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two piece rear driveshaft

Discussion in '1936-Present Suburban' started by 77fixer, Oct 29, 2002.

  1. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    Someone has asked this before but I can't find the post. What are the thoughts on using a 2 piece rear shaft with the carrier bearing to make the rear shaft less of a liability.

    Brett /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  2. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

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    That was me. The general idea was that it would be great because you could shim your pinion up a lot more and really not have too much pinion angle because it would be spread over 3 u-joints instead of 2. The only problem I saw was that there's more to break now. I'm still thinking about trying this. I have a complete carrier bearing assembly out of a '78 3/4 ton pick up. I think my original post was in the 73-87 forum or the garage. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  3. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    yeah the carrier bearing is a cool idea! i'm almost thinking of a divorced t-case to make both shafts the same.
     
  4. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

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    RaisedK5 has the doubler kit in his K5. Now there's only a 3/4" differance between his front and rear shafts.
     
  5. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    Now that's an idea. Adjust the length of the fr rear shaft so that the rr rear shaft and the front driveshaft are the same. Can I use a CV on the output side of the carrier bearing?
     
  6. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know where you can put the carrier bearing.
     
  7. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    The Sub I'm pulling it out of has a crossmember that the bearing mounts to.

    Brett /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  8. Ddragggon

    Ddragggon 1/2 ton status

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    almost all stock long bed trucks and suburbans (2wd) came with a 2 piece rear driveshaft. a lot of 4x4's came with a 2 piece driveshaft too. this was done to eliminate teh slipyolk on the back of the transmission, by putting the slip joint at the carrier bearing. this unfortunately would make putting a CV joint there impossible, as the 2 piece shaft needs to be able to contract and expand with the roadways bumps. ( unless you want to put the slipjoint in the middle of the shaft, which could be construed as silly)

    -Rich
     
  9. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    I'll have to look more closely at the shaft under my parts Sub when I get home tomorrow. It is a 2wd, but what I was thinking was to make the front and rear shafts the same and making the difference up in the forward portion of the rear shaft. Will the carrier bearing part take a flange on each side?

    Brett /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  10. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    The support bearing is pressed onto a shoulder at the base of the splined end.

    Fords (79 F250 shortbox crewcab 4x4 is my example) use a two piece rear shaft with a yoke on the end instead of a slip-spline. The yoke unbolts from the shaft so you can replace the support bearing.

    Not that you have to get a Ford shaft, but maybe you could apply the same engineering and install a CV yoke or flange /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  11. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I have a 'wheeling buddy with a longbed that used a 2 piece with a CV on the rear half so he could tip the pinion way up. It works just fine. I think Tom Wood's shop did it. No reason it wouldn't work in a 'burb. I'm considering a trail shaft and a highway shaft. Since I still have the 208 in there it only takes 4 bolts to change a driveshaft out so I may find some junk and build a heavy wall trail shaft. I'll see, I don't really need the 'burb to do hard trails but it doesn't take much of a rock to smash the driveshaft and make a miserable ride home.
     

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