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Washing machine leak???

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by BowtieBlazer, Oct 19, 2004.

  1. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    CK5 Handypeople:
    I have come across a new problem. Well my washer and dryer are outside my house in my shop...this summer I was welcomed with a busted drain hose and a water bill from hell to follow along with a wet shop floor for a few days. Fixed that and now have a bit different of a problem, the water seams to seap out from the bottom of the machine during the spin cycle... So now I don't get the continuous water flow on fill, just get the wet shop floor, the baffling part is 80% of the water still drains out of the drain hose.....it started this about two weeks ago and each cycle seems to make it worse any ideas of where to start? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  2. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Might be the pump. The pump runs just before and during the spin cycle.Check the hoses also.
    Either that Or the big outer plastic drum that holds the water has a crack in it. I have had both things happen to me.
    Pull the machine out and take off the back to so you can see whats going on. Fill it up and put it on spin and look for leaks.
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I just replaced my washing machine a week ago. Sears has them cheap now. Under $300.00 to replace, money well spend.
     
  4. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    got a friend selling a relatively new one for $200 just hate to drop the cash on a new one this one may be 5 yrs old
     
  5. hi pinion

    hi pinion 3/4 ton status

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    Ok.......i agree with the getting a new wahing machine as well.So, get the new wahing machine,and if the problem continues, if you are on a slab foundation out there,and it continues,and you cant find water leaking from anywhere, it might be a slab leak /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif i would get the new machine.A slab leak is a leak under the concrete. If your wanter bill is crazy still, it might be leaking where you cant see.........
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Model Number ? I can help if I know what kind it is , I manage an Appliance parts store in AZ /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. hi pinion

    hi pinion 3/4 ton status

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    Not to jump the gun,but ive seen this a thousand times. Usually theres a reason why the big bill is there,usually you will have something to tip you off like the machine. But if it continues, after he gets the new machine,and he cant see anything leaking ,it may be a slab leak.Witch can be fixed 2 ways. #1 =jackhammer and repair or #2 RE-PIPE /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    The bills have resumed the usual cost, so I doubt its a slab leak, hadn't had wet concrete before these last few weeks in quite sometime. When it was the hose, it would never kick into the wash cycle it stayed on the refill and flooded everything, this runs full cycle, just leaves me with a wet floor.....

    G.E. model: WCXR1070TAWW
     
  9. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Sorry to say you are the owner of a not so great washer . I sell tooo mny parts for these , from timers to transmissions .

    These "new" style GE's have an electric pump , usually they burn out , get weak , or get a sock stuck in them , they are o-ringed and rarely leak .

    The water level switches do go out often though , and that makes it overfill or underfill , that could be a possiblity .


    The other possibilty is that it is slinging water over the top of the tub . These had a problem when they first came out of the transmission wanting to agitate and spin at the same time . GE willl warranty the transmission for 5 years , so if its under that the parts are free . And sells a fix kit if its out of warranty , but its pricey .

    What you can do yourself is watch the machine with the lid switch depressed ( your model is mechanical switch ) and the lid up ( be careful ) and see whats its doing .

    You can also make sure the little vacuum hose from the water level ( also called pressure switch ) switch is attached to the tub properly and is clear with no blockage .

    And finally you can make a jumper cord with an old extension cord ( pump runs on 110 ) and make sure the pump works . A little water in the hose is normal as anything in the hose will fall from gravity when pump stops .

    What I reccommend though is selling that at a yard sale and getting a used Whirlpool , several years old with knobs and no electronics . Or a new Whirlpool with knobs and no electronics .
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

    BTW go here Lookups and type in your model , its a free sears site where you can look at the pictures from the GE CD rom without being in a parts store , will show your machine breakdown /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    After watching this thread... I want to hijack with a problem I'm having...

    I have a 1 or two year old washer (knobs), I think it's a whirlpool. It seems to not really remove much water after spin cycle. My wife is constantly complaining that they're still wet. It's (supposed to be) a heavy duty washer, too, so I can't imagine it's already wearing or a belt is wearing out.

    Any thoughts on what to check first?

    Bowtie, sorry for the hijack, I just figured it economical to ask another washer question where the knowledge is hanging out!
     
  11. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Whirlpools after 1985 do not have belts , they have a motor coupling not unlike a rag joint on our trucks steering box . The pump is direct drive of the opposite side of motor ( dual shaft motor ) . Pump could be cracked where the drive enters it , won't spin enough , also if you are missing socks look for one in the pump ,it happens often . A little wet is normal though , not sopping wet , but damp . Worn clutch will also not wring enough water out . Yours is a lot cheaper and easier to fix /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  12. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    hey no offense taken....I just posted because I figured someone on this board knew their stuff.

    Pauly you know your stuff. I appreciate the advice...I'll look into mine and give my friend a call to see what type he is selling again.... /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    Thanks!
     
  13. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Josh, let's just hijack this thread completely...

    *start of hijack* Hey pauly... which brand of the new washer/ dryers is most reliable and/or easy to reapir? Maytag? Meile? Any feedback on the new Maytag dryer with the hanger/sweater dryer thingy? *end of hijack*
     
  14. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Maytag is now a company making products for its stockholders , cheaper machines with designs from the companies they purchased . Stay away from anything that says NEPTUNE , seriously . However they still make a GREAT refrigerator which is a design they got by buying Admiral years ago .

    Meile , Haeir , LG , Asko , Bosch , and other foriegn brands are probably good , but sell in so few numbers I haven't had an opportunity to sell parts for them .

    I prefer Whirlpool ( which includes Kirkland ,Kitchen Aid , and Roper ) as they are still pretty easy to fix , they are still in Michigan , and the parts are mostly made in USA , Canada , and Mexico .

    I also like the Frigidaire Dryer , but I do not like Frigidaire washers or fridges .

    Dishwashers it doesn't really matter , they are wet/dry storage cabinents . You have to have good city water and rinse them off to get good results regardless of brand /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  15. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks pauly - great info! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     

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