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U-Joints, Dana 44, Dana 60, Spindles

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MilpitasK5, Apr 3, 2002.

  1. MilpitasK5

    MilpitasK5 1/2 ton status

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    Can someone give me a lesson on spindles and u-joints? I think I may need to change my U-joints on the passenger and possibly the driver side as well. How do I tell what I have as far as Danas go? I see a lot of postings about this stuff but it's never clear because I think Danas are the spindles but I'm not positive.
    Any tips on changing the U-joints?
    All your help is appreciated (including the replies in the past)!
    Thanks,
    Chris
    86' K5
    3" lift on 33s (hopefully going bigger soon!)
    some rust to work on too...
     
  2. spaceboy

    spaceboy 1/2 ton status

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    Look on the lower right hand side of the differential. It will say 40F or 60F.
     
  3. spaceboy

    spaceboy 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry I meant 44F not 40F.
     
  4. MilpitasK5

    MilpitasK5 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds simple enough! So I was right? Danas are the spindles?

    Anyone got tips on U-joint replacement?

    Thanks,
    Chris
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Dana's are not spindles. Dana is a company that manufactures drivetrain parts. They supplied various manufacturers with complete differentials. They built several different model's of differential like the Dana 30 and Dana 35 commonly found under new Jeeps.

    Chevy used Dana 44 front ends for a number of years in the half and 3/4 ton 4x4's they built. In 78 or so the began using their own front diferential which is known as a 10 bolt front end. Chevy also used the Dana 60 front end in the one ton 4x4's built from 77 to 91.

    There is an axle identification chart that can be found from the home page...

    BTW spaceboy, my D44 front has no "44" stamped on it anywhere...

    Rene
     
  6. MilpitasK5

    MilpitasK5 1/2 ton status

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    Ah... I see. Off I go to the Dana site then. Thanks for the information!
    Chris
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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  8. MilpitasK5

    MilpitasK5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Rene!
     
  9. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    My advice would be to get a shop manual and read it over a few times. You'll have to completely remove the outers to get to where you can slide the shafts out and replace the u-joint. You need a special socket for the bearing nuts and some snap-ring pliers, along with usual sockets to remove the spindle. Then you slide the shaft out, swap the joint, and do everything you just did backwards /forums/images/icons/smile.gif.
     
  10. MilpitasK5

    MilpitasK5 1/2 ton status

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    Okay. I learned how to get into the hub last summer and if that's the hardest part of getting the shafts out, I should be okay. I'm definitely planning on getting a shop manual. Are you talking about the ones from the dealer? I have the Chilton but I think it sucks... Thanks for your input.
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the hardest part is removing the spindle from the knuckle
    the next hardest part is removing an OEM u joint from the axle shaft
    upon reassembly coat the knuckle/spindle mating surface with lots of anti-sieze so that next time it comes off with a few light taps
     

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