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Trans holes stripped

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigjbear, Mar 13, 2001.

  1. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Well I spent a good part of my weekend trying to stop the leaks coming from my TH350. I took it out for a spin today and left the trans tunnel off. As I was going down the street I found the real source of the leak. I could see fluid pudddling up on the crossmember. One of my x-fer case adapter bolts is stripped out. One more feels almost gone. The top one just goes through an ear so I can Heli-Coil it. The lower one goes into the case and is the one that feels almost stripped. Now here is the question: Does this bolt go into the fluid filled part of the case? If it does I am guessing I don't want to be drilling & tapping in there. If this is true how about useing something like Loc-Tite's Thread Maker. I don't want to put too much into this trans because it is on it's last legs.

    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  2. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Anyone?

    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Don't know much about the holes going into fluid filled areas, but if you have to do it, you have to do it. I would make sure when drilling that you use a bit covered in grease, to catch as many chips as possible. Also go real slow so you don't bust off large chunks as the bit goes through the last bit of metal.

    I would recommend the thread inserts over helicoil anyday, anyway. The threadsert is threaded inside and out..inside the diameter you need, outside the next larger size or so. You drill the hole out, tap it for the threadsert, screw in the threadsert (comes with dry loctite on it that I have seen) and be done with it. I and many others have used them on aluminum intakes and they work excellent, even sealing against fluid.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Not positive on your 205 but on my 203 there are O-rings on the bolts. If the bolts loosen any it can leak around the bolt on mine even though it's not leaking at the main trans to adaptor seal. I asume your 205 is mounted the same way as my 203. O-ring on the adaptor. Adaptor then bolts to case with 4 bolts that are not acccessible once case is mounted to adaptor.
    www.southerngear.com if you need the paper gasket for case to adaptor. CHEAPEST place I have found and always in stock. Off Atlanta road.
    If your still messing with it this weekend and I got the Car together I can come give you a hand if you need it.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  5. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    My 700R4 did this a few years back. I bought longer bolts for the top, and put locknuts on the end (they stuck all the way through the ears. As for the bottom bolts, check the bolt length to see if you could use a slightly longer bolt to catch more threads, and maybe buy a bottoming tap to get all the way to the bottom of the hole. Not the best solution, but it might get you by until you're ready for a new tranny.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  6. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Grim, I didn't pull them out so I don't know if they are o-ringed. I tightened the three I could and ran a bead of RTV around the the edge. At least it stopped the leak for now. The 205's adaptor has four bolts that are easy to reach with the trans tunnel off. I'll send you an e-mail.
    Pete, my first thought was to use a longer bolt, but I think the TH350 case slopes up too quickly.
    Dorian, thanks for the advice about the inserts. Can I get them at NAPA, etc?
    Everyone, if you have to do work in this area take the trans tunnel off, it makes life so much easier. Thanks for the help. It is road worthy, now I just have to make it off-road worthy, again.




    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    The extra nuts were pretty close to the case on the 700, never tried it on a 350.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I bought them at a real hardware store..i think maybe even Lowe's carriers them now. I believe "threadsert" is the actual name for them. I wouldn't try places like home base and such..NAPA may have them, or at least can get them.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     

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