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Using a straight tierod on D44 ?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ColAdo82K5, Dec 9, 2003.

  1. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey,
    I'm putting in a Dana44 front soon and i don't have a tierod for it. Who has used a straight tierod ? For instance, use my current 10bolt tierod ? Or maybe a rockrod ? The stock 44 ones have dropped ends on them, correct ? It seems that there is enough room for it bolt up but the steering stabilizer might be close to the spring/perch. Let me know if use have used a straight tierod with a stabilizer at the same time.
    Thanks
    Blake
     
  2. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Does the D44 have flat top knuckles? The tie-rod type on D44's depends on the year, I think. My '71 D44 had flat tops and a dropped tie-rod that mountes on top of the knuckle. My 8-lug '77 D44 was not a flat-top and it used a straight tie-rod that mounts from the bottom.

    I swapped the flat tops and tie rod onto the 8-lug axle for crossover someday, and when I put the axle under my Burb I had about 1-1.5" between the tie-rod and leaf springs. I have since put in a zero rate, so now I have more clearance. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Here are a few pics....

    Stock '71 D44 with flat-tops and "dropped" top-mounted tie-rod:
    [​IMG]

    Stock '77 D44 with non-flat tops, straight bottom-mounted tie rod:
    [​IMG]

    Hope that helps. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    The knuckles I'm putting on are mid 70's flat tops that the tie rod is mounted "on top" instead of "on bottom" with all 10 bolt fronts. I also already have 6inch front springs on, so there is a decent arch to them, at least better then stock negitives arched springs.
    Blake
     
  5. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    The knuckles I'm putting on are mid 70's flat tops that the tie rod is mounted "on top" instead of "on bottom" with all 10 bolt fronts. I also already have 6inch front springs on, so there is a decent arch to them, at least better then stock negitives arched springs.
    Blake

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well it is hard to say. The springs in the top pic are 4" Rough Country's......from the top pic, if I had a straight tie-rod, it would be REALLY close. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  6. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    So,
    If flat tops and a straight tierod hit...what could I do ? Use some bent TRE's in my 10 bolt centersection ? Like a stock pass side and then a ???? I need something to hook the stabilizer to. Maybe a rockrod with a stock pass side and then a dodge driver side would be the ticket and then use a clamp to mount the stabilizer. That adds $$$ up quick.
    Thanks for the quick replies !
    Blake
     
  7. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    So,
    If flat tops and a straight tierod hit...what could I do ?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Slap a zero-rate in there! If not, then you might need some dropped TRE's....Isn't your stock 10B tie-rod the type that has only one removeable TRE and the formed in hole for the stabilizer? If so then it would be tough to add dropped TRE's. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    My stabilizer mounts on the welded on stock bracket on the axle and a little u-bolt clamped bracket on the tie-rod. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Zero-rates are cool, but would throw me some saggy butt.
    My 10bolt tierod has one center section with a short pass end and a long driver end with a stab hole in it. To save some dough right now, i might just see if can get away with it....after all..the spring to tie/rod distance doesn't move during flex so that cool. Hopefully, it will fit. My stabilizer body mounts to the stock welded bracket near the pumkin and the piston rod is the closest part to the spring. The rod portion of the stab would be most likely to hit i believe, while turning right.

    On the ORD webpage...there is a pic of 10 and 44 knuckles, it almost appears as if the "tie rod mounting" part is lower on a 44 knuckle...if I'm reading the pictures correctly.
    http://www.offroaddesign.com/Dana44crossover.htm
    I think the one without ball joints is the 44 flat top, while the one with joints is either a 10 or 44 nonflat top.
    So, even though i will be mounting a straight draglink, the portion it mounts to will be a inch lower. what do ya'll say to that ?
    Blake
     
  9. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]

