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up grade brakes or change into a 1 ton?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by har, Aug 10, 2004.

  1. har

    har Registered Member

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    i just got some new tires 35 boggers should i get bigger brakes cuz i will be burnin threw my brakes pretty fast, but with bigger tires i will be breaking my axles wat should i do frist? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. dhdescender

    dhdescender 1/2 ton status

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    Do you mean axle as in Diff, or axle as in axle shaft?

    If you upgrade the diff, you get better brakes right off the bat.
     
  3. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I voted for brakes...but I don't mean bigger rotors and such...just make sure they are in good shape with new pads (some nice carbon/metalic pads like PerformanceFriction). Then just drive it. If you wheel it in the rocks you might want to think about upgrading the rear axle to a 14B but the front will do fine.
     
  4. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Go with 3/4 running gear, the much larger 2.5" rear drums make a world of a difference. I have my 3/4 brakes in good shape with all steel line and good quality shoes/pads...I can stop on a dime, even with 35" boggers.
     
  5. har

    har Registered Member

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    ya when i was 4x4in doing some hill climbs when i was comin down of this moutain my breaks keeped cuttin out and the only way they would come back if i pumped them. i run the same tire bogger 35,1250. ne clue why they would be doin that and i do got some not bad brakes on and i got over half left on them
     
  6. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    35x12.50 bogger? I was only aware of the 35x14.50 and the 35x16 that I have. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  7. har

    har Registered Member

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    hmmm maybe i am wrong i have never checked when i got them and when i did get them i ask for something like a 35x12.50. when u go 4x4 wheelin wat do u run ur pressure of ur tires at cuz i always run them at normal at 25 lbs
     
  8. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    when u go 4x4 wheelin

    [/ QUOTE ]Me? /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

    I never aired down when I went out, takes too much time and I have no compressor onboard. i don't wheel the K5 hardly anymore unless I have to to pull out something else. The reason why is because the boggers are wrapped around $1700 rims. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif More wheeling is in it's future though, or planned future because I should have a new home for the rims soon.
     
  9. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    More wheeling is in it's future though

    [/ QUOTE ]

    YAY!
     
  10. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I'll echo the 3/4t axle comments. And counter the Performance Friction pad recommendation with either Raybestos BruteStops or Wilwood D compounds. Either of the latter will have better cold stopping power than the PF pads. If all you do is hwy drive it and sometimes have a heavy load in/behind it, then the PF pads would be a better choice.
     
  11. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't noticed any cold stoping problems with my Performance Friction carbon/metalic pads...I thought that was just with their ceramic. I always used to use Brute Stops (still what I have on my K5) but Kragen started being /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif with the lifetime replacement...AutoZone sells the PFC's and will still take them back if just worn out (and they don't sell Raybestos).

    Do you really think the brute stops (or wilwoods) are worth an extra $40+ each brake job?
     

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