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  1. 84K5cedric

    84K5cedric 1/2 ton status

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    VIN\'s

    I just bought an 84 K5 and the previous owner says the engine is not original. He said it is a 400sb. I know I should be able to pull the alternator to get to the block number but I was hoping until I had a chance to do that, someone may be able to give me an idea of what it is by using the intake/exhaust manifolds numbers. I've also listed some numbers from off the front and rear diff's, transfer case, and tranny in case anyone could tell me for sure what these are...

    Intake Manifold - 14057055
    Exhaust Manifold - 384753
    Transmission - 14038651
    Transfer Case - C15085
    Front Diff - 14030376
    Rear Diff - 14055251

    Thanks for any information you can provide!
     
  2. doc70sub

    doc70sub 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    There is a number on the top rear of the block, behind the intake, just before the bellhousing in 1/4-1/2" numerals that will identify your block. Most of the other components are interchangeable between most of the SB Chevrolets. Hope this helps!
    Doc
     
  3. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    I managed to read the engine date/suffix off my block without removing the alternator (it's a pickup if that makes a diff). You just have to be creative about getting a rag in there to wipe the crud off of it. The number at the back of the block the other poster referred to is the casting # which is useful to know exactly what block you have but is harder to get at.

    The number on the front, passenger side of the block, facing up, just where the head meets the block is good enough to determine if it's a 305, 350, or 400. Write it down and search the web for something like "smallblock chevy engine codes". In fact if you do the search first, you'll see pictures of exactly where to look. Hmm, I just did that search and the decoder I used didn't show up. A lot of casting # decoders are out there at least...
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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  5. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: VIN\'s

    The harmonic balancer has a different shape than the other small blocks. Instead of being smooth all the way around, there will be some type of cutout on the back half of it. A big one that should be easy to see.
     
  6. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Most 400 SBC's were externally balanced (just like the BBC's) so the harmonic balancer and flywheel should have notches or blocks on them for weight. You can have an internally balanced 400 SBC that uses a 350 flywheel and balancer, but it requires machining of the crank/block in order to achieve a balanced reciprocating assembly.
     
  7. 84K5cedric

    84K5cedric 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Do you mean around the outer edge? It is not perfectly round around the outer edge, there is a cutout or at least a section where it is no longer following the same line (or in this case circumference). Does this mean for sure its a 400 or that its just not a 305 or 350, or am I understanding you wrong all together?
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Just get the suffix code and be done with it. Passenger side head, behind the alternator, flat pad, read it by looking straight down from above. 2 or 3 letter code. Probably starts with a C or T(?) if its a truck block.
     
  9. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    You still want those suffix codes for 4-bolt 350s? I think we've got a grenaded race motor or two up at the shop.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Sure!

    If you have block chunks, I'd like to get a couple of those too! (small ones) Would like to know if "010" or "020" are cast into the block either, along with casting number.

    Not only am I compiling the suffix codes, I'm also trying to round up enough different block samples to make sending them to a metallurgist worthwhile.

    Gonna find out authoritatively if 010 or 020 means anything besides what people have *heard* it means.
     
  11. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Hi dyeager535

    What type of info on codes are you looking for? I have compiled a very large Access database of codes over the years. I have thousands of comfirmed codes for most major components like suffix, intake, heads, water pumps, etc...

    The 3970010 block was a unconfirmed 68 327, 69 302 4 bolt, 69 to 79 350 in both 2 and four bolt with hp from 185 to 370.

    The 3970020 was just a 307 from 69 to 73 2 bolt from 115 to 200 hp.

    Suffix codes can be misleading for several reasons. Take the 69 Z28, the code is DZ and it could have been the 3970010, 3932386,3932388,or the 3956618.

    Here's another example - Suffix code TKL for 1978. It was for a 350cid C-20 to 3500 and the 400cid K-10 & 1500


    The suffix code, casting number, and date codes can tell you alot but they are not rock solid from a collectors point of view. The worst is trying to guess at the mains, are they two or four bolts? The only sure way is to pull the pan on common blocks like the 010. There are others that you can tell for sure but its rare.

