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Turbocharger

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by lukers, Jan 11, 2001.

  1. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    Anyone ever turbocharged their small block. I was looking for info and model numbers and feedback about doing this.
    Thanks
    Lukers
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I haven't done it on a SB but do have some experiance with Turbo power plants (Supra's, Grand Nat's, Merkurs) but it's PRICY!!!!!!!. Your looking an easy $4k if you have to buy all new parts. They are available. Not really a bad way to gain power but there are several downsides. Extra mainatance is a biggie. While you can turbo with a Carb you really want to go FI for best results and your going to add a lot to the cost tright there. You have to drop compression conciderably to get big numbers and that tends to increase turbo lag and moves the torq curve farther up the band.
    That's where the problem really comes in with a off road truck. You want your torq down low and nice predictable smooth range in power. Turbo is going to be floor it wait for it to spool then it all comes on at once. Then as soon as you lift your back down to no power till you can get it spooled again. For a drag car or something you can keep the RPM's up and keep the turbo spooled that is fine but doesn't work for crawling. Super charger would be better but you would need to keep the compression up some to keep your low end torq but keep the boost down to moderate level's to keep down detonation to get that smooth predictable power band.
    Really for a gas truck used for trail riding I would say you would get you best results on either a stroker or a BB.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  3. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    Check out <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.turbocity.com>http://www.turbocity.com</A> They have generic do it youself turbo kits

    Luke
    84 K5
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Don't waste your time and money on a turbo. Put a supercharger on and be done. It will give you an easy to drive torque curve with lots of low end torque and you can probably do it for less than $2k. You also won't have to mess your exhaust all up to spin the impeller. The supercharger will give you every bit as much power as you would dare run with a turbo, but it will do it over the entire power band in a smooth fashion.

    A SC small block that is set up right will give you big block power, but when you aren't on the gas all the time, it will give you gas mileage that isn't much worse than a normally aspirated small block.

    Stock small blocks only have 8 to 8.5:1 compression, which is actually well suited to supercharging. You will probably have to switch to premium gas, though. This should be OK for 5-6 psi of boost. With more than that, you would be better off with a fuel injection system or at least an electronic ignition than can retard your timing relative to boost levels. If not FI, some carb tuning will be necessary and you may need a bigger fuel pump. What you really don't want is for the engine to run lean at high output, high rpm conditions.

    I still have never heard of a supercharged Blazer, but I would love to see it. I'll tell you what: everyone send me $20 and I'll be the guinea pig and work out all of the details for the rest of you. Then I'll post a tech article on this site on "Supercharging your K-5". What do you say? [​IMG]

    Seriously, though: does anyone here have a blower? (On their K-5. I have a blower on my car, but that is not the topic at hand)

    <font color=blue>Powered by a Goodwrench 4-bolt longblock [​IMG]
    240hp...for now.</font color=blue>
     
  5. Oblin Goblin

    Oblin Goblin 1/2 ton status

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    Gale Banks had/might again have a twin turbo setup for the small block. Go to www.getpower.com. Under high performance they have a picture of an 860 hp twin turbo 350.
     
  6. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    I have ruled out a supercharger because of price and availability. I am a junkyard man. Used parts. Nothing new here. As far as the stomp wait and romp. Will a variable bost solve this problem. And does a twin setup mellow the romp of the equation as well. I researched and twin turbo's from a 85-86 FORD T-bird turbocoupe will work. This is a project truck.
    I wanted to manufacture manifolds for turbo or non-turbo. I was thinking of an engine pipe I could just connect to the turbo section of the manifold.

    Thanks
    Lukers
     
  7. Phyte

    Phyte 1/2 ton status

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    Why do this? For the money just rebuild your 350 with 10:1 pistons, high lift cam(292 Erson?), ported/polished 202 heads, Vic jr. intake, holley 780DP and be done with it.. This is the setup I had in my 69 firebird that dyno'd at 416hp. The whole setup was about 2K.

    Phyte
     
  8. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    My motor is built and I am set on turbo's as an outside means of increasing power. I am going to shop until I find what I want and for the price I AM happy with. So I can be patient. The only item I will need to modify now is the exhaust manifold. I wanted to run my motor (stock) for the break-in and later upgrade it to twin turbo's.
    I am looking for low-end torque and better mileage on the highway. I don't intend on stomping and romping. Will a turbo provide these characteristics? I am running an RV cam. 194 valves on 76 cc heads. 9.5:1 pistons .030 350.
     
  9. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    The exhaust gas has to go through the turbo in or order to spin it, so you would pretty much be forced to switch to a new manifold when you went turbo. All of the exhaust has to pass through it, so give up on ideas of a little side pipe or something. If you are looking for low-end torque and better highway mileage, a turbo will provide the OPPOSITE of those characteristics. Go test drive a GT3000 or GN or something and see how it feels. You stomp it, it starts pulling, you hear a noise, then whoosh! it starts pulling hard. Let up on the throttle and you have to wait to build up the boost again. For rockcrawling, this would be awful. For sand dunes, it would probably work out pretty good.

    The turbo creates boost with a spinning impeller. The faster it spins, the more air it can move. The spinning is created by the exhaust gases passing through the other chamber of the turbo. The more exhaust gas you send through, the faster it will spin. Also, the more spooling you are getting, the more of an exhaust restriction the turbo has to be. With a turbo from a smaller engine, you will spin it too fast and the wastegate will always be open. This will decrease the lag, but it will also be a bigger restriction. If you're going to use a turbo from a smaller car, you may want to use one on each side as twin turbos. With the hot exhaust gases and the very high rpm operation, turbo bearings don't last very long as it is.

