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Watch out for one situation with offset Zero Rates

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Stephen, Feb 28, 2002.

  1. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    One problem to watch out for is using them on the front axle with crossover steering. This can cause draglink to leaf spring interference. Before you get too excited about using them on a front make sure there's room to move your draglink down 1" compared to the right leaf spring.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
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  2. yunit

    yunit 1/2 ton status

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    Also, running the zero rates up front kind of kill plans for anyone wanting to run a high steer unless they space out the high steer arms.

    1987 Jimmy Sierra Classic, Palisades Park, NJ 07650
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  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Ok you got me confuse here. I plan on doing a crossover hopefully soon. Just oredered the Zero rates to help solve a clearence issue with the fender.
    What's a work around on this? Steering block? different model arm?
    Moving the drag link down one inch seem to me that it would cause more interference.
    I plan to pull one or more leafs out of these stiff Ranch springs I'm running. Will this help the issue?
    On to my original question I was going to ask.
    Will moving the axle forward give me the clearence needed on the stock crossmember?
    Thanks

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
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  4. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    With a Dana 60 if I run into this problem could I just get a spacer made to go under the steering arm?

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  5. Zepplin

    Zepplin 1/2 ton status

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    Will I still have clearance issues if I'm running the high steer set-up on a Dana 60 with 10" leaf springs?

    74 Blazer
    Zepplin
    Check out my Blazer
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  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    High steer setups are a definite situation to watch out for. Depending on the arm design you could easily have problems with clearing the tie rod to the springs.

    Sorry about the confusion grim, I know we talked about it a lot then I finally thought of the potential problem 3 days later. It's not the fore and aft location of the axle that causes the problem, it's just the height relative to the knuckle. It's not a guaranteed problem, but something to watch out for. My crossover worked with a 2 5/8" spring pack in front with the D44 crossover so it may not be a problem for you but you need to be aware.
    Hope this helps

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Thanks Stephen.
    I'll have to watch out for that then. Parts came in yesterday. One thing I have some more confusion on after reading the instructions is using this with zero offset. With the center hole being recessed so that they will not be any spring interference how are you supose to rn with no offset. I'm concerned that running a double nut or inverting the center pin will alow too much leverage on the bolt and risk shearing the pin.
    Also have a concern about the polly body mounts being correct. The box was open. The box says 73-77 but the instructions IN the box are for a 78-91. Pouring rain so I haven't had a chance to match mounts to locations to make sure these are correct. Is it comon for Daystar to include wrong instructions?
    Thanks

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
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  8. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Grim on the offsets to run the pin in the center hole just put the open section for the nut up to the spring and let the pin stick through the top which will inturn be the bottom if not using the offset.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  9. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Grim, the rounded edges always go up, so you just run the center pin through the center hole just like a normal leaf if you want the axle in stock location.
    I've seen instruction mixups before, check the part #'s and locations. A lot of the instructions are very similar so it's probably not a big deal. But if your bushing #'s match up to the ones on the wrong instructions, we need to get some parts swapped.

    On the steering stuff, look at the pics Donimator put up on his crossover install. With the D60 there seems to be pretty good space between the draglink and spring, so it's something to watch for, not something that absolutely won't work.
     
  10. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Dah, what was I thinking. The center hole is the pin hole no matter what offset you use or no ofset at all.
     
  11. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    call me crazy or stupid or whatever...i am having trouble visualizing how to mount the zero rates with the offset...its been raining for a few days here and i havent had a chance to go out and actually look...can anybody enlighten me?

