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U-bolt torque and removable top glass

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by newyorkin, May 24, 2001.

  1. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Does anyone know the torque specs on the rear ubolts? I have one cracked leaf on one side, and I'm wondering if that's from being over tightened. I just tightened down the good side 5 days ago (they were actually loose, and the bolts were dangling), but had the tires off yesterday and noticed some more space between leafs around the bolts I tightened (bulge-looking). I'm now wondering if they don't need to be super-tight to allow for some movement between leafs, but I don't want to loosen them, cause the truck feels so tight now that I cranked em down.
    Here's the cracked leaf <A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com/crackkills.htm>http://k5.8m.com/crackkills.htm</A>. Does this require immediate attention?

    Also, I'm picking up a top from an '83 that I'm going to cut up into a soft top frame. It has the sliding glass while my top has the one-piece single window. I'd like to swap the glass. Is this complicated? My top is black, and the one I'm getting is white and cracked, so I want to transplant the nice glass into the good top.

    Ratch
    **Hmmm. Land or Mall? Land or Mall? Let's see. Lotsa SUV's around here... Let's build a mall.**
     
  2. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    well i can help u on removing the glass, but not putting it back in, anyways, taking it out will require 2-3 flat head screw drivers, 1st look on the bottom side of the gasket, near the middle, the should be a metal piece, take the scre driver and pry that off, then pull that rubber out. that takes the pressure off the window, then take the 1st screw driver and start in the top corner and pry it open then hold it in place and then use the 2nd screwdriver and pry w/ both, if the top corner of the window doesnt pop out of the gasket then use the 3rd screw driver, once that corner pops out it only requires 1 screwdriver to finish
    as for putting it in, i guess it would just be the opposite of taking it out.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://confederate9.coloradok5.com/>http://confederate9.coloradok5.com/</A>
    <font color=red>K5: Because size DOES matter</font color=red>
    [image]http://www.off-road.com/chevy/chevygmc.gif[/image]
     
  3. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    150 ft lbs for back u-bolt nuts. You should be allright for a while since the middle leaf broke. I had a 78 k10 with a busted rear leaf and drove it everyday. But put new springs on top of your project list.
     
  4. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    For the glass, you may need to order new locking strips if the old ones get messed up or fall apart because of age. You'll need it or the glass won't stay in once you put it back in. To install the glass, clean the seals of all the old sealant, then run the seal all the way around the glass. Then on the lip groove (the part that fits around the lip of the top) run a piece of plastic coated clothes lines (about 3/16 to 1/4" in diameter) into the groove all the way around the perimeter and have it cross by about an inch in the bottom portion. Get a spray bottle with a mixture of dishwashing detergent (hand washing not machine) and water. It will help get the seal up and over the lip as you install the window. Try to get the bottom portion of the seal lip started into the window opening. Have a friend hold the window on the outside while pressing the window into place. Then spray an area of the lip with the soapy spray and start pulling on the cord. You may have to wiggle the cord a bit to get it to move along and as you get towards the end, you will have to use plenty of spray solution. Once the window is in place, let it dry for a while then run a bead of sealant around the outside (top and window junctions of the seal) then install the locking strip.
    Takes some practice and patience.
     
  5. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Thanks for the help, all.

    I don't think I understand the cord part though. Do I use it to pull the rubber gasket into place? I.E. have someone push the window out from the inside, I pull the string around it from the outside, and as the string pulls down the rubber edge, let it come back up around the top lip as the string releases it?

    Also, for the springs; I don't know how much lift the PO put in this truck. Does anyone know the stock axle-to-frame-at-rest distance I can measure up front, to determine the lift and springs required to keep the lift consistent in the rear? It has blocks in the rear now, but I think it also has lifted springs. I also want to put lift springs in (since I have to change them) and dump the blocks.

    Thanks again for the help!

    Ratch
    **Hmmm. Land or Mall? Land or Mall? Let's see. Lotsa SUV's around here... Let's build a mall.**
     

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