Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Using an air chissel to remove spring hangers

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by afroman006, Jun 8, 2003.

  1. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,876
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    College Station & Kingsville, Texas
    Can it be done? I need to take the spring hangers off my 1 ton parts truck. If it matters, I can get at the hangers from above because the wood bed of the truck is all rotten and/or not there. What kind of head/bit/whateveryoucallit should I use. Also, how do I use a air chissel? I've never used one before... Thx

    Sorry for the confusion I was thinking spring hangers in my head but wrote perches.
     
  2. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2003
    Posts:
    1,129
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Tyrone, PA
    Re: Using an air chissel to remove spring perches

    If you are talking the perches that are welded to the axle tube you will be there forever and a day trying to take em off with an air chisel. A 4" grinder may work to grind off the weld beads.
     
  3. rodzzilla

    rodzzilla 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    953
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Grinnell, IA
    An air chisel will work fine. Use a flat cutting blade. Once you get the head of the rivet cut off, you can use the edge, or a blunt tool to pop the rivet out. Match the angle of the blade to the rivet to get the best bite. Might have to work around the circumfrence of the rivet. Hopefully I am explaining this good enough. One of those deals where you think everyone knows what you are talking about. Sometimes I will score the head of the rivet w/a cut off tool. Kinda make it look like a std screw head.
     
  4. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2003
    Posts:
    1,129
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Tyrone, PA
    OK the post was edited it did say spring PERCHES which would indicate the perches on the axle tube /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif now that is says hangers yes a air chisel can take off those rivets no problem.
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    If you want to take a air chissle to the rivits make sure it is a good one! A regular parts store or home depot one will not cut it. Get a good IR chissle and you will have no problem getting them out.
     
  6. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    2,406
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Dumont NJ 07628
    <font color="blue">I grind the heads off the rivets with a 4" angle grinder then pop the rivets out with an air chissel.
     
  7. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Posts:
    5,236
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lehigh Acres, Florida
    a campbell hausfield chisel from walmart, the severe duty one will work just fine...use the flat edge chisel and have at it, cut the heads of the rivets off with that, then use the pointed one to drive them through
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    If the rivet is easy enought to get to, I use a 1/4 grinding wheel in a 4.5" grinder to slot the center of the head. Then the straight chisel, or sometimes the 15*(?) chisel depending on obstructions and mood to cut each half off. Hold the chiel firmly against the head, and square to the cut, but don't try to shove it through, it'll cut a little better if you don't lay into it quite so hard. Once the head is off, the punch tip works fairly well if it's not too sharp. If it's too sharp, it can sometime flare the rivet enough that it's really hard to get out. Mine work must better since I put an almost blunt, roughly 1/4 flat(ish) tip on it. The rivet holes are 3/8 so don't make it too big to fit if you mod the punch.

    If the grinder won't fit, I just use the chisel, though it takes longer and is rougher on the arms than the 2 step method. It also tends to mar the brackets more if you do it all with a chisel. Also, make sure you keep the barel tight since it may vibrate loose after a while. I've got the IR and it works quite well...
     
  9. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,876
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    College Station & Kingsville, Texas
    Ok thx guys. Since this is the reverse of usual (I need the hangers intact, dont care about the frame at all) I may take a grinder to the inside of the frame if I can. I dont have a 4" grinder/cutter but I've been looking for an excuse to get one. May head over to Harbor Freight and pick one up along with a sandblaster. What brand are y'all refering to by saying "IR"? Thx guys
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    IR = Ingersol Rand. Typically regarded as the best quality pneumatic tools for the money. Some would say "any money", but I'm sure with unlimited funds you could find better. When I want it to work WELL and last (Impact, air chisel, air ratchet, etc.) I buy IR. When it's not a big deal (air drill, die grinder, air shear, nibbler) I buy CP from Harbor Freight...

    It can be tough to work inside the rails, but in many cases you can with all the junk out of the way. Only thing is that the rivets go in from that side, and the head is taller/heavier on the inside. Makes it a bit more difficult to grind and chisel, but not too much...
     

Share This Page