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U-joints?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MTBLAZER89, Apr 18, 2003.

  1. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Can I use the CTM U-joints on the home page in a 10 bolt front end? Their home page only has Dana 60, 44. Thanks

    -Brian
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    The Dana 44 and 10 bolt u-joints are the same if I recall correctly.
     
  3. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I just want to be sure the are kinda spendy U-joints..
     
  4. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    i believe so too.
     
  5. BurbLover

    BurbLover 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldn't recommend CTM joints. They are costly & break just like the rest. My buddy has broken several on the D44, and even D60 ones. Anyway, I use the CarQuest Gold series and they seem to hold up just fine, without breaking my bank account /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

    /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    The D44 and 10 bolt joints are the same. Here is my take on the CTM joints:

    If you run them in stock axles you will have to have them modified to accept full circle snap rings. Two, if you run them in the chromo axles you most likely won't break the joint or the axle, and you will break something else. If you are running a good set of hubs, CTM, and chromo axles then you have three things left to break.

    1. Locker
    2. Ring & Pinion
    3. Driveshaft

    All of these are expensive, and the first 2 are something that usually can't be fixed on the trail so you end up with 2wd. I would much rather break an axle or joint. They are a PITA to replace, but not to hard to replace and they are a hell of alot cheaper.

    Personally I am going to start running Chromo inner axles, a good quality ujoint (Spicer 760) and a stock stub shaft. This way I don't have to worry about trying to fish out pieces of the inner axleshaft, and the fix is pretty straight forward. Strong, but yet weak enough to not destroy the R&P & locker.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    There is only one problem with your reasoning. In many cases, that's how it works. However, the shock load from the breakage alone can bust some of the tough stuff you mentioned. It's not uncommon for a stub to break and take out spindle, bearing hub, and sometimes even a knuckle. Could even damage the inner shaft is the stub breaks at or near the ears. I've also heard several times where a locker get's broken by a stub shaft breaking...

    I'm building mine to not break if possible, though I'll not caugh up for a CTM any time soon (knock on wood). Hopefully, with 1 ton gear and light(er) weight, I can stretch the "mean time between failures" to a point where it does not matter (much) or at least offsets the troubles and expense...
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Yep, you are correct. I know that my locker can get toasted from a stub breaking. But I would rather take the chance at the locker not breaking when a stub goes, then making the locker weak point in the front axle.

    As for the spindle and knuckle, I am aware that they can get taken out, but it is a roll of the dice. I would rather take out a spindle then take out an R&P.

    I know I can build a 1/2 ton front not to break. It is going to break sometime, somewhere. I know that. So I want to reduce the breakage to the stuff that is easier to fix then the stuff that is hard to fix, or unreparable on the trail. If I had a D60 like yourself, I would be building not to break, as that is alot more possible then it is with my 10 bolt. One day when I find a 60 and I have some cash I will pick one up, but for now I have to run the 10.
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Fair enough, it's a decision you have to make and you have good reasons for your choice. I just wanted to elaborate for other readers... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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