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Tubing notchers?

Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by sled_dog, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    So what are you guys using for tubing notchers? They taught us at school how to notch with nothing but a grinder and a file... but that sucks, haha. So I need to get a notcher. I want something that can go over 45* and uses ballbearings or something other than metal on metal bushings.

    This looks like a good one:
    http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=207&cat=90&page=1

    But doesn't state whether its bearings or bushings. I swore it used to say that is bearings.
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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  3. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    Chopsaw is much faster and much cheaper if you learn the angles (or get a cheat sheet like me).
    I bought a 175.00 notcher, but learned to chopsaw it before the notcher arrived, and I have never used the nother because of this. it just sits there collecting dust.
     
  4. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Im gonna try one of these...

    [​IMG]

    mark with these...

    [​IMG]

    combined with...

    [​IMG]

    and...

    [​IMG]

    notcher? we don't need no stinkin' notcher!!!

    j
     
  5. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    Perp, can you hook us up with your cheat sheet??
     
  6. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I use the pro tools hole saw tube notcher with the steel plate, not the aluminum like some sell. its more rigid. I have no problem notching quick and easy with mine. I use a 1/2 in capacity Millwaukie Magnum drill. I have found that fast rpm and heavy feed gets it done with best results.

    I tried cutting with slower rpm and cutting fluid and lighter feeds but all I found I got was alot of smoke, a long time to cut and alot more chattering. if I just get the cut started a bit then bear into it, no oil or anything it just hogs right through it. Im talking 1 3/4 HREW .120 tube too.

    I dont own a chop saw. for cutting tube I have a horizontal band saw. dont have to worry about where my sparks are going or catching something on fire, and a lot less bur to bur off. dont have to worry about burning myself right after I just cut it if I touch the end of the tube.
     
  7. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I've used the hole saw notchers but prefer the belt sander notchers. I'm not sure if they are commercially sold. The one I've used was built by a friend.

    Basically the idler roller is made in different sizes to mimic the tube being butted into. Put in the correct size idler and crowd the tube into it. Makes nice, tight, no gap notches at any angle. And it's FAST.

    The Mittler Bros Notchers are just about the ultimate in a non grinding type notcher. Bring your wallet though.
     
  8. boz42

    boz42 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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  9. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Eh, its allright- i have gotten used to my eyes for coping (probably why they still suck. but the pipemaster is OK. its pretty good for copes that are on a bend and at an angle. but for straight copes im gonna use my eyes and the notcher from tricktools.com
     
  10. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    I have a HF one that I got on sale for like $30. After tubing out 2 trucks its done, it uses the brass bushings, its all ate away so it isnt very accurate anymore.

    But I will be buying another one for that price as soon as they are on sale again.
    When it was newer it notched perfect notches.

    I to did the chop saw method (built half my rig with it) but after using a notcher I felt that I could get much more accurate notches in MUCH less time.
     
  11. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123969&highlight=chop+saw+notching
    One cheat sheet....got it off an old thread here on CK5. I tried it out on my nerf bars I built and it works pretty damn good, didn't even have to grind ANY for it to fit like a glove (other than trimming a little flash/burr edge which took all of two seconds). Only pain was trying to figure out how to mark the pipe with a straight line on opposite sides (180 degrees apart), because my chop saw only angles to one side you have to mark a center line on both sides of the pipe so you can make a cut on one side and "flip it over" (rotate) and cut the other side. with out the center line marks it is hard to get the "points" of the cope to line up exactly. I had 2" tube, so i found if i lay it on the ground and then put a short lenght of 1"x1" square tube on each side of it i could scribe a line using the top of the 1x1 as a guide. if you do both sides they are very close to 180 degrees apart. this is then your guide to line up the blade so it hits the same center line on both sides. It is really easy, I think I just made it sound harder than I should have. I can post a series of pics showing the steps tomorrow if you need. try to make 4 or 5 practice copes and you will magically get the hang of it and you will be much happier (and faster) than trying to use a PITA tube notcher. Chop saw blades are cheaper in the long run if you ask me too.
     
  12. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    Not to mention that NASTY flash that is left behind. That chit will fuk you up.
     
  13. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I'm on the look out for a used horizontal bandsaw myself. Tired of using the chop saw for anything.
     
  14. Bushwhacker

    Bushwhacker 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Heres what we got recently. A lot of the local race shops use this one. I was very skeptical till the guy let us try it out ourselves. Very easy and way faster than a hole saw style, even with grinding a little to fit them tight its way faster. Make a notch in about 5 seconds, just pull down, and POP!

    Clay

    IM002009.JPG
     
  15. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    question, it looks fixed, like it will only do a notch at ...well, that fixed an angle. how the heck does that thing work? am I just not looking at it long enough to figure it out or what? what if you need to offset the notch a bit? how steep of notch will it do if any? fill us in please
     
  16. NoReGrEtS

    NoReGrEtS 1/2 ton status

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    does it cruch the tube at all?
     
  17. blazinzuk

    blazinzuk Buzzbox voodoo Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    The low buck tools notcher is the way to go I have used the expensive hole saw notcher and the cheap one. That low buck deal is a good idea course you have to get different dies but a freind has one and hes done 4 or 5 cages over the years on one die and its still sharp
     
  18. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    The one I use is the 4" x 6" $180 one from HF. I got it used from a former employer. Let's just say it's well used. Still cuts straight.

    The LowBuck notcher is a nibbler. If you need to cope in a sharper angle you just nibble the inside a couple more times. I've not used one. For MIG fits I think it is a very viable option.
    For TIG fits the Van Sant/Mittler style or the belt sander style are a better idea.
     
  19. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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  20. Bushwhacker

    Bushwhacker 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The low buck we have will pop out a complete notch or you can nibble if you need more on one side or the other. How much it takes out depends how far you shove it in the holder. So far I like it very much. No notcher is perfect, I still may have to hand fit some joints using the sander, but its still faster than a hole saw, plus no hole saw cutters to wear out. It comes with 3 dies as well, I think you can notch from 1" to 2 1/4" roughly. When I get my desktop 'puter back up I will post a pic of a joint we made.


    Clay
     

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