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Tricks to increase flex

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Shaggy, Jul 2, 2002.

  1. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I'm planning on pulling my springs and working them to try to increase the flex, I was just wondering if anyone had any good tricks on how to get the most out of them. I have Superlift springs, 6" all the way around, the fronts are the Softrides. I've already loosened the clamps and I am going to remove the overloads in the rear. I've heard rumors about graphite impregnated paint or something like that, I've also heard that the little pads that you can get to go on the tips of the springs just fall out, so they are not worth the time. Any other tricks, or links to products that I might use to get the most out of these?

    Also, if anyone wants to trade some 4" rear springs for my 6" rears I might be interested, depending on what you have. I'd like to do a shackle flip, but if I do it with the 6" ones the truck is going to sit way ass-high. The D60 with the offset 0 rate should bring the front up about 2", so with 4" springs and the flip I should be good.</font color>
     
  2. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Pry your springs apart at the front and back and grease the snot out of them. I did mine and noticed a difference when I ramped it. Also you can pull the spring packs apart and round the ends before greasing them. Longer shocks really helps too.
     
  3. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I have some really long shocks already, I changed the top mount so they don't bottom or top out. Grease? Really? I'd be afraid that everything would just stick to them and make a big mess! I use it at Pismo quite a bit and I'd just be afraid of the sand working in between the leaves.</font color>
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I'm not a big fan of greasing the leaves. I think it is a temporary solution at best, and likely a problem when the grease gets contaminated. I would take a leaf or two out of the packs. Since your talking of trading for a 4" lift, it seems the loss of an inch or two won't hurt. It will definitely help allot in the front to remove a leaf, probably a bit less gain in the rear. By flattening out the spring arch (because of missing leaf) you will move the rear eye back a bit. This helps by improving the shackle angle AND by reducing the rate of the spring. Much better travel in both directions. I wish I had gotten 6” springs and removed leafs to achieve a 4” lift. I would be in much better shape right now. Only down side is that spring life span will be shortened due to added flex.
     
  5. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I'm not sure that I can spare the room to lose the height, unfortunately. I thought about removing a leaf or two, but as it is the tires hit when it's flexed up. If I make it so it's more flexy and still the same height then my tires will be shredded pretty quickly. Plus the fact that I'm going to 42s when the 38s are worn out, so I don't want to have to redo the whole thing again. Maybe it will be OK after I push the front axle forward 1.5" and take more metal off of the fenders though. I'll have to look into that.

    I saw somebody put some sort of plastic between the leaves, would that last or would it just wear out really quick? I wish I'd just gotten softer springs and a shackle flip in the first place, but back then I didn't know what springs were the softest and ORD wasn't making the flip kit yet. Oh well. Any other ideas would be great.</font color>
     
  6. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    My superlift springs were apparently dipped in paint and had it all over them. I took a belt sander to each leaf individually and cleaned all the paint chucks off and noticed a big difference. I kept my load leaf, but put a 1/4 shim cut down like a half moon between the load leaf and the bottom leaf of the pack giving a lot more compression travel. Use graphite between the leaves it will lube without attracting dirt and mud. Greaseable bushings will help also.
     
  7. BOWTIE

    BOWTIE 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I saw somebody put some sort of plastic between the leaves

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I think what you're talking about here is teflon.
    I heard about buying this teflon in sheets then cutting it to size. Slipping a sheet betwwen each leaf sound like a good idea, but I wouldn't know where to get it.
     
  8. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Actually it was stuff called Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, here's the website. It was actually a guy from CK5 named jekbrown. Looks linteresting, this may be a way to go.

    I don't suppose that anyone has tried EZ-Slide? The stuff looks pretty cool, this may be another option, I'd just be afraid that it would scrape off on the first trip.</font color>
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    My buddy is currently rebuilding his 52" factory rear springs. Each spring has a small oval hole in the end and the teflon slip pad snaps into place using these holes. He is also radiusing and smoothing his springs before giving them a good coat of Epoxy paint. His springs had over 100,000 miles on them and the teflon pads were all still intact, so they do last. He is going to a spring shop to buy replacements though.

    Rene
     
  10. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Yeah, the pads that snap into the holes would be cool, but I don't think that mine have the holes in them, and I really don't want to drill that many holes in springs, I can't imagine that they're made of very soft material. I will be smoothing and radiusing the ends of the springs for sure though, that's a good idea. </font color>
     
  11. FLASHLIGHT76

    FLASHLIGHT76 1/2 ton status

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    I'M RUNNING THE SAME SPRINGS BUT MY REARS ARE SOFTRIDE ALSO BUT THERE OFF OF A 1TON. I WAS DEBATING TURNING THE OVERLOADS UPSIDE DOWN BUT THEY ARE CURVED ALMOST AS MUCH AS THE SPRINGS. ALTHOUGH THEY'LL STUFF ALL THE WAY UP AS FAR AS THE SHOCK WILL LET THEM AND COME DOWN JUST AS MUCH. I DID NOTICE THE KEY TO THE FRONT WAS DISCONNECTING THE SWAY BAR. I CAN STILL CORNER THE SAME AND I CAN MAX OUT MY STEERING GEOMETRY AND MY FRONT SHOCKS. STILL HAVN'T BEEN ABLE TO GET ON A RAMP BUT ILL BET IT IS A PRESENTABLE SCORE. MY REARS ARE 56" INSTEAD OF 52", MAKES ALL THE DIFFERANCE. /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green">Yeah, my swaybar is long gone too, all it did was kill any flex and made the truck ride like crap. Way better without it. </font color>
     

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