    I swapped the flat tops and tie rod onto the 8-lug axle for crossover someday, and when I put the axle under my Burb I had about 1-1.5" between the tie-rod and leaf springs. I have since put in a zero rate, so now I have more clearance. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ok, i missed this the first time through....If you had about 1.5 inch clearance...that drop in the TRE is about inch...I end up with .5 clearance...but i have a bit more arch in my springs to help clearance a little bit. So i might end up with an inch.....(this mounts the rod fairly high and out of the way too...umm..i like that) I guess one way to go is to go to the parts store to check the drop in a dropped TRE compared to a straight TRE.
    Blake
     
  10. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Blake - try a 1978 K5 tierod, adjustment sleeve and tierod end. The only problem with it, the hole for the stabilizer will be backwards! Its a solid unit and non dropped! I would have given you mine, but I had to give it to JMS who bent his tierod at the Fall Crawl! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    So, If flat tops and a straight tierod hit...what could I do ?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sounds like a good reason to go "high-steer".

    Marv
     
  12. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Blake....one thing to remember is the taper in the knuckle determines which way you can mount the tie-rod....on top or from below. So you really can't pick which one you want unless you change the knuckles too. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    You will probably be ok, but there is only one way to find out.! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    That ORD pictures shows exactly what I had....a flat-top with the lower mounting point and a non-flat-top with the higher. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  13. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well,
    Hi-steer is cool, but i'm just doing simple crossover right now. Keeping it low budget by using existing parts...otherwise i would just lay down extra to get a tierod to match the axle/knuckles.
    After some measuring, I want to say that I will try the 10bolt tierod on the flattops. (But i will have a junkyard backup hopefully) It should tuck up out of the way fairly well...my only concern is the piston of the stabilizer rubbing a bit on the spring turning right....we will see and I'll let you all how it turns out. This may end up being a poor-college-man's quasi-hi-steer.....

    Blake
     
  14. yunit

    yunit 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Here are a few pics....

    Stock '71 D44 with flat-tops and "dropped" top-mounted tie-rod:
    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Anyone know what the thread size is on the dropped TRE's???
     
  15. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, one last reason why i think this WILL work....
    http://www.coloradok5.com/crossoversteering.shtml
    Check out the first picture...he has a similar spring setup compared to me. There appear to be 1.5 inches between the steering stabilizer body and the spring, with flattops, but my stabilizer will be turned the other way so that will give me a little bit more clearance. So, I'm still thinking this will work...anybody fiqure out why it won't ? Imagine that first picture with a straight tierod...it is such a crazy idea...it might just work.
    Blake
     
  16. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Looking at the pics in the crossover article I have to agree. It looks like it will work. There appears to be plenty of room for the tie-rod and steering stabilizer. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  17. Chris_T

    Chris_T 1/2 ton status

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    You have your tie rod sitting around? Bring it by my place and we'll look at the clearance on my Flat-topped D44.
     
  18. NetBlazer

    NetBlazer Registered Member

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    Blake,

    It should work for you, as I did very much the same thing on my '88. I have what I think is a 76 D44 and used the stock striaght tie rod from my 10 bolt. It has Tuff Country EZ-Ride 4" lift springs and it's really close, but it fits. I'm not sure I will have room for the sleeved Rock Rod I would like to install without slapping in a set of zero rates though.

    Note the penny painstakingly balanced on the tie rod to illustrate clearance /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps, and if you need any other pics, let me know.

    Sean
     
  19. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    THANK YOU ! Great picture, that tierod look stuffed away from the rocks quite well. Can I get a picture of the steering stabilizer side ? I think we can patent this the "accidental-Quasi-mid-steer".
    Blake
     
  20. seslick77

    seslick77 1/2 ton status

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    http://community.webshots.com/photo/93159164/93159554tIkYPV

    Not the best picture.. Ive got one of those "rock rods" and it was rubbing the bottom of my springs. After installing 4 deg. shims to correct the pinion angle it lifted the springs off the rod about an inch or so. Thats a D44 off a 73 btw. I had to grind off part of the damper bracket on the axle to make clearance for the new damper to move. Hope this helps you decide. Sam
     

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