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Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what's needed?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by newyorkin, Jun 26, 2001.

  1. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    Hey all.

    I know these diff housings are all physically interchangeable, as far as mounting, but what else will need to change? Specifically, does anyone know the u-joint numbers for the combo joint, with the 10-bolt driveshaft and 14 bolt rear/d60 front pinion yokes?
    Also, brake cables. I'm reading a lot of posts about brake cabling, and wondering what exactly I need to change to keep an e-brake. I really want to go rear disc, but don't think I can afford all this at once, so will be sticking with stock.
    I'm getting the diff's from my uncle, and he's real reluctant to give them to me "what do you want to do all that for? Just put another ten-bolt in when yours blows. There's too much you have to change to make it work, and you gotta do both at the same time"...
    I just need to know exactly how much conversion is involved.

    Also, is it possible to somehow go 6-lug on these axles? I have real perty rims, and 6-lug wheels are more common in the junkyards around here.

    Thanks for the help!!

    Ratch
    **<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com>http://k5.8m.com</A> What more is there to life?**
     
  2. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    I haven't actually done a front Dana 60 conversion yet (still looking for a good price on a 60), but from what I understand it is virtually a direct bolt on. You would need, obviously, the complete Dana 60 front axle and new u-bolts and spring plates (the Dana 60 has larger tubes so the 10-bolt u-bolts are too small, plus the passenger side on the 60 doesn't use u-bolts). You might have to change the rubber brake lines (from the frame mounted steel lines to the calipers) but I'm not sure. I do believe the front driveshaft will bolt up to the standard 60 yoke.

    For the rear, you will want a 14 out of a 3/4 ton truck. The 1-ton versions will need the spring perches moved to line up with the Blazers springs. Again, you will need new larger u-bolts and the appropriate spring plates due to the larger size of the 14's axle tubes. The brake lines should bolt right on (but might need a little tweaking for proper routing). The 1330 to 1350 series conversion u-joint which will allow use of the stock driveshaft with the 14 and can be found at Napa and is p/n 447 (I don't know if other companies, like Spicer, has this.....but I would guess they do).

    Concerning having these axles converted to 6-lug bolt patterns....yes you can, but it will cost you big dollars. Places like Dynatrac can build 5 or 6 lug hubs for the 60, I've never actually priced them but I'm sure they probably ain't cheap. I've also seen a couple different conversions to have a 6-lug 14 bolt FF rear, but again it will cost you. I would guess that you could buy a new set of nice 8 lug rims, or possibly even a complete set of new tires and wheels, cheaper than you could convert these axles over to 6 lug.
     
  3. walt88

    walt88 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    6.2, that actually helped me out too. I was wondering the same thing about 14 bolt 1 ton and 3/4 ton perches.

    <font color=red>1988 Chevrolet K5 Blazer, Middletown, NJ (07737).</font color=red>
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    Don't even try to waste your time or your money making it 6 lug. It might be possible but it's not worth it. If you can, wait until your tires wear out, sell the wheels, and get some new 16" wheels and tires. Makes it much easier to clear the brakes (no grinder needed).

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  5. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    Did both the D60 conversion and 14FF a month ago. This is what I had to do -

    Dana 60 - NOTHING had to change other than the wheels and the.........
    Brake lines - I went with Pro Comp stainless, and had to slightly open up the banjo fitting in order to use the Dana 60 caliper banjo bolt. Not a big deal. Stephen Watson of ORD told me he has seen some D60's with larger banjo ID's which is why my brake lines needed to be opened up.
    U-joint - mine matched up perfectly, was the same yoke size (think it is called the 1310). Bolted right up.
    Drag link - used the 10 bolt link with a slight adjustment IN of about an inch.
    Raised steering block - put a 4" raised steering block to match my lift to keep the drag link angle flat.
    What was said about the spring plates is correct, just make sure you get the spring plates off that Dana 60 you are getting, otherwise it is about $169 for new ones. Even used the sway bar off the one ton but it's the same as the 10 bolt one. I also upgraded to the ORD swaybar correction/disconnect kit while I was at it.

    14BFF.........for a couple of reasons I stayed with the drums - cost to upgrade to disc and I see no reason to get rid of the massive stopping power of the drums.
    I used the Napa part number 348 u-joint. The 447 works for some guys, some driveshafts from later year Blazers had a larger yoke (1350 sized) but mine was definitely a 348 part.
    E-brake cables - my 14FF from Wes (thatk30guy) came with the brake cables (brand new - thanks Wes [​IMG]) and they fit directly into my frame/coupler to match up with the factory cable that connects with the e-brake pedal.
    NOTHING else had to be changed. I also used the Pro Comp stainless hose for the rear. Everything else bolted up very easily. I also put new 4" lift springs in the rear, as well as greasable bolts/poly bushings on all spring eyes and the shackle.

    It is a very simple changeover - at least mine was. Think the key is getting the proper bolt-in e-brake cables with the rearend. Ask Wes about the part number if your donor doesn't have them already. They should in theory. I had no issues with the driveshafts needing shortened, HOWEVER, the front D60 yoke snout is longer than the 10 bolt and I have heard if you do not have a lift you will have to shorten the front driveshaft. Due to my 4" Tuff Country springs (along with the added inch the D60 gives you) mine was fine.

    Hope this helps...........let me know if you need any more info.

    Pics of the conversion on my page (click below) on the One Ton conversion page.

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com>http://www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  6. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    The 348 u-joint is the 1310 to 1350 conversion joint. The older Blazers came factory with the smaller 1310 joints, and I believe most if not all 12-bolts had the 1310 yoke. The 447 is the 1330 to 1350 series, the newer Blazers (10-bolts) used this larger 1330 joint stock.
     
  7. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Upgrade to 14FF and D60 from corp 10; what\'s needed?

    I think Wes used the 14bolt semi-floating axle backing plates on it so the e-brake would hook right up. I could be wrong but I think I remember that being discussed.


    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by 90blzr on 06/26/01 02:20 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     

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