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Update on Broken Lock down bolt

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by gumneck, May 20, 2003.

  1. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    It's out /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. Last night a 5/64 in. drill bit and corresponding size ez out did the trick. Had to take bearing caps out to pull carrier out enough to drill. Punched a dimple on the remaining bolt drilled it about 3/16 deep and in with the ez out. Backed right out. Lucky me. Can't believe it broke off b/c it backed out so effortlessly. Anyway, I'm on my way to the dealer to get new bolt.

    Anyone have problems with advance auto $4.24 axle shafts oil seals? I'm thinking of doing both rear wheels while I got it apart and thinking about buying the seals from the gm dealer.

    Also, with the pinion shaft out, can I rotate the housing so I can see the c clip without gears falling all over the place?
    Tks in advance.
    Tom
    1991 Blazer soon to be on the road again.
     
  2. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    Those seals are just as good as anything else. If I were you I'd also go ahead and remove everything(whole diff) and give them a good cleaning anyway incase you get metal shards in housing. Just push in on the axles. the C clips will just fall out. IF it wont rotate dont forget to put transfer case in neutral /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Yeh, I used a small pen magnet to get all the shavings out from drillin. Thought I'd still spray it down with brake cleaner to be next to godliness on getting it clean. The way the carrier housing is now I can't really see any c clips. I'm going to put the pinion shaft back in and gear selector in neutral then turn it so I can see em. Leaving work right now so I can get on it. tks for all the replies.
    Tom
     
  4. aburnett

    aburnett Registered Member

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    If you put the pin back in, u cant get the C-clips
    Leave the pin out and just push in on the axles. A groved end of the axles is pinched against the spider gear. Theyll fall right out. Get a Hanyes\Chilton book or CD at the parts store, lots of help there. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    Well, I went ahead and bought the axle shaft oil seals while at the dealer. They look different from the AA $4.24 seals. Also look different from the ones in the truck. I'm hoping they improved on them from 91' to 2003 and these are the never leaks. Who knows?

    Anyway, my rear didn't look like the one in the haynes book. I'm thinking its limited slip b/c I couldn't see any clips until I rotated the carrier like it said in the book for limited slip rears. That allowed me to see the c lock but impossible to remove by hand or screwdriver. There was some kind of I shaped hunk of metal seperating the spider gears and there was no clearance to get needle nose pliers in there to grab the c locks. So, if anyone else has a problem doing it here's what I did. First I sprayed the area around the c locks and the c locks themselves down with brake cleaner to remove the slippery grease. Then I took a pair of small needle nose pliers(throw aways from China) and grinded them down to about less than 1/8 in. thick and they were about 3/4 in. long after that. Pushed the c lock around the axle with a screwdriver so the open end faced toward front of truck and pulled em out with the Americanized Chinese pliers.

    Used the axle shafts to pry the old seals out and put the new ones in with light tapping using hammer and small block of pine 2x4. Maybe this will help someone else out but sorry if its putting ya to sleep.
     
  6. gumneck

    gumneck Registered Member

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    I meant to say "locking diff." rather than limited slip on above post. Don't know if its the same thing or not. Anyway, 80w90 and the cover/gasket is back on. Hopefully all is well with the rear now.

    If someone dont mind telling me the right amount of oil I'd appreciate it. Its a 10 bolt diff. and I used a little over 2.5 qts. I shot it in there till it started running out. Couldn't find in the Haynes book nor the owner's manual the quantity required.

    On a similar note, shouln't this 350cu.motor take at least 5 qts of oil with the filter change? My dipstick says I've overfilled it about 1" up past the full mark. I'm thinking the idiot owner before me used a dipstick from some other make.

    Tks again,
    Tom
     
  7. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    A completely drained (including axle tubes) ten bolt will take just over 5 pints of gear oil which is 2.5 quarts.

    As for the seals, seal manufacturers tend to make them look a little different in where they ride on the axle so they'll seal. Seals, especially in dusty climates, tend to wear the surface.

    If you use the big oil filter five quarts of oil will get you within 1/8" of the full mark. If you use the little filter (holds 1 pint instead of a quart) it will come up to right around 3/8" over full.
     

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