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Valve seals

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by River, Aug 25, 2000.

  1. River

    River 1/2 ton status

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    Wich are good aftermarket valve seals for a `89 350 TBI engine.
    Both of my cars smoke when starting up or after idling for a while.

    Greetings from Amsterdam.

    River `90 K5, 350, TH700R4, NP241, "33, 3.08, 10 bolt F, 10 Bolt R
     
  2. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    One thing I've heard is that the old o-ring style seals should be replaced with umbrella-style ones. Not sure why, but that's what everybody has told me..........
     
  3. 89Jimmy

    89Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thats just the opposite of what I've always done. Anytime I had a set of heads down, I've always paid the extra for "perfect circle" style seals. I've seen the umbrella type crack and come out in pieces. Maybe things have changed or there is a better made umbrella seal. I'm an old guy so I might not be up to speed, but I got a set of used crate moter heads coming and I was planning on doing p.c. seals on 'em. I'm interested in seeing where this thread goes.
    John

    So Much to do, So LITTLE cash.
     
  4. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, how about some more input on this subject.....I need to replace mine also.........what's the hot setup? I also don't want to pull the heads. Anyone?

    Michael [​IMG] http://jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
     
  5. 89Jimmy

    89Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Just movin' it back up. Nobody has any opinions on this?

    So Much to do, So LITTLE cash.
     
  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    i will seoncd the Umbrella seal motion! I have heard to NOT use the o-ring tye seal and that the Umbrella seals are the way to go.

    Sorry 89 Jimmy, i am not flaming you..

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  7. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    That's the same thing I've done on all mine. Current Blazer not included(I'm working on it, just give me time).

    The umbrella style came out in many peices and was VERY brittle. The O-rings seem to last a little longer and hold their pliability (is that a word) and not get brittle.

    Kyle
    89K5
     
  8. dumbfounded

    dumbfounded 1/2 ton status

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    I had put umbrella seals in my vette and when it came time for another motor (1year later) I put OEM that had the small spring. Now nothing but smoke when I start them up. Wish I still had the umbrella type. As far as deterioration it has to be composition so I'd just look at different brands. Just thought I'd include a pic of the vette... 12.4sec @109mph in 1/4.....

    Love, Peace, and Hair Grease...........
     
  9. Russ

    Russ 1/2 ton status

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    My 90 Blazer was smoking on start up when I bought it. I just bought the valve seals from the GM dealer, the replacement seals were $49.95. I replaced them with the heads on. Just use the air pressure trick in the cylinders and a valve spring tool designed to use with the heads still on and it is a fairly easy job. My Blazer has not smoked a bit since I did this about a year ago.
     
  10. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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  11. scrapper

    scrapper Registered Member

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    My 85 smokes from the valve seals,so I asked a engine bulider what he suggested as far as seals.The answer that I got was dependant on the heads.If the heads are stock and have not had any valve work,(guides installed) you should install the umbrella style seals.These will allow oil to go past them and lube the guides.If the heads are machined and have guides installed then they should use the o-ring style.These do not allow any oil past them for luberication of tyhe guides.As I do not want to take my heads off,I am going to go the umbrella route.This will be this comming weekends project.
     
  12. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    The only caution with using umbrella type seals is high lift cam applications (.500 or greater). It will eventually crush the seals. Victor makes a seal that locks to the valve guide and has teflon in them that work pretty good. Stock cams or RV type cams (I'm running a Comp Cams Extreme Energy)will keep the lift down and increases the duration.
    One other thing. If the valve guides are worn, don't waste your time and money having them knurled. Knurling the guides only displaces metal and you will be paying the machinist to have them redone in a short time. Have new guides installed. If you can, use bronze guides. They will last longer than steel guides.
     

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