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Trim molding end seal??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by kp texan, Sep 28, 2005.

  1. kp texan

    kp texan 1/2 ton status

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    I just recieved my Trim-gard side molding from LMC today for my '88 Blazer (my current stock trim looks awful). It states on the box that the chrome molding must be sealed at the cut ends with Trim-gard end seal in order for the warranty to be valid.

    Have any of you guys installed this molding and used (or not used)this "end seal" before? I'm wondering if there is something cheaper and easier to find than the Trim gard brand end seal. I searched the internet and the only TG end seal I could find was $35 for 2 oz.

    Thanks so much for the help,

    Wes
     
  2. dallassnowman

    dallassnowman 1/2 ton status

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    Which are you talking about??
     
  3. kp texan

    kp texan 1/2 ton status

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    Well I spoke to LMC about it and it's some sort of end sealing pen. This trim uses a clear PVC layer over the chrome layer and the end seal would be used to seal those layers on the ends that are cut to make them the proper length. This trim looks pretty much identical to the stock trim on the 81'-88' Blazer and I know my stock trim looks bad now because dirt and moisture has gotten in between those two layers. Do any of you guys have thoughts on what may be the best stuff to use on these cut ends?
     
  4. txfiremank5

    txfiremank5 1/2 ton status

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    My wifes old Jeep Grand Cherokee had a small spot where the clear coat was trying to peel. I used some of her clear fingernail polish and covered the spot really good, and along the edges as well. When we sold it you could still feel the polish on there, so it seemed to hold up over the years. It never peeled anymore.

    It may be worth a try. At the very worst, you may have to touch it up every once in a great while. It's certainly a lot cheaper to use. :D Not to mention it's clear, and it comes with it's own brush on applicator.. :p:

    By the way, don't forget to cut some slight angles in the trim at pivot points.

    IE: where the front fender meets the doors. If you cut it straight, then when the door is opened, you stand a chance of havinf the trim from the door contact the trim on the fender, and potentially binding. You can probably leave the fender trim straight, but put a slight angle in the door trim.

    If your current trim is stock, just look at it real close there, and I'm sure you'll see what I mean. My 97 K1500, and my 89 K5 both have those cut the same, and I'm sure it's for that reason.

    Good luck
     
  5. kp texan

    kp texan 1/2 ton status

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    Thats a good idea. I bet my moms gonna be pissed at me for using her finger nail polish on my Blazer but oh well, haha. Thanks for the help. You guys are awesome!

    -Wes
     

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