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Truck Cab on 1985 Blazer Frame??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by derek2002, May 13, 2001.

  1. derek2002

    derek2002 1/2 ton status

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    I had a 1985 Blazer chassis for sale with 3/4 ton axles underneath it. Today, a guy bought just the axles from me and left me with a 1985 Blazer frame with 3/4 ton springs. The frame has been all blasted and repainted. It is a really nice GM blue color with brand new brake and gas lines. I also have a 1987 Chevy truck - front and rear 10 bolts with posi and 3.08 gears. It is a front end wreck without a box and has a good 350 FI. My original plan was to get a short box frame, buy a short box, and put together a really nice, clean truck with the undercarriage painted. What do you guys think of putting the cab on the blazer frame? Then I could fab up a box? What would you guys suggest? Chopping up a "bobbed" shortbox, or making a nice flatbed? Most of all... Would the cab even bolt up to the blazer frame?? Any comments or suggestions would be great! Thanks!

    Later,

    -Derek
    1986 3/4 Ton 4x4 - 9" Lift, 35's, TPI 350!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.4chevy.com>http://www.4chevy.com</A>
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I would cut and splice the bed I think. I don't care for flat beds personally, but, that is just my opinion and preference. I've done that before (shortened the back behind the rear tires) and it is not too hard. Just don’t try to “but weld” it. I had even considered doing something like this to my K30 where the bed is bobbed behind the tires and welded to the back of the cab (after shortening the frame) to make it like a 73-75 K5 full convert.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  3. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    To mount the truck cab on your Blazer frame you will need the rear cab mounts off the truck frame.I think you could just cut the rivets off to get them off the frame and then use the holes in the brackets to bolt them to the Blazer.Im tired of smoggin my 81 and Ive got my eye on a 73 truck down the street as a doner for a body

    Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
     
  4. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    To mount the truck cab on your Blazer frame you will need the rear cab mounts off the truck frame.I think you could just cut the rivets off to get them off the frame and then use the holes in the brackets to bolt them to the Blazer.Im tired of smoggin my 81 and Ive got my eye on a 73 truck down the street as a doner for a body.73 and older =no smog here in wonderful Cali.

    Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
     
  5. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    One of my buddies has a 72 blazer that he rolled and then put on a 72 regular cab. He made a flat bed for the thing and overall, it looks pretty good. He also lifted it 4" and 33" tires, so its one REALLY SHORT wheel base truck!!!! [​IMG]

    When In Doubt, Whip It Out!
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It can and has been done. Made FourWheeler cover truck a few years back. Looked killer! Guy put the cab on no problem. only have to fab up the rear cab suport. This guy did cut the front off the bed and shortend it. Made a Ultra Short bed but it looked almost factory he did such a nice job on it. Might even look for a step side bed. It would be a lot easier to cut down to size.
    Now personaly for a trail truck a stout custom flat bed is not a bad thing. I take more whacks in the back behind the rear tires than any other place. You could go psyco and build a exo cage and bobb the rear and get rid of the main problem with a K5...all that over hang. Then maybe buy one of those AUX tanks that fit in the back of a pickup under a tool box and use it as a main tank. Take some tinkering to make a gage work but that would get the tank up out of the way of harm. Loose a lot of weight along the way so the 10 bolt rear will take it for a while before giving it up.
    The 3/4 ton springs are going to wear you out though. Might want to do a shackle flip in the rear and put some EZ rides under the front. Heck you got a lot of the parts...might as well put them together and see what you come up with. Lots of stuff like that running around Tellico. They have what many call "Cab trucks" It's more or less a Hybrid. Full size frame 3/4-1 ton running gear with small truck cabs. They usualy put a exo cage on it for safety, bob the hell out of them and jam a junkyard big block in them. Thats about it. Real light and real Stout! No lift and 40's Nothing that can be hurt on the rocks. Not street legal but dirt cheap to build.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Sorry, forgot to say anything about the cab but looks like others took care of that. Anyway, like Grim said, those 3/4 ton springs will be rough so why not use the 1/2 tons from the pickup? My K30 is getting a short set of 1/2 ton springs with a bobbed tail (regardless of what I do for a body). The long springs limit the amount you can remove in the back but they do flex/ride better (in the 1/2 ton variety). I don’t care, with a 4” flip and a few tricks I will be able to get all the flex I want. Something to think about. Good luck.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     

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