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Transmission bolts to the engine...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dremu, Nov 25, 2006.

  1. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    can I get them off without pulling the hump?

    1985 M1009 CUCV, no body lift, and I am too lazy to pull the floor mat up to see if the hump is removable or not.

    Lots of extensions, u-joints, and swearing?

    -- A
     
  2. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    i couldnt get at mine in the K20 at all. good thing its gonna be down for a frame off when the motor/trans come out.
     
  3. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    $#@^$&^@&$ That's not what I wanted to hear :doah:

    And I just realized that I took photos of the floor when I repainted it ... and it's the spot-welded hump. :mad:

    This is gonna suck.

    -- A
     
  4. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    i can...but im 17 and i layed on top of my motor to do it. if you pull the dist its MUCH easier. but tehn you gotta got through the bs of getting that set up correct again. lol
     
  5. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Setting up a dizzie on my 6.2 would be a hell of a trick :)

    Seriously, that IS a trick ... you must have SKINNY arms. Oh to be young again :haha:

    -- A
     
  6. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I use a 2 foot extension and get them from the bottom. :thumb:
     
  7. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, I may be fussing over nothing ... I just remember when I did my '74, it was a PITA, and I had the hump OFF on that truck.

    If all six can be hit from the bottom, then I may be okay... thanks!

    -- A
     
  8. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Take the bolts out of the crossmember and drop the rear of the tranny down using a floor jack. This will tilt the motor and tranny allowing you to remove all of them with just extentions or long arms and standard wrench.
     
  9. t89blazer

    t89blazer 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    2nd clarkjw24
     
  10. MattK

    MattK 1/2 ton status

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    yeah this will help, just be careful while keeping in mind that they dizzy is already pretty close to the firewall.

    i did my engine swap getting to everything from underneath except the one BH bolt that is right behind the #8 cylinder. got to that one from above. i only used a wrench and a lot of patience.

    when i did my 465 swap i removed the inner tunnel. used a couple extensions and a wobble, life was good.
     
  11. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Patience, not my strong suit =))

    OTOH, the diesel is decidedly distributor-free, so I'll hafta check for other clearnace :D

    Thanks all!

    -- A
     
  12. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    i've done it w/ a 6.2 both ways - removing the tunnel and not. if you get a real small 1/4 ratchet, you can get to it from the top ok. it's a pain in the ass. i was unable to use just extensions from the bottom, as there is a bolt right at the top (this top bolt is the only one we did from the top). the others can be gotten w/ a combination of extensions.
     
  13. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    if going with this method please be sure to remember that the bolts you are trying to access are the only thing holding the trans and transfer case in the truck. when you take them out, the trans and transfer case could very easily fall out at that point.
     
  14. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, tranny is now loose -- I had a tranny jack under it, so fear not, Beater K20, I'm still alive.

    4x4High, you were right on ... looong extensions, but also: AIR RATCHET (woohoo!) MUCH easier than one click at a time with the hand ratchet :(

    I suspect, however, I'm supposed to undo the three bolts holding the torque converter on, and remove it WITH the tranny (and t-case, as it's still attached) ... as sliding the torque converter on and off the splines for the tranny ... is an art form, apparently. :(

    Is this the case?

    Next week on Aaron's garage: How to clean up what seems to be 87 gallons of ATF leaking down the driveway...

    -- A
     
  15. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    yeah, it's easier when you unbolt the tc. to get to those bolts, it's easiest to remove the oil filter. also, it's easier if you have a second person with a wrench on the crank shaft bolt to keep the engine from turning, but i've done it by wedging a 3/8 extensioni nto the holes in the flexplate. be careful not to get it eternally lodged up in there tho. :) i've swam in the red oil too, a few times. :yuk:
     
  16. MattK

    MattK 1/2 ton status

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    yeah ive done it both way and it's definitely easier to take the TC off with the tranny.
     
  17. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I'm not sure what trans your working on but all of the autos I've removed have two dial pins that keep the bell housing aligned with the block. Unless your pulling the tranny combo toward the rear of the truck while as the same time removing the last bolts, it not going anywhere. The block and tranny at this point are pushing into each other. Also the "ears" of the bell house are usually craddled in the exhaust to a certain extent. The thing to remember is not to drop the tail end to the floor, just enough to get to the bellhousing bolts.
     
  18. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Its usually best to remove the torque converter bolts first.
     
  19. Corey 78K5

    Corey 78K5 1 ton status

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    If it was easy they would have school girls doing it:D With that being said I always just reached over the back of the engine with an end wrench with good results.......
     
  20. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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