when pulled taught, won't let the tranny cooler move.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  9. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    Actually, I was looking for a way to keep it away from the rad. I want to try to take the heat load off the radiator so it can concentrate on cooling my engine, which is a diesel. I looked at my front end and it looks like the cooler would fit perfectly in front of the front crossmember. Tilted at an angle and kept a few inches from the member, there should be plenty of airflow at speed as well as at idle with the assistance of an aux cooling fan. There's even room to fashion an air scoop if I have to. I have a 6" lift so clearance is not a problem. I'll let you know how it goes.
     
  10. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    You can run without lockup, but you shouldn't use OD. If your shudder only occurs in 4th gear, you probably shouldn't use 4th anyway. You don't really need it; remember when the top gear in every car was 1:1?

    If the truck is TBI, this may throw some fault codes.

    Does lightly pressing the brake pedal unlock the converter?

    As a last resort, you can always climb under the truck and unplug the electrical connector going into it to disable lockup. With a stock torque converter and staying out of OD and not getting on the gas too much, this should be fine. It would still be better to have a temperature gauge to be sure, though.

    There is no guarantee that the shudder is due to a bad converter. It could be a bad pump bushing or bad seal on the input shaft, a bad TCC solenoid or a sticking valve. However, a rebuild is almost never necessary for this problem and you could probably have it fixed by a shop for within $500. They'll usually get about $300 just for yanking the box and putting it back and then $100 or so for a new converter. Throw in some time for troubleshooting, some new seals and bushings and a fresh filter and load of fluid and there you are.

    Let me know if you have any more specific questions.

    <font color=green>"MAN THOUGHT HURT BUT SLIGHTLY DEAD" --Providence (R.I.) Journal</font color=green>
     

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