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Transmission coolers For 700R4

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by _DeeVee8_, Apr 28, 2000.

  1. _DeeVee8_

    _DeeVee8_ 1/2 ton status

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    My rig had a newly rebuilt transmission in it and I'm just wondering why the builders didn't run the coolant lines through my B&M Trans cooler already installed on my truck. What kind of problems would I encounter by running the lines myself to this cooler --(i.e. because I live up north in maine) Wouild the cooler work incorrectly when the season changes from summah to wintah? (temps get down right into the lower negative digits)

    So would I have to put a check valve in the line to make it work right? and also--how would I install a temp gauge on this to see how the trans is holding up?

    My wheelin style is MILD to WILD!
    -Dv8

    "The only gun control this country needs is a steady hand".-- [​IMG]
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well a cooler is always a good thing but yes there is a point in certain climates where your running it too cold. Now as to why they didn't use the cooler I only have 2 ideas. 1 they just plain screwed up and missed it. 2 there is some sort of problem with it. If this is a stack plate cooler and you had a tranny detonate they may have been concerned about debris stuck in the cooler and had a concern of it possibly comming lose and tearing up the tranny. I would flush the thing fully before use. Also it may have been just what you thought and it was too cold to run it. If you look in Jegs and Summit they have a thermosaticly controled valve that you install in the lines running to the cooler. Basicly if it's under 180 deg it bypasses 90%. If you hit 180 it routes it through the cooler. They always alow 10% to keep air from being trapped in the cooler as well as to keep the fluid fresh. For your climate It would be recomended.
    Fluid does need to reach a decent temp for a couple of reason. The biggest is it will boil off any condisation and that will allow it to vent out. Also most lubricants are designed to work best between a certain temp range. Usualy about 150-180. It's the over 200 mark that you need to start being concerned with damage and if that B&M works anything close to as well as my Hayden that will just about never happen.
    Jeg and Summit also sell a gage kit. On a 4x4 I personaly feel it's worth it. If you start heating into the danger zone you will know to ease off of it before you damage the tranny. The kits they sell mostly take the temp in the cooler lines. I found a Kit in the Local Pep Girls made by Hayden that takes the temp in the pan. Personaly I'm not sure what is the better location. What I did like about the Hayden I have is the fitting for the sender you install into the side of the pan can be used as a drain plug when you service the tranny.


    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  3. rich

    rich 1/2 ton status

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    If you're using rubber hose to make the connection to the cooler, make sure you use hose designed to be used with a trans cooler - otherwise the hose will melt or burst! Trust me, I know from personal experience!

    Also, when splicing your existing metal lines to the cooler, use two hose clamps (instead of just one) where you connect the hose to the existing metal lines. Tighten them really tight, and it won't leak.

    Richard
    '76 K-5 Blazer
    '90 K-5 Blazer
     
  4. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Grim, you bring up a good point about where to get the temp reading from. Personally, I think the line to the cooler will give you the most meaningful reading, as (I think...)that would be the highest temp place. Any arguments??

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
    [​IMG] So many ideas, so little money...
     

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