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Use ATF to clean engine?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigerik, Mar 14, 2001.

  1. bigerik

    bigerik 1/2 ton status

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    We have all heard of the idea to run a crankcase full of ATF for about 1,000 miles about every 50K miles in order to clean the engine, the idea being that the detergents in the ATF will break down deposits and they will come out. Is this a good idea? Have you done it with your own engine? Isn't ATF a little thin (nonviscous) to proplerly lubricate the bearings and what not? What do you say? See my beasts at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigerik.coloradoK5.com>http://www.bigerik.coloradoK5.com</A>.
     
  2. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    I haven't heard of running a whole crankcase full of it but I have heard of pouring a little bit down the carb to clean out carbon or suckin it through the PCV. Do a search on it, there have a been a couple of threads in the past about it

    Murphy's Laws on Life :
    "Opportunity always knocks at the least opportune time." [​IMG]
     
  3. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I just ran some through my 8 hp SCAG lawn mower and it smoothed out the idle a little bit.

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  4. Nrose07

    Nrose07 1/2 ton status

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    NEVER try to run a crankcase full of ATF. NEVER!!! You will toast your engine so fast you will get burnt yourself. Instead get a can of Marvel Mystry Oil, in your oil, gas, or carb it will not harm your engine. It works well, used in many different engines. Also a product that is worth checking out is Restore, helps fill in nicks and scrathes in the cylinder walls.

    Displacement, cubes, and did you say you drive a riceburner???
     
  5. Innerpiece

    Innerpiece 1/2 ton status

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    I have it from a good source that marvel mystery oil is simply red kerosene... sniff it good and see what you think
     
  6. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Get some marvel mystry oil and ADD it to your oil. I've poured a little down the carb to clean the top end of the motor, but you can also add the marvel mystry oil to your gas tank and it will do the same thing without all the smoke [​IMG].

    [​IMG] Keep your feet dry [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com>http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    ATF is great for cleaning stuff. I soak dirty parts in it over night when it's to cold to have the doors open to use gas but not sure I would run it in a engine crank case. There are some clenaers you can run just before you change the oil that will help clean it up. You may want to just swap to a synthetic oil. I'm pretty impressed with how clean amy engine is inside. I had the valve coveres off right after I bought it and had to pull them again after running Mobil1 for 12k and you wouldn't know it was the same engine if I had before and after pictures.
    Now I did use GM's top end engine cleaner on My Supra last week trying to see if my horibble mis was a stuck valve. Nope it's a burnt Valve. I pulled the head Wednesday and was fairly well impressed with what I found. The stuff was cleaning for sure and had I been able too drive the car for a day or so after using it I think it would have cleaned up really well. All the carbon in the engine is coming off with a shop towel. Anybody who has pulled a motor appart with lots of carbon knows you usualy have to scrape it off.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  8. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    I had a truck and when I bought it in '97 the odm said 160,000 and when I crawled under it the oil filter had written on it '95 135,000. Oh $hit! I ran Valvoline oil in it and used napa's gold line oil filter and changed the oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles like I do on every thing (one ounce of prevention=a pound of cure) and when i had to crack the motor open to put a new cam in it (after 40,000 miles of pulling a gooseneck horse trailer loaded with a half ton p/u-kinda wears those cams down) it looked like a new block inside. I was impressed! so that's what I will run forever and ever...Valvoline and a Napa Gold filter every 3,000. Most oils have detergants in them. I have heard of problems with switching to a sythetic oil when you've been running regular oil on a used block.

    [​IMG] Keep your feet dry [​IMG]
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  9. pr1aw

    pr1aw 1/2 ton status

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    Do not run a full crankcase full of ATF. On most engines the seals will get toasted and its not thick enough for proper lubrication. The only time I would use ATF is to get the carbon out by sucking it through the PCV valve. Water works well also. Its the coolness of the liquid that hits the carbon and breaks it up.
    As for cleaning the motor out. STP has a motor flush product out that you run in your engine for 10-20 minutes at idle and it claims to recondition the seals inside also. You use this just before you change the oil. I used this on a couple of high milage vehicles and the oil comes out really black.
    Myth about changing over synthetics to petroleum based oils and vice versa, its a misconception. You can change back and forth if you want to, hence semi-senthetics. Half petroleum/half syenthetic. Synthetics are better though for a motor, keeps them from wearing out and dosen't break down as quick. Follow your manufactures info on oil changing intervals.
     
  10. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Actually there is a bit of substance to the synth/petro myths. If you switch to synthetic in a high-mileage motor that has seen only petroleum, you'll see a few more oil leaks. The synthetic oil does not swell the seals the way petroleum oil does.

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
     
  11. pr1aw

    pr1aw 1/2 ton status

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    My 91 had 192,000 when I got it about 6 months ago, I started running synthetics and no leaks and no burning in 6000 miles. (yet) Its the original engine.
     
  12. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    BE VERY CAREFULL pouring any fluid into the carb or sucking it through the pcv valve! Fluids DO NOT compress! It will be like throwing a chuck of steel in your combustion chamber. If you do use any type of oil to clean the combustion cambers use it very sparingly. -Tommy
     
  13. Ditchdigger

    Ditchdigger Registered Member

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    I have used #2 diesel for many years prior to engine rebuild
    I just dump the oil, fill with #2 diesel to the mark and run for about 10 minutes, revving here and there but by no means driving it like that for any amount of miles!
    and it works great for the top end and block and makes rebuilding alot cleaner and flushes the system out!
    It looks like oil all over again when I drain it!

    If it ain't Intimidating / It ain't a Chevy!
     
  14. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    another way to clean carbon is to get the motor to norm oper temp wind it up and pour water down its throat.nonflammable too.be prudent w/ the water hydrolock will kill an eng kwik.also loose carbon bouncing around in the comb chamber will knock,sounds like the motor is comin apart.ive only heard it once ever,i was told to let it run and break itself up.it did.i hated listening to it though.and it wasnt from the water thing,it was just there when i fired it up.it was a customers car,a little old ladys caprice wagon.it was wrecked hard and was in the shop a while sitting,and it didnt do it when i last ran it to pull it in.

    PURE INSANITY
    86 blazer silverado 400 horse 350 w/vortec heads 38 x15.5 swampers (40 hawgs next)10 bolts(blah)w/4:88s coming soon,14 bolt.
     

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