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Trial and ERROR! Crap. Suggestions?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Jed, Jun 2, 2002.

  1. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    ARRRRG! Call it a good learning experience or massive stupidity. I was drilling a hole into a broken off bolt for an EZ out and I struck anti-freeze. The bolt is the power steering bracket pivot bolt (top) that goes into the the front of the head on the driver's side. It was only about 3/8 of an inch in when things went south - which doesn't match up with the head I looked at in a speed shop (it looked like at least 3/4 inch deep).

    The head on sbc400 in my K25. I haven't pulled the head.

    Whad'y'all think about the reliablility of just getting the rest of the broken bolt out, cleaning up the threads with a tap and re-installing the thing with a bit of teflon tape on the bolt threads?
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd use the pipe thread sealer made by Loc-tite for that...it is a gooey liquid that comes in a tube. It's called Loc-tite 592 thread sealant. pn#59231 (I have a tube siting right in front of me) then cross my fingers! I find teflon tape isn't the best stuff out there.

    Good luck!

    Rene
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Maybe somebody before you drilled through the water jacket and that's what caused the bolt to seize. Personaly that doesn't scare me. Yeah it would make me mad to find soembody did that but it's not all that bad of a problem. Your going to put a bolt back in any way once you get the busted one out. Just put some thread sealer on the new one and it will seal the water passage back up.
     
  4. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Like Rene said, use the thread selant that doesnt harden. It works great. I use the stuff from Ford, because its cheaper.

    Dan
     
  5. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Thanks for the quick replys and good tips on sealer. I don't know the history of this broken bolt but I suppose the hole may have already been there - I didn't feel any change while drilling from the metal of the bolt to the casting - I thought I would with my dull drill bits!
     
  6. Jay73K20

    Jay73K20 Registered Member

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    Now you have a good excuse to tell your wife why you have to junk the heads so you can get a good pair of vortec heads.
     
  7. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I'd clean up the hole with alcohol to help the goop stick better. Permatex makes some good thread sealer.
     
  8. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    good suggestions have been made. Its ironic because before my last desert trip, I had to fix that exact same bolt, on my sbc400/K25. Except I got lucky and had about 1/32" of bolt sticking out and I could grab it with vice grips. For a replacement I went to the hardware store and figured out the length of bolt and number & thickness of washers to make the whole setup work the same way.

    mike
     
  9. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Yeah, Vortec heads, that's the ticket! Actually, I don't even know what heads are on the thing yet. I have yet to pop a valve cover to look for a casting number. I'm assuming they're the standard 76 cc ones that came with a sbc400 (#493s or #882s, probably 882s since I think it's a 1980 K25). It seems to have a rebuilt engine (it's painted all blue and there's no blue smoke) so it may have been warmed over with other stuff internally (it's got headers).

    I only think it's a 1980 cuz - get this - the carb id# indicates 1980 (#17080204), it seems to have the early style frame since it only has one hole on the front cross-member where an ORD steering brace will mount (thanks for the photos on your site ORD!) and it's got that late 70's 3/4 ton stuff - 400 sbc/th400/np205 with 8-lug 14bFF and 10b. Yeah, someone could have swapped in a new carb and any of the other pieces but it does have 10 bolt up front to indicate 77 or later so I'll stick with 1980 for now (if they swapped everything else you'd think they'd have thrown in a D60 too). Oh yeah, it's got a cherry 1987 body to confuse matters so the VIN doesn't help. Is there a better way to radio-carbon date a frame?
     
  10. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Hey Mike, I don't suppose you still have the correct bolt length, thread and spacer/washer thickness measurements? If you find them could post them?

    My bracket is missing the spacer and I'd hate drive the bolt in too far and block the water passage. I'm going to try to find the bolt in stainless too so it doesn't rust-seize again.
     
  11. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    *#)$*!* $@%% now the freakin EZ out snapped off it the hole. Nothing is going right today. There's nothing much to get a grip on and drilling through the EZ out is going nowhere.

