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Utility Interior

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mastiff, Jun 29, 2003.

  1. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I've got an 83 K5 and I was wondering what kinds of things people have done to make the interior more durable. In my Jeep, I ripped out all the carpet and Rhino lined the entire tub. I'd like to do something like that with the Blazer, but I'm not really sure what the deal is with the side panels in the bed area. Right now they appear to be some flimsy cardboard or something, and underneath, is it just a a single layer of sheet metal, the same as the outside? That's what it looks like, so you probably need to have some sort of interior side panel in place, or can you just rip all the side panels and carpet out and leave it at that?

    Thanks for any ideas or advice.
     
  2. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    I took my side panels out and Line-x'd the whole interior, tailgate to firewall and bedsides. Some guys keep their side panels in to hide amps and stuff. They make 'em out of ply (varying thicknesses, but mainly 3/4"), cover them with carpet or paint or Line-x. You can use your existing panels for templates if that's what you want to do.
     
  3. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I took my side panels out and Line-x'd the whole interior, tailgate to firewall and bedsides. Some guys keep their side panels in to hide amps and stuff. They make 'em out of ply (varying thicknesses, but mainly 3/4"), cover them with carpet or paint or Line-x. You can use your existing panels for templates if that's what you want to do.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Thanks. Without the side panels, could something heavy hit the single ply of sheet metal and dent the exterior of the truck?
     
  4. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    Had the side panels removed and rhino'd everything, from the firewall to the tailgate.
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The box sides are double walled. You could sledge hammer the inside without ever seeing a mark on the outside.

    Rene
     
  6. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I removed the stock interior sides and installed aluminum diamond plate (sides, floor and gate). I was going to do the wheel wells and the back of the fold up seat too so the complete rear would be smash proof but I havent finished yet.
     
  7. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I took my side panels out and Line-x'd the whole interior, tailgate to firewall and bedsides. Some guys keep their side panels in to hide amps and stuff. They make 'em out of ply (varying thicknesses, but mainly 3/4"), cover them with carpet or paint or Line-x. You can use your existing panels for templates if that's what you want to do.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    that a great ideal on the rear side panels..I think I'll make up some new ones and Line-X them...I have just painted wood now and want to chuck them, so I'll cut some new ones and X them... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    without the side panels they look just like pickups, thats cool, ive never seen a 73-up blazer up close.. let alone inside of one
    .
     
  9. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    That looks great to me with everything ripped out and just Rhino'd.

    I went out and started tearing into my truck. Here's a question: What's the easiest way to deal with that nasty adhesive they used to attach the carpet to the wheel well?

    Also, how in the world do I deal with a rounded out torx bolt? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif The big torx bolts holding the rear seat-belts to the bed were pretty tight and sure enough, I rounded the damn thing out. The bit gets no grab now at all, and it would take a ton of torque to get it out even if it was all good. Should I try to drill it or what?
     
  10. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I went out and started tearing into my truck. Here's a question: What's the easiest way to deal with that nasty adhesive they used to attach the carpet to the wheel well?

    Also, how in the world do I deal with a rounded out torx bolt? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif The big torx bolts holding the rear seat-belts to the bed were pretty tight and sure enough, I rounded the damn thing out. The bit gets no grab now at all, and it would take a ton of torque to get it out even if it was all good. Should I try to drill it or what?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    same tool will fix the rounded bolt and the nasty adhesive... 4.5" grinder. I used a wire wheel attachment on that adhesive stuff on my rig when I stripped the interior to herculine it (pics in webshots)... and it worked well. standard grinder wheels work good on bolt heads too... just grind that sucker flush if ur gonna line over it anyway.

    j
     
  11. Rob 85K5

    Rob 85K5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    A small propane torch and a putty knife work wonders on the wheel wells and the driver and passenger footwells.
     
  12. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I will have to agree that the grinder is the easiest solution to the rubber and the bolt, but since I wanted to keep the possibilities open to re-use the seat belt nuts, I welded a nut on top of the torx bolt and they came right out.
     
  13. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    same tool will fix the rounded bolt and the nasty adhesive... 4.5" grinder. I used a wire wheel attachment on that adhesive stuff on my rig when I stripped the interior to herculine it (pics in webshots)... and it worked well. standard grinder wheels work good on bolt heads too... just grind that sucker flush if ur gonna line over it anyway.

    j


    [/ QUOTE ]

    What's going on with your fuel filler neck cover thing there (your webshots)? I would have just herculined right over it. Did you remove it, then herculine around it and put it back? Was that just for looks?
     
  14. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I will have to agree that the grinder is the easiest solution to the rubber and the bolt, but since I wanted to keep the possibilities open to re-use the seat belt nuts, I welded a nut on top of the torx bolt and they came right out.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Amazingly, I was able to loosen the bolt by heating it from underneath with a torch and then grabbing it with vice-grips. I never thought it would work. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  15. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    The Rhino dealer is talking $650+ to do the whole inside of my K5. I'd do it, but my wife will kill me since she hates my truck. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    Anyone know a good source for rubber mats for both the bed area and front?
     
  17. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    You can do it with herculiner for under $100. Someone in my crawling club did it to their jeep and it came out very nice.
     
  18. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm going to go with Line-X on the interior of my K5. The Line-X guy seemed to have much more of a clue than the Rhino guy (he just did an 82 Blazer) and the price was almost half that of Rhino ($350).

    For people who did the entire interior with Rhino or Line-X (or whatever), where did you stop at the front? I've got everything ripped out up to the cardboard stuff on the firewall, so I was thinking of stopping there, but I'm not sure about the floor at the doors. How far out should I go? I could stop at the rubber trim, but the paint does tend to get worn outside of that, so it'd be cool to go further.

    I'm tempted to look into doing the outside of the truck too, like the bottom 12" all the way around (up to the big stripe on my 83 paint scheme), anyone have experience with that?

    Oh yeah, what have people done with the kick panels on each side (the wall area where the people's feet go)? I've got plastic there right now that I'd like to get rid of. On the driver's side this is no problem, but on the passenger side, the vent mechanism is held in by the plastic trim/moulding. Is there an alternative way of mounting the vent stuff without the plastic?
     
  19. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Here's pics:

    Before:

    [​IMG]

    After:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is just after I got back from the Line-X place, except for the dirty dog footprints. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    I've got some more pics here:

    http://www.taildragger.info/K5/index.php
     
  20. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    how does rhino or lineX stick to plastic? i tried some duplicolor spray on on my door panels and it came out ok but peels easily, but it sticks great on my seatbelt boxes...
     

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