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Trouble starting/more timing help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Panther, Jun 30, 2003.

  1. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys. I got the truck back together after pulling the heads to do the valve seals and all the top end gaskets and am having problems.

    First it seems I had the distributor 180* off. I remembered where the rotor was when I took it apart, but forgot that I had to turn the crankshaft to adjust the valves. I pulled the valve cover, found #1 cylinder TDC of compression stroke to see where the rotor was. It was pointing toward the firewall at the passenger seat so I figured I was 180* off.

    I pulled the distributor last nite and switched it around. I marked which way the rotor was facing and then I put the cap on. I put the wires on according to the "1975 and up" diagram in my Chiltons. <font color="red">I assume that's the one I need to use since I dropped in the HEI.</font> That's question one. I'm also wondering whether I should even worry about the plug diagram and just worry about the correct firing order and getting the #1 plug at x* of advance.

    With the wires/cap on, I found that I could rotate the cap so that the #1 plug/terminal was barely at the rotor at TDC. The vacuum advance valve hit the manifold just shy of when the terminal lined up with the #1 TDC rotor position. I tried starting it like that hoping it would start up but not run well cause the timing would be way off.

    It started, but ran very rough. Basically it would only start and stay running at WOT. And even at that, it was barely running.

    The way I figure it, it needs at least 8* of advance (I don't want to start a "what advance is best" discussion here). My problem is, I can't even really get to 0* without banging the cap into the intake manifold. So I am wondering what I should do about that.

    I figure I can either rotate all the plugs counter-clockwise, or I can turn the oil pump so that I can put the distributor in correctly. <font color="red">Any opinions or other options??</font> /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    As far as the trouble starting/very rough running. <font color="red">Does that sound like a timing problem?</font> I have a leaky fuel line from the pump to the carb, but I sealed it up as a temporary fix, it doesn't seem to be leaking, and the carb is spitting gas into the mainfold fine. When it is trying to start and running, it's been backfiring up out of the carb some. I know I need to get the timing straightened out first, but honestly I hoping everyone thinks it is just the timing.

    Thanks!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It sounds like you're one tooth out on the distributor. You'll have to pull it and using a long flat screwdriver turn the oil pump driver a little...then drop in the distributor again one tooth over. It can be a real PITA to get it right. When everything is cool the distibutor base will seat nicely on the manifold...if it is up a bit it has not engaged the oil pump driver and you'll have to readjust that.

    It sounds like the timing is very retarded.

    Get the motor at TDC, note the direction the rotor rotates and set it so the rotor has not quite gotten to the number one electrode on the cap. That should have the timing ball-parked at a few degrees before TDC. Now follow the firing order stamped on the intake manifold.

    Rene
     
  3. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the quick reply Rene.

    I think the distributor is down all the way, but there's a good chance the oil pump is not lined up right anymore. I will check that tonite to make sure.

    [ QUOTE ]
    set it so the rotor has not quite gotten to the number one electrode on the cap. That should have the timing ball-parked at a few degrees before TDC.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Wait a minute, I thought what you describe would be a few degress after TDC (retarding the timing). I thought to get it before TDC (advanced), I would want the #1 terminal before the rotor at TDC (or rotate it counter clockwise).
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Wait a minute, I thought what you describe would be a few degress after TDC (retarding the timing). I thought to get it before TDC (advanced), I would want the #1 terminal before the rotor at TDC (or rotate it counter clockwise).

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You'd be right...it's so much easier to do than to describe/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

    Another way to do the same thing is to set the marks at 5 or 6 degrees before TDC and then set the rotor just where it makes contact with number one and go from there. For quick visual reference my vac advance was pointed towards the front passenger headlight roughly...a tooth off either way and it'll be pointing very elsewhere./forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    If the disty drops all the way down it is engaged with the oil pump driver, no question. It can only go one of two ways as it is a 180 degree slot. A large flat headed screwdriver works well to turn it just a little if needed.

    Rene
     
  5. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the help Rene. I moved the "disty" /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif over about two teeth. I think the oil pump slot was a little off and I "walked" it over, but I could have put the distributor down wrong. Anyway, I got the rotor facing the grill and then was able to advance the #1 plug past it, counter-clockwise. I turned it over and it started right up!!

    Thanks again for the help Rene.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Good job...glad I could help!

    Rene
     

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