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Valve Stem Seals?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bunker, Jan 25, 2004.

  1. bunker

    bunker Registered Member

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    Has anyone ever changed these? If so is there any secrets you can share w/me. I need to know what kind of tool it is that you screw into the cylinder head for the compressed air. Can it be bought or do you have to make it? Thanks for any sugesstions.
     
  2. bunker

    bunker Registered Member

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    Anyone!! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You can buy one at most parts stores. Or, if you have a compression tester then you might be able to use the hose for it. I just had to remove the one-way valve at the end of the hose and connected it right up to my air hose. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    You will also need a valve spring compressor so that you can get the springs removed. I've got one made by Lisle that cost around $20.
     
  4. bunker

    bunker Registered Member

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    Thanks for the idea!! I never thought of using the compression tester. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Has anyone ever dropped a valve into the cylinder doing them that way? I haven't, just curious if someone has.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I never really compared the valve stem length to stroke, but as long as the piston wasn't at the bottom of it's travel, is it even an issue? (have to switch the compressor inlet on each cylinder anyways, why not just rotate the engine?)
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You're never going to be able to get the valve locks back on unless the valve stays all the way up when you're doing this. I have never dropped one (always pressurize the cylinder at TDC) but I haven't done very many with the engine in the vehicle.

    I haven't decided if I'm going to risk it with mine for the mild amount of smoke I get on startup.
     
  8. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

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    I like the top dead center idea. If by some small chance the valve falls further down than you like {I will admit that it's sorta irritating to have to hold the valve up while trying to install the keepers},,, you can always use rope in the cylinder to hold it against it's seat.

    If you happen to be useing brand new Ford style seals {maybe teflon seals also, haven't tried it with those}, they will normally be enough to hold the valve up well enough to get the keepers in.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I suppose the rope trick is always an option. At that point I'd try anything to avoid pulling the head.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yeah, guess getting the lock back on would tend to be a problem. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I just focused on the immediate problem, not the repercussions. Whoops.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Yeah, guess getting the lock back on would tend to be a problem. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I just focused on the immediate problem, not the repercussions. Whoops.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    When my truck used to be my DD, you quickly saw how the immediate problem might impact the repercussions and how you might not be making it to work/school if such problem continued. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. bunker

    bunker Registered Member

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    The only reason I am thinking of changing them is because it burns a quart about every 250-300 miles. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    It doesn't smoke after it's warmed up just when you start it up. I'm just trying to milk it for a while longer. In your opinion is it even worth attempting. I know it's a lot easier just filling it up with oil. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    Thanks!

    The previous owner converted it from a diesel to a 350 and now I'm just trying to fix his mess ups. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif The motor was probably wore out when he installed it. My fault not checking closely but the truck as a whole is in great shape.

    Thanks to all of you for the help. This is the best website.
     
  13. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Good idea about the compression tester Harry! I made an adapter a few year back by tearing all of the ceraminc out of an old spark plug and brazing it to an air fitting.

    I have changed seals and/or valvesprings a few times on engines still in the vehicle. I always make sure the cylinder is at TDC and I wire the butterflies of the carb open. You will blow some air out and I don't want 120psi trying to escape thru the idle circuit of the carb.

    Usually the keepers will be quite wedged in the retainer, so I take big socket, place it on the retainer and rap it a few time with a hammer. This usually allows you to pry on the retainer without opening the valve. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I have had good luck using a small pen magnet to pick the keepers out, besides....it keeps your fingers out of there in case that compressor slips. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you're really BURNING that much oil, I don't think a set of valve seals would last long. You can try it though, you've got very little to lose. At the very worst, it'd just cut down on oil consumption instead of eliminating it.
     
  15. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I always rotate the engine so that the piston that I'm working on is at TDC. That way the valves can only drop about 1/2 of an inch at most. But you would have to whack a valve stem pretty hard to get it to pop off the seat. With 120 PSI in the chamber, even a weenine 1.5 inch valve would have around 212 pounds of pressure holding it against the seat. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     

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