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trans hump ?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by beater_k20, Jul 5, 2004.

  1. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    on my rig i'm using an 86 C10 cab. its a factory auto truck, so there is no shifter hump, just the standard trans tunnel. i have a pair of 465 humps, one that Tim gave me, and one that came out of my 81 K30. they are both identical. i test fitted it to my floor boards, and it doesnt quite fit. the mounting flange on the sides hump is parallel to the ground, where the cab floor is about 45*. the front fits fine, but the rear has about a 1" gap. is this normal? or do i have the wrong hump for my cab?
     
  2. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    I helped my neighbor do C on K cab swap a few years back. The floor pans are really the same, but that hump piece is a seperate piece. The C's have the indented outline where the hump should go, but those were stamped out prior to delivery to the plant and bigger, wider/longer seperate pieces were used as bolt on's (remember to bolt on, the pieces must overlap). I do not remember a gap, but since his old cab was so rotted, we didn't even try to remove that old hump piece, we just cut out the outlined piece in the C cab, welded on some additional sheet metal flanges, drilled some bolt holes and cut out the shifter holes.
    Yours may fit if you remove the metal in the cab that isn't supposed to be there, which you have to do anyway.


    But you know, you could always just cut the holes for the shifters, and call it done. We didn't think about that till after we cut out the C cab's one, and felt a little stupid about it, but really, I can't think of a reason to cut it completly out, why not just cut the two shifter holes?
     
  3. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    the metal that's under the cab isnt what is giving me problems, its the hump and the "flange" where it bolts. they're just not jiving for some reason. i've thought of just cutting the holes, but there has to be a reason for the factory to put the hump in there and not just use the standard 2wd floorpan cut for the shifters. if memory serves me correctly, in order to pull it off that way i would need a body lift, which is out of the question.
     
  4. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I know what you mean by the floor angles not matching up. I think that they may have used 2 different floors depending on if it was 2wd or 4wd. I tried to put the removable hump in a 2wd cab once but decided it would be too much work. The truck had a 2wd cab on a 4wd frame when I got it and it had no body lift. (th350,np203)
     
  5. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    the all 4wd and 2wd w/manual had a big hump, the newer 2wd w/autos had a small hump that was not bolted down, i think it was glued /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    one of my friends found this out after he put the cab on his truck, he ended up cutting the floor on another truck and then welding it in this truck so he didn't need a body lift.

    IIRC the tranny will clear just fine but the tcase will hit the floor of the 2wd cabs.

    what kinda seats you runnin? if a bench, then just cut the 2wd hump for the shifters and beat the floor to clear the tcase /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  6. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    bench for now, buckets later probably.
     

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