    Let me know what info you are looking for and I'll see if I can help.

    Known 400 suffix codes:

    CAT
    CDL
    CDM
    CGR
    CHS
    CKP
    CLK
    CLP
    CRH
    CSA
    CSB
    CSC
    CSD
    CSF
    CSH
    CSJ
    CSK
    CSL
    CSM
    CSR
    CSS
    CST
    CSU
    CSW
    CSX
    CTA
    CTB
    CTC
    CTD
    CTJ
    CTK
    CTL
    CTM
    CTR
    CTS
    CTU
    CTW
    CTX
    CTY
    CTZ
    CZX
    TKL
    TLA
    TLB
    TLC
    TLD
    TLF
    TLH
    TLJ
    TLK
    TLL
    TLM
    TLR
    TLS
    TLT
    TLU
    TLW
    TLX
    TLY
    TLZ
    TTB
    TTC
    TTJ
    TTM
    TTR
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Yeah I'm not concerned with block casting numbers vs. suffix. I'm concerned with ID'ing 2 vs 4 bolt blocks while looking in a wrecking yard, or buying one from someone, knowing that you can't pull the pan for whatever reason to verify.

    It's not that big of a deal, usually you can pull the pan, but its kind of made me curious. GM went through a fair amount of trouble to use Suffix Codes, and since 4 bolt mains *typically* were used only in "heavy duty" or "performance" applications, those applications can be traced by suffix codes.

    Yes, a few suffix codes have been repeated, but they seem to be near identical applications, just different years. Until I get two blocks with identical suffix code, but ones 2 and ones 4 bolt, I'm going to keep compiling the 2 vs4 bolt suffix code list.

    www.nastyz28.com has a numbers decoding section which is the most extensive I have found online, besides a couple of exact copies of the same.
     
  13. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    I started my search for the same reason as you, to find 4-bolt blocks in junk yards. ;-)

    BTW - That site (IMO) has also ripped off that list of numbers. So has the link in the other post. I am not sure where that list originated from but I have the same list in the exact same order with identical comments in a book I bought in 1996. I think the credit goes to a man named Pierre Lafontaine.

    Good luck with your search for 4 bolts, I found 2 this afternoon! Both carb to pan, one for $65 and one for $115. My lucky day :-)
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    Actually I'm just doing it to see if its true. Its said that there is no way to prove 4 bolt vs 2 bolt (except of course casting numbers that were only one or the other) so I'm trying to see if you *can* tell wth the suffix number. Already got 2 4 bolt main blocks, but anymore, it really doesn't seem that the additional strength is worth it. Not that I won't be running the ones I've got, but I'm sure a 2 bolt would be plenty adequate : )
     
  15. 84K5cedric

    84K5cedric 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    I thought I had found the pad, but after getting it cleaned off, all I find is shiny metal. Am I looking in the right spot? The picture below is from the passenger fender. You should be able to see the alternator and the right side valve cover in the pic for orientation. I drew a little red arrow pointing at the pad I'm looking at. It is angled with the top of the block on that side. Is this the right spot?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Rolled

    Rolled 1/2 ton status

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    Re: VIN\'s

    It looks like you are in the right spot. From the picture I can't tell if that is the head or the deck. Make sure you are looking on the deck of the block. It should be right in front of the head on the engine block.

    There was also an alternate location used in some applications. Not sure if it was ever used on the 400 though. The alternate location is behind the driver side head in the back on the transmission flange by the casting number.

    You might as well get out a flash light and get the casting number off the block while your at it. Oh ya, bring a rag for the grease too /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  17. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: VIN\'s

    If there is nothing there, I'd assume its been "decked". If there is an alternate location (not enough time to see if mortec.com shows it) then I'd check there too. Casting number would be the next thing I'd look at.

    Not real common outside of racing (in my experience) to have the block decked enough to take those numbers off, but if on the 2 rebuild, I guess the block MIGHT have warped enough to require that much "clean up".
     

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