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"update"how many have tryed welding there own drive shaft

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by highrider_44s, Apr 17, 2005.

  1. highrider_44s

    highrider_44s 1/2 ton status

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    i was told by a friend that you could bench weld a drive shaft and still get it preaty straight. He said that you can lay it on a flat surface and rock it back and forth on the ears to see if they are lined up then measure both sides to make sure it's the same length then weld her up what do you guys think has anybody else tryed this. :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2005
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i have messed with my own front driveshaft, i had 3 good ones now i have 1. its still not perfectly straight. the only one i got straight i twisted the tube the first time out.

    if your just lengthing it or shortening it, cut the middle and use some angle iron to lay it in, this is a very easy way to get it straight.

    that said, from now on, im leaving my driveline cures to the experts. way to many headaches not getting them straight.
     
  3. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I've "sleeved" two front driveshafts and have had decent luck. I don't notice any more vibrations than what the tires do from being out of round. I run drive slugs so everything spins all the time. Never had it faster than 62mph though.
     
  4. ou8mud2

    ou8mud2 Banned

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    i cut both of my driveshafts in half then bought some steel pipe with the I.D. that was the same as the O.D. of the shafts. the old shafts needed to be wire brushed and the balancing weights removed. then i measured for my new lengths, cut the new pipe to correct length and slipped the pieces in. i tacked it together, checked for fit, then finished the welds. this was done for my strickly off road vehicle. i have taken it down the road and haven't had any probablems. plus the tubes will take more abuse from rocks. currently running a stock tbi 454/205/4.56's/10bf/14br/locked/w 38'5's. nothings broke and it gets run hard. good luck
     
  5. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    You can use things such as angle iron or Channel to help you get it straight for tacking as well. Just lay the tubes in the channel. Make sure you get a good straight piece of channel first though. You don't need more than a couple foot.
     
  6. highrider_44s

    highrider_44s 1/2 ton status

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    well thanks guys i think i'll give her a go whats the worst that could happed right :surepal:
     
  7. TWISTEDJACK

    TWISTEDJACK 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have built one for my truck and it didn't vibrate. Just take your time to make sure you have it as close as possible and then weld it on opposite sides to keep heat distortion to a minimum.
     
  8. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Kidjethro.
     
  9. highrider_44s

    highrider_44s 1/2 ton status

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    well the results are in and so far so good i did the rear first. I started by grinding down the old weld till it was flat with the tube. Then i cut a file folder with a ruler legthways and about 5"-6" wide to use as a straight edge on the tube wraped that around the tube marked it and then cut the end off with a cutoff wheel. Almost cut too deep :doah: Did the same to cut the other shaft to length. Laid it all out on a flat surface on the ears and rocked it a bit to see if the ears were in faze. Then tacked the one side roled it over and checked the other side. Measured from ear to ear on both sides then tacked it on that side checked again and then tacked it on in the remaining sides. Then welded it up threw it in as test drove it. didn't feel to bad but it was hard to tell. I didn't go far and the truck had been sitting for awile so the tires had flat spots at the end of the run i took it down the bypass at 80-90km and it seemed ok i'll have to take it for another run tommorow. :D


    I welded this one with stick welder 7018 but the welder was on the back of my Dads service truck. When I make my front tommorow i'll only have a a/c welder so what should i use 6013 or 7014 or should I wait to next weekend till the d/c welder comes back? :dunno:
     
  10. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    6013 ac should hold just fine as long as you know how to weld and get good penetration. Driveshafts aren't very thick.

    Harley
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd use 7014 over 6013 on a driveshaft.

    Rene
     
  12. highrider_44s

    highrider_44s 1/2 ton status

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    i didn't think that the 7014 would penitrate far enough maby i have to crank on the heat more :dunno:
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Crank it up to 150 or more...

    I use 7014 to fit with at work when there isn't a MIG machine available. It digs just fine if you crank it up some...better than 6013 IMO. If you're worried about it just put a small bevel prep on the two halfs being welded.

    Rene
     
  14. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    I shortened up a long driveshaft for my Burb. I just cut the the end off about 3/4" down from the weld and then using a grinder and a lathe, I removed the remaining tube and weld.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I then inserted the end into the tube, made sure it was straight and welded it up using our Miller Mig here at work.

    There are no pics of the welds.....that'd be too embarassing. :D

    I've since tested it out on my last wheelin' trip and it worked flawlessly. :D
     

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