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TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: "TURBO"

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Corey-88K5, Jan 9, 2001.

  1. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Ok guys, don't hate me. I've had to put another 700 in my truck. Its a 2wd version I bought about 9mo earlier, and has been sitting in the shed. Well, Due to money, I've got to put that one in. I'm getting ready to pull the 4wd one out of the truck, take it and the 2wd one to the trans shop. They said they would swap all the parts for $150. I just need to find out how the heck to adjust the TV Cable. I looked through my chilton's and I can't get the answer I"m looking for. I also searched this site, and didn't find the exact answer either. It looks like "Turbo" knows his stuff, but if any of you have the correct answer, that would be GREAT!

    Thanks,

    Corey
    88K5

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  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Got this from: http://home.twcny.rr.com/mcss/drivetrain.html "GM has a number of automatic transmissions that, instead of having a vacuum modulator to sense engine load, use a Throttle Valve Cable, attached to the throttle linkage. When the throttle is depressed, the cable is "pulled" progressively with throttle position. In addition to providing forced downshifts (kickdown), and progressively later (higher speed) upshifts at higher throttle settings, the throttle valve also adjusts main line pressure in the transmission. Operating a transmission with the TV cable out of adjustment, can, not only produce early, or late upshifts, but incorrect line pressure, as well. What this means, in simple terms, is that TV pressure that is too low, will produce main line pressure that is also too low, and will eventually "burn" the transmission clutches.

    Before a transmission is test driven (after installation) a preliminary adjustment must be made, and then "fine tuned" during the test drive. Adjust the cable so that it will be pulled all the way, when the throttle is simultaneously opened all of the way (with the engine turned off, of course). Make sure that the cable returns (with no binding) when the throttle is released. This preliminary adjustment will frequently be too "high", and the throttle pressure will have to be reduced, to attain proper shift points. I prefer to start with an adjustment that is "too high", and then work down, rather than "too low" and work up.

    How to adjust your Throttle Cable
    To raise throttle pressure (raise shift points, and makes "kickdown" more responsive) move the cable housing towards the firewall (away from the throttle linkage), as you simultaneously depress the 'D' shaped button on the cable housing. Move the cable housing adjustment a small amount at a time (one "click"); a small adjustment can often make a world of difference. Naturally, to lower the pressure (lower shift points, and make "kickdown" less sensitive) move the cable housing towards the throttle linkage."

    Article made no specific example of the 700-R4 vs the 200-4r, but both are GM OD units that came out about the same time, and have similar functions, so it should work fine.




    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  3. Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Corey,
    I would reccomend you look at the site <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.700r4.com>http://www.700r4.com</A> and they have a picture and write up on the TV cable adjustment. I did my last one just like that and it is working fine. The do it with the pan off to make sure it is going through its full range of motion.

    [​IMG]<font color=red>BigBurb[​IMG]
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  4. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Thanks guys,

    Well here is the update, the damn thing took almost 5 hours to get out. Broke a exhaust bolt, had to cut a hanger U-bolt & the exhaust. This sucks! I think next time I'm just paying a trans shop to pull it.

    Well, I think this is going to end up costing ALOT!

    Corey
    88K5

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  5. Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Damn Corey, I did both of my trannies alone, without a lift or tranny jack and it took me less time than that !! I have a 12" lift too, so I had to use my floor jack with a homemade tranny holdiing thingy on it and I put it in my kids wagon so it would be high enough !! Hang in there, don't pay someone for the experience to learn something new and to do it yourself. You can always e-mail one of us, I check my e-mail1 or 2 times a day. I put the tranny and adapter in by itself so the tranny bolts, dipstick tube were easier to get to and then I put the crossmember in and then the transfer. If you put a jack or some kind of lift on the rear of the motor, you shouldn't have to take off the distributor cuz the engine will be supported.

    [​IMG]<font color=red>BigBurb[​IMG]
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  6. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Hey BigBurb, my kids RADIO FLYER is about the best tool I have. As far as adjusting the TV cable. Slack it off all the way and tighten it in small incriments til it feels good to you. My 700r4 used to SLAM into gear. My pal adjusted it for me and now it shifts real smoothly.Its kind of a slow process, be patient.

    creepin' and crawlin'

    Jim
     
  7. OFFRDK5

    OFFRDK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Somebody just happen to know how to adjust the TV cable on a 6.2 Diesel with a 700r4 tranny? I think that is what is frying mine and making the shift feel like its being thrown into gear.

    SK-15
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  8. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: TV Cable Adjustment on a 700 & ATTN: \"TURBO\"

    Thanks guys,

    Well, here is the update. One of the reason's it took me 5hrs to get it out was I did a lot of other work with it. Pulled the distributor, radiator, belts, P/S pump, and did the trans the hard way. Plus it took some figuring. I did learn, it only took about 1hr to get it back in including the T-case. But, I forgot to put in the Exhaust, so the next day I had to repull the crossmember to put in the exhaust.

    Well its all back in, got the new cooler, drainplug & external filter mounted. It all looks good. The only problem I've ran into sofar is when I pulled the distributor, I guess... I um... spun the flywheel afterwards... I had it all buttoned up, and went to start it. The only thing it did was blow smoke through the TB... Well its back to the drawing board. Trying to find TDC is a trick on these heads. The spark plugs go straight in, and Don't leave much for a view. I'm currently sticking in a zip tie to feel for the piston head. When I think its atleast near the top, I put in the plug, set the dist. and give it a try. Right now I think its about 180 off. I'm going to see about towing it home tonight to finish it there. So far the cost of the shop & hoist has been just over $100. The shop is closed Sundays & Mondays MY DAYS OFF! Ugh. Well thanks guys. I talked to the trans shop that swapped the parts for me. They will set my cable for me if I want. Plus they told me I had 2 burnt up clutches, and the pump was chewing its self up. Kind of glad I did it when I did. Although it WAS running and driving before...

    Thanks,

    Corey
    88K5

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