    Doing a setup like this is not a simple "grab a turbo and bolt it on" operation. You have to DESIGN it all to work as a system. You have to know how many CFM's your engine is moving, how much air is needed to create X amount of boost, the rpm that the turbo will be spinning, how much fuel needs to be delivered etc. By trial and error, you are likely to detonate and maybe ruin the engine that you've already invested in. The first rule of turbos is that you shouldn't have a very high compression ratio. You're already at 9.5, which means you won't be able to run much boost anyway, unless you're going to build in an intercooler and run race gas. You have to choose a direction: design a turbo engine or design an "all-engine" power solution. Either way, you're gonna have to do more work on the engine. Sorry, bro.

    If you're not good at powertrain engineering and you're convinced that you can make a junkyard turbo work for you, at least follow the design of someone else who has already done it. You also might consider getting a supercharger from a thunderchicken or GM 3800SC. The mid-90's Bonneville's, Riviera's and some other Buicks used an Eaton 70 or 72, but a better unit is found on the 97-current GTP and Regal GS. They can run 15psi of boost on a 3.8L revving 6000 without exceeding their rated rpm. That should be plenty of air for getting some boost on a small block.

    Do you have EFI? You would really be better off in this endeavor to have a knock sensor to retard your timing in order to avoid disaster.

    I think that the only real power solution for the price that you are thinking of is NOS. You can add 100hp to your truck for about $300. HOWEVER, this is also a place where you have to know what you are doing, or you will blow your whole engine sky high.

    <font color=blue>Powered by a Goodwrench 4-bolt longblock [​IMG]
    240hp...for now.</font color=blue>
     
  10. Josh

    Josh Registered Member

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    Something else you should probably be aware if is you will probably need a new cam. You cannot very well run a cam with ANY overlap between the intake and exhaust. This is important because you will blow the boost pressure right out of the engine. Usually they favor the exhaust side - you are cramming in more air in a shorter time so you will need more time/lift to exhale all of that air.


    Honestly though do you want something added on to your truck that is going to increase the complexity and decrease the durability/drivability in a 4X4?? The first time you soak those exhaust manifolds in a stream or mud hole you will probably shatter them.


    Just my $.02

    Josh
     
  11. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    It's been a fun ride in turbo land and I am deciding in a non-turbo setup now. That's why you guys are great. I thought (through inexperience) that I could find power for my truck in turbo land. I learned that not all power comes at the right price. Thanks everyone for saving me embarresment later on down the road. Not to mention money. I learned stuff along the way. Maybe later on on my dream chevelle.
    Lukers
     
  12. bangin_my_k5

    bangin_my_k5 Registered Member

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    Ok you desided not to go with turbo power what are you gona run. My little brother wrecker his 97 Supra twin turbo last night (hit a wet part in the road spun 180 and hit a tree) well i told him that the insurance wouldn't give him any money for the upgraded turbo's he had on it so we spent saturday night replacing them with the stockers. My dad told him that he's getting a supercharged 442. so I'm gettin the turbos for my 427 lucky me i built the motor for either a blower or turbo when i had it in my camaro 7:1 compression. I had a guy down at (Maxie's) my machine shop build me a custom intake dual throttle body injection. i also grabed the blow off valves, intermediate pipes, intercooler, and Apexi air fuel meter. So I'm goin over to maxies thursday to pick up my new turbo charged fuel injected fogged K5. I'll have new pictures of motor, and truck as soon as my Digital camera gets back from (sony).

    break em if you can
     
  13. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    Looks like I go with a 355 for now. Nothing special (RV caam is all) I will have to wait for another 350 to come along then I will be setting up a 383 stroker. Any ideas for peping up a 250 in-line 6?
    Lukers
     
  14. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Uhhh if you end up with that supra some how I'll gladly pay $1,000 for the engine and drive train if there is no damage. I would want all the engine electrical (all FI Harness and computer) and the tranny if it's a 6 speed. Serious about it...I'm in Atlanta and would make a weekend run to come get it.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  15. bangin_my_k5

    bangin_my_k5 Registered Member

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    I'll have to see what the insurance does with it. My little brother said that sounds good if the insurance won't give him any money for it. When my Camaro got smacked in the rear the insurance company said they would only give me $5000 for it even thought i spent $13,000 on the motor $3500 on tranny and the roll cage was about $1000 now if i'm correct thats a lot more than $5000 so i just kept the car yanked the motor tranny seats gauges 5-point belts, and more and junked the body i got $2500 just for the body from a junk yard (the 10 point roll cage was still in it).But I'll let you know as soon as I get word.

    break em if you can
     
  16. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Lukers, check out <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cliffordperformance.com/>http://www.cliffordperformance.com/</A> for some ideas on how to pep up that 250 inline 6. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  17. lukers

    lukers Registered Member

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    Great site. Thanks
    Lukers
     
  18. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    bangin_my_k5,

    Dude, if this thing works right, I'll just have to pretend not to be jealous [​IMG]

    <font color=blue>Dan Quayle (extending his hand during a campaign stop) "I'm Dan Quayle. Who are you?"
    Woman: "I'm your Secret Service Agent"</font color=blue>
     
  19. turbo

    turbo 1/2 ton status

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    It can be done.
    The turbo is cheep.
    A 300ZX 84-87 is a garret T3 designed for a 3 liter engine.
    Run one on each side of a 5.7 liter and you are right in the ball park.
    They run about $60 at pull u partsd but avoid 84 as they do not have engine collant cooling just oil circ cooling.

    Waste gate is built in.

    The only real trick is oio lines and returns (must be big and straight) and the intake flow.

    Nothinbg makes up for high altitude running like a turbocharger.

    Also it is critical that you run low 8 or high 7 CR any higher and you cannot use the boost.

    You will also get increased fuel milage as you are utilizing energy dumped out tailpipe as heat and noise.
     

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