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U- JOINTs

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Tims72, Jan 21, 2002.

  1. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Location:
    Lodi, Ca.
    Hey guys, I am finally back to the homeland. So of course right to work on my project. 72 blazer 4' lift, shackle in the front and blocks in the rear. Still with the stock axle and drive shaft. The first thing I am trying to take care of is stopping from going through my u-joints so quick. I go through them about every 2k-3k miles. I took my blazer to a driveline place today. The guy there said that the first gens are notorious for this problem because they came stock with the same size running gear as the ford pinto and the Toyota sr-5. He said the only way to stop this problem was to change the transmission yoke, differential yoke, and the drive shaft to 1 ton equipment. He said it would cost around $700. I need info from you guys if you think he is full of it and they are another less expensive way to do it. I have already checked if the yokes on the shaft are lined up correctly and the guy and the shop said the angle wasn't that bad. I am going to another driveline place in the morning to get a second opinion. I just though that you guys would have some the best advice in this situation. Thanks for your help.
    Tim
     
  2. yellowmoon

    yellowmoon Registered Member

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    Location:
    Modesto Ca.
    I went one ton on the front u-joint on the back drive line. Has taken care of my problem so far. I got a little more drive line shake now.
    Rob big yellow 72 blazer 4 inch lift 35 inch tires
     
  3. yellowmoon

    yellowmoon Registered Member

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    Location:
    Modesto Ca.
    see pic of my blazer
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/yellowmoon72>http://community.webshots.com/user/yellowmoon72</a>
     
  4. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Location:
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    Well I went and got a second opinion. This guy told me I didn't have to go through all of that trouble. My differential was loose and my driveline was about 2 inches to short after. The diff just had to be opened up and tightened. The lengthening of the drive shaft and the new Spicer non-greasable joints ended up being about $250. So over all $300 is much better than the $700 the other guy wanted. When I get more time to do some serious wheeling I will probably change to the one-ton parts. For now this will do. It rides much smoother now. Thanks for your help.

    Tim
     

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