    Is there a special kind drill bit I should get for drilling through an EZ out? Time to start searching this list for info on Vortec heads perhaps >:-|
     
  12. Jay73K20

    Jay73K20 Registered Member

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    My 73' frame has the VIN stamped into it on the driver side rail above the engine crossmember. The heads are screaming to be taken off and replaced with voorrteecc, a good 40 hp increase.
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Try and turn the remains of the EZ-out the opposite direction. Plan 'B' is to take a small punch and try and break the rest of the EZ-out so it comes out in pieces. It's brittle (as you found out) so it should break some more.

    If you can get it out try drilling the hole up to the tap size for the bolt that goes in there...then run the tap into it. You'll need a bottoming tap.

    Rene
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I thought you were just going to drill the hole out...seriously, I was going to post "I don't have any confidence in EZ outs" last night, but figured you'd just drill the hole out. Not sure if it would have changed your mind, but I'm sorry for not posting.
     
  15. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I did the same thing in a D60 steering knuckle a while back. Bolt broke of just below the knuckle surface. Ease-Out broke off flush with the bolt. Man I was getting pissed. Then I took my shiny new Mig welder and welded the Ease-Out to the remains of the bolt and then built up a nub on top. After cleaning up one miss-strike with the arc using a die grinder, the bolt which had refused all previous attempts at removal (broke off the head and then the Ease-Out) came out easily. The concentrated heat from welding on the bolt broke it loose when a torch used earlier hadn't phased it. If you have a little sticking up, you can sometimes stick a nut over the nub and weld it on through the hole. If you have enough nub, you can also get a brass washer with a hole the size of your bolt to *help* prevent miss-strikes from welding the bolt to the part. This is just another option (assuming you have access to a welder or someone who does AND knows how to use it) but be carefully, you can really screw it up with a welder.
     
  16. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Frig. I've broken about 5 drill bits and even the cobalt ones go dull very quickly. Drilling through an EZ out is like drilling through a diamond.

    I alternated between drilling and banging it with a punch for about 2 hours today will not much progress. I'll see if I can 'excavate' around the EZ out (in the broken bolt) with small drill bits tonight but if that fails then it's either plug it up with RTV (major hack and who knows if the EZout is blocking the water passage) or pull the head and go to a machine shop.

    Anyone know if the brake booster has to be moved to get the #7 cyl push rod out? Mr Chilton says yes but Mr. Haynes doesn't say a thing about it...

    I'm getting to know my truck a lot sooner than I thought!
     
  17. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I think your idea of excavating around the EZ-out is probably gonna be your answer. Hopefully you don't break any drillbits doing it though.

    Try drilling at a really low RPM, and use some cutting fluid like Rapid tap. That may keep the bits sharper for longer.

    Rene
     
  18. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    sorry I dont have the measurements for the bolts and washers. I was gonna ask you /forums/images/icons/smile.gif I disassembled the motor and threw allllllll the bolts in a bin and now I have to figure it all out again. Im sure it was a 3/8-16 bolt, and the thickness of the washers should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 3/32 to 5/32....

    As for the broken bolt, Im sure the easy out didnt affect the water flow. My brother had some broken off bolts on his 440 mopar. they were exhaust manifold bolts which ALL hit water and the only way to fix it was remove the head and have a high dollar machine shop laser cut the studs out.

    I like K30's suggestion of breaking the easy out more. Ive had good luck with that method.

    you might want to invest the 75 or 80 bucks in a drill doctor to resharpen dull bits. it will come in handy later too.

    anyways dont get too frustrated. most of us have been in your situation. at least I know I have SEVERAL times. it will work itself out in the end. even if it costs you several hundred (thousand?) dollars

    keep us posted
    mike
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Do they make any type of "hole saw" that works for metal? I'd think if you could get one just larger than the stock bolt size, cut that section out, you could maybe re-tap for one of the thread serts and call it good? You'd have to know if taking that much metal out though is feasible, if the casting isn't strong enough, I imagine the head would break whne you put torque to the newly installed bolt.

    Just throwing out ideas, and lucky thus far that the worst I've had to deal with are broken exhaust manifold studs...easy stuff there : )
     
  20. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I've used a 'coring' bit before. Not for removing an EZ-out, but it may work. I'd think you'd need to go too big for it to be feasible though...

    Rene
     

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