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Tubbed K5s? who has bigger wheel tubs in rear? pics?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Oct 27, 2003.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I just removed my driver side wheel tub in the back. I then cut the opening from stock size to the frame. So the tub is now about 8" wider I guess when you look at it from inside. Can't go farther forward or back thanks to gas filler and floor front. I will go as big as I can. Yet another project here that is making me think maybe its time to buy a daily driver and just put the K5 for toying.
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    zakk was planning to slice his tubs and weld in sections from a set of tubs that I sent him, thus making the tubs several inches wider. But I don't know if that project got completed... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    My wheel wells have been enlarged a little... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
    [​IMG]
     
  4. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I'm building a half cab so I'm just going off that and using diamond plate to make new wheel wells. Mine are all the way to the frame. Way wider than I need but hey why not? Its fun climbing in and out of the truck through the wheel well. like a monster truck. Someday my K5 will look like that, might not be the too distant future.
     
  5. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    haha enlarged to the point of nonexistance /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Later
     
  6. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    When I swapped the body I narrowed the wheel wells by just over 3" just by overlapping the two pieces. After getting the wheles and tires on the other axle I saw how close the tire woudl be to the wheel well when flexed so I am going to grind them back apart and widen them back out towards the frame to gain the room for the tire to compress.
     
  7. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    My wheel wells have been enlarged a little... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sombody photochop some bedsides on that rig for Christ's Sake! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  8. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I think the need to "tub" the rear depends a lot on the axle width, wheel backspacing and tire width too....

    I run a set of generic white-spoke 8-lug wheels (U.S. Wheel?) a 14BFF with spacers to simulate "van-width", and a 16" wide Swamper.

    My truck flexes well (over 1000 RTI on a 23* ramp) and the tires don't rub on the rear wheelwells.... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    Depending on your situation, cutting may still be necessary but keep in mind there may be some other "tricks" you can employ to prevent interference. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif



    Gratuitous Self-Promotion follows:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    dito,

    over 1000 on 23* /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I do plan on using wheel tubs from summit eventually..it's the way to do it in my opinion /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    And my rear shock mounts are limiting me /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  10. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    there was an article in petersens awhile back where they put some wheel tubs from summit into a dodge ramcharger turned out pretty good but they did say that the were not very stout
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Greg, you've seen the tire and rim combo I run on my Jimmy...I have scrub marks up both the inner parts of the rear wheelwells. I'm talking about 6-8" up and scrubbed hard enough that it's taken the paint and undercoat off.

    I think if I tubbed the rear I'd get a fair bit more rear articulation...

    Rene
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Rene,

    Do you run any wheel spacers? What type of backspacing do you run?

    My suspicion is that there are combinations that help keep the tire carcass "centered" as it stuffs so that it neither rubs the OUTER lip or the INNER fenderwell........maybe. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    No spacers, 3 5/8" backspace on 15x10's. 57" F-150 rears though. Even with my much smaller 36's it was rubbing pretty hard up there.

    If the tires were spaced outboard any the tire would cave the outer sheet metal (if the wheel opening was stock)

    It does stuff the tires very deep and would prolly stuff em harder into the wheel well if it wasn't hitting the inner part. I will eventually tub mine and run shocks through the bed. 3" wider wells would probably do the trick I think.

    Rene
     
  14. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    My opinion on it is I am doing a lot of work to the K5 now and though I may not NEED the tub work, why not just do it? I won't be using Summit wheel tubs, they are just overpriced sheet metal, going to use some diamond plate for the top and sheet steel for the sides. All in all it will cost me nothing vs 60+ for cheap sheet metal. Removing the tubs wasn't fun, I did them both last night and i really screwed my wrists up last night. Hammer on metal that doesn't want to move really transfers shock to your hand. I should have realized when the hammer was getting really hard to swing it was my wrist giving out /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif. I could barely lift a half gallon of milk at work today. The plan for rear suspension is 56" springs with ORD flip and 55willy's rear shock mount with Bilstein 14" travels.
     
  15. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Along the lines of what your talking about, this is the way I would probably do it if I ever need to do it for my son's K5 if I wanted width but not additional height.

    1) Take 2 sets of wheel wells. Cut and graft together to make wider. A single set could be used with sheet metal extension but that’s much more work, and wheel wells are easily acquired, often for free. Plus, I have a spare set in my “pile”. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    2) Section floor and move mounting surface in toward the center. Form new mounting surface on outside near bed sides to match extended section of wheel wells.

    When done, everything still bolts up and looks like factory, just wider...
     
  16. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I remember seeing the "Georgia Boys" - Keith Deal's rig years ago with 35" tires and scrub marks! Now thats stuffing! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  17. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I ripped my stock wells to crap. between rust and spot welds it was gonna happen. Easiest way to get them out was pound with hammer near seam. It won't look stock but will make good seats and steps. I won't have a tailgate or cap so you will see them all the time. Just means I need to weld pretty good.
     
  18. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I like Russ' idea.....it fits my whole "stealth mode" philosophy on mods. Creates a lot of head scratching, and makes people wonder "Gee, How'd he do that?" /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    The only reason I'm avoiding it except as a last resort is that I don't want to have to "section" my rear seat and re-upholster it. Narrowing the rear seat by maybe 4 - 6" would still be pretty subtle....but kind of a lot of effort to go through until I really have NO other choice.....
     
  19. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Yeah I think its gonna look funny for people following me to see 38x12.50s with about a 20" wide wheel tub. Functionality not looks I guess.
     
  20. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    If anyones removing their tubs heres a hint for you, don't break all the spot welds, unbolt it, then jump on it so it falls through the wheelwell. You end up on your butt the hardway.
     

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