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Very Serious Brake Question, Please help ive had 2 close calls now,,,,,

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Silver84k5, Jul 15, 2002.

  1. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    ok i jusdt got done doing the one ton conversion, ive asked around if i should use a master cylinder out of a one tone truck and it seems most people say no, well just about everyone said no, anyway, my brakes suck real real bad, first time they went out i think it might have been a mmessed up front brake line, i pressed the brakes and i heard a pop then i had no brakes (came within a few inches of the casr in front of me before they moved) what had happend was a hole blew in the front line, Shouldnt the back brakes still work? ok well i replaced the front brake line and bled the brakes still real mooshy but they worked again, well we jacked up the ass of my truck and put it in drive the back tires were turning and i pressed the brakes the back right still turned what seemed to be freely as no brakes were getting applied at all, and the left side didnt stop all that quick took awhile for it to stop, ok a few days later i went to the river and im going up a hill and decide to back down cuz it was too narrow, i put it in reverse start moving back wards go to touch the brakes.... nothing there, well i back the truck onto the side of the road and walk the wall of the road till i stop (thatll make you pucker up real quick) ok so im facing uphill i drive up to a flat spot get the truck stopped, pump up the brakes and they start working again, well now my truck is in my driveway till i have Stop on the dime Brakes cuz 2 close calls is two too many for me, Please help, Thank you......... P.S. sorry it is so long
     
  2. K10ANDYKHAMNIC

    K10ANDYKHAMNIC 1/2 ton status

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    id say GET the one ton master it matches the brakes . imo itd be dumb not too . you should check your proportioning valve also . when u put on the one ton master cyl you may also need a prop valve for the rear cause they may lock up too soon .
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    You do not need a 1 ton master cylinder. If your brake pedal is mushy then you still have air in the system somewhere. There is also the posibility that your existing master cylinder is bad. If you do have a bad master cylinder then maybe I would say to install the 1 ton if you must but it is not needed. You must make sure the 1 ton master has the same amount of travel also.
     
  4. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    If you have 1 ton drum brakes then don't they require more pedal travel to make them work? If they are drums then did you adjust the self adjuster until it just made contact with the shoes? If you didn't have all the air out of the system and you mashed the pedal to the floor it's possible that you tore the seal in the master cylinder. Just a few thoughts.
     
  5. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    When all else fails, check that little filter in the vacuum line that runs to the engine (if yours has one). Mine had that same problem, and after I went and put on a brand new booster, it turned out to be that thing.

    Ash
     
  6. 1Blazin71

    1Blazin71 1/2 ton status

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    I second the 1 Ton master not needed opinion. I did the 14BFF swap recently and after getting the adjusters set right and an hour or so of adjusting the prop valve I have it working great. It feels like it might be a bit too front biased but I have it so that I can stomp it pretty good without locking up the rears.

    The stock master seems to be working fine for me.
     
  7. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Make sure the rear's are adjusted out properly by hand, then POWER BLEED the system. Spend the $60, worth your life. You do not need one ton MC/Booster, Josh. You'd just be throwing money at what is not wrong. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  8. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like when my P.B. Booster went out... try the screen that someone else mentioned and take a look at the Booster too..
     
  9. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    IT IS NOT THE BOOSTER !!! IT IS NOT THE BOOSTER !! The only thing a booster does is to make pushing that brake pedal easier. Back in the day, they didn't even have power brakes ! Your booster could be completely gutted and you brakes should still function but the pedal will feel rock hard like my friends 74 nova with no power brakes !
    Your problem must be your master cylinder going out or you have a leak in the lines or you still have a sneaky air pocket in the lines.
    M.C.'s arn't very expensive so try one out if yours is old! Only like $20. Sometimes bleeding the brakes came mess up a MC's seals. it travels in spots it hasn't been before....so but a 2x4 under the pedal next time so the travel of the pedal is limited.
    Inspect your lines with someone on the pedal. look for little air bubbles coming out or a wet line. Check for cracked rubber.
    Even if your rears are out of whack--you system shouldn't need "pumping back up" to function. But you still have to adjust rears for better braking.

    I would suspect the MC of being bad though if your problems are random.

    Good luck---Blake
     
  10. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    To add and repeat to the already long list...If your M/C is old, replace it and get the biggest one that will bolt on, I know a 3/4 ton will work, not sure on 1 ton, and the price diff is like $5. If you had one line pop, it is possible the others are going too which would add to the softness of the pedal. Also check the wheel cylinders in the rear. I had a hell of a time getting mine right and found out the cylinders were shot, HUGE difference. Finally, make sure to adjust the rear brakes so there is a slight drag. You may have to re-adjust the rear brakes often, the self-adjusters dont seem to work well.

    If you have done any mudding, make sure the rear brakes are cleaned out afterwards and re-adjusted.

    Don't believe that you need to pay $60 to have them power bled. You can do it yourself with a piece of tubing. Probably not a bad Idea to bleed them until your fluid runs clean, and at that point you should be good. Start at the wheel farthest from the M/C.
     
  11. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    so but a 2x4 under the pedal next time so the travel of the pedal is limited.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!

    In a panic stop where you put your foot to the floor and NEED to stop you want the M.C. not to fail when pushed beyond it's normal working limit. If it fails while bleeding it, it means a seal is going or a pit in the wall is there and WILL show up under a panic stop and that is the time you don't want it to fail. I would buy a new M.C. (not a cheapo rebuild as I have had those fail right out of the box). Bench bleed it, and then re-bleed the whole system. Also adjust the rear shoes to make sure they are close enough to apply clamping force almost as soon as the pedal is pressed. If that does not work, bring it to a qualified brake shop to diagnose. It not worth losing your life or taking someone elses.
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Here's a neat do it yourself power bleeder . There are fancier ones that you can make, but this gives you a pretty basic idea for one that only costs maybe $15 to make. Granted the site is for a Porsche one, but you get the idea.</font color>
     
  13. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    thx for all the replies, ill get to work on it, but the one thing that is heavy on my mind is that front brake line popping a hole in it, it was a steel braided not rubber, what could cause this? and the reason im wondering about the master cylinder being bad is cuz it seems to be a big coincidence that right when i put these axles in there the MC went bad, but it inexpensive so i dont reallty care ill; buy one, thx again, and if you have any other ideas id love to hear
     
  14. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

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    maybe you should look into the hydro assist setup. you can find them on all 1 tons.
     
  15. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I run one tons with the half ton master. I have also sold meny sets of 1 ton axles and most of the trucks they are in are running the half ton master with no problem. It is not your booster. With no boost the brakes will still function. I gravity bleed mine. What I do is use for cheap plastic containers, cut a slot in the lid, put hose through the slot that will fit the bleeder and is long enough for the containers to sit on the ground. Crack open the bleeders and let the fluid flow. Just make sure the master does not run dry. I usually let 2 qts flow through the system into the containers. Tighten the bleeders and top the master off and done. What might happen though is you might have one that will not let fluid come out, close the other ones first and give it a minute to make sure fluid comes out and if not use your hand and gently push the brake pedal in. That should pop out an air bubble and then it will flow. Most likely though with the others closed it will start on its own. If your brakes don't feel better after that then you have other problems.
     

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