    Later
     
  12. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Ok the bushings are correct. The instuctions are printed funny. At the top it says 78-80 but what I didn't notice is the #3 position instuctions are included for both 73-77 and 78-80. Also was short one set of washers. That was no big deal because the 1 inch body lift I got. Also they say to use the 2.5 inch washers on the bottom of # 4 but they would hit the frame. I ended up using the 2 inch washers from #2 location on #4 to clear the frame. Used the 2.5's on #2. Little big but no clearence issue.
    Problems I did run into. The bolts that came with the 1 inch body lift were not right. I think they were the bolts from the 78 up I had to use the 6 inchers for the #3 position. Even so it didn't look like 6 inches were long enough for the #5 posisition. No big deal. I have a good Ace right up the road with a awsom selection of bolts. I used a 7 inch going through the tail pan.
    Steering also got bound up. I heated the slip joint to melt the plastic and extended it about 3/4 of an inch. The T end where it goes up into the colum was trying to pull out. No big deal there. once the plastic cooled it locked it back down so no extra slop.
    Last problem is looks like I'm going to have to extend my shift linkage. I'm agout a 1/2 inch short. Well I need about a 1/4 more of an inch. I slid it all the way up till the end was just sticking through the adjuster and it's still not enough. Will not go into first gear. The rest of the gears are not hitting center. It gets park but R is just betrween R and N. Going to try to straighten the bend in the linkage a hair first and see if that's enough but concerned it will screw up the operating angle if I bend it to much.
    I also did it without removing the tank /forums/images/icons/smile.gif Figured out a way to deal with that bracket around the #5 mount. I have a custom bumper so I wasn't using the extra brackets to begine with. Even if I was there is a hole dirrectly below those locations so no problem to use a nut once the bracket it gone. Once I lifted the body up I was able to worm the bushing out. The bracket fell free. I layed the bracket in the bottom of the frame rail and slid it so the 90deg bend where it comes from the bushing down the frame rail was dirrectly below the hole in the frame and bed. Took a long 3/8's extension lined it up on the 90deg bend on the bracket and bent it close to flat. Then it could be wormed out between the top of the tank and frame rail. Just have to be very careful about the tail light wires. Dont want to get them pinched between the bracket and frame rail when you do this or they could be damaged.
    Putting in the nut and washers was not much harder. I taped the nut to the washer with some electrical tape. Stuck the socket with a long extension up throgh the hole in the bottom of the frame. slipped the washer and bolt assembly throgh the gap at the top of the tank and frame and set it in the socket. Slid the bushing in on top of that and got both sides first shot. That sure save a lot of fun dropping the tank.
    I got you pictures of what the brackets look like bent as well as how I taped the washer and nut. Plan to do a write up on it for the site so pretty good selection of pictures.
    Haven't had a chance to mess with the zero rates yet. Came home to find the Lady's 79 with a stream of anti freez running down the driveway. Ended up spending Saturday putting on a water pump. Put me a day behind on my truck.
    I'll let you know how I straighten out the shift linkage.
     
  13. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Played with the shift linkage. I don't know if mine was bent wrong or bent some time in the history of the truck.I disconnected it from the tranny side put the tranny in 1st to check the angles. Looked like I could take some bend out of the rod without any problems. Pulled the rod out and if had a slight bend after the hook where it attaches to the colum that really didn't look factory. Had the second bend that looked factory and a third bend a little farther down. I pretty well removed the third bend. I took a few degrees out of the second. The bend up at the hook was not where I could easily remove it so I left it there.
    Reinstalled it with the truck in 1st. Seemed to do the trick. I have a 1/4 inch sticking out the end of the adjustment end. I can get all the gears now.
    Also checked the clearend on the shifter for the 203. Looks like enough that no trimming is needed. The shifter I have I can adjust the angle of the shift a few degrees. If I have a problem it looks like that will be enough to do the trick.
    Overall it wasn't as bad a job as I was expecting. I have had to loosen my body bolts in the past, when I replaced the tail pan, so I knew they were free. The think what made it really easy was my rockers are bomb proof. Just jacked it up with a high lift and used a sissors jack to help. Took me about 7 hours of real work but I was taking it easy. Stopped a few times for pictures.
    Still need to sort out the shroude. I'm leaning towards going to an electric fan. Trying to locate one of a 90's Ford V8. they had some real healthy electrics. Then use a sensor like the factory uses into the head.
    With my custom bumpers it doesn't even really look like it has a body lift. The gap between the bed and frame rail isn't that noticable. The only place you really notice it is from behind you can see the pucks at the tail pan.
    Over all I think I'm happy. Just got to get use to the extra noise the polly's transmit. Truck feels much more solid overall. My mounts were done and long overdue for replacement. The case was hitting the floor under hard acceleration or heavy load. The frame was hitting the floor on the passenger side when I had passengers LOL.
     
  14. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    hey grim,
    maybe you can help me out with my prior question...i am trying to move my front end up 1.5 inches and i dont know which bolts to use where and how to mount the zero rates...like i said before im trying to visualize here as i havent been able to get out to the truck and see...can you help me out a little?

    Later
     
  15. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    rebel, the center pin always goes in the middle hole on the block. You'll just cut it off short and use a nut to bolt it into the block if you're using the offset feature. Then you use the 3/8" bolt to bolt the new leaf to the bottom of your spring pack using the existing center pin hole in your leaf springs. Drill a new clearance hole in your ubolt plate for the nut on top of the spring pack and you're ready to bolt it all up.
    We're planning to get some pics in our instructions as soon as we put another set on a truck here.
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well If I beat you to the pictures I'll send them. Might get around to installing the fronts this week.
     
  17. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    thanks guys...its starting to make sense to me now...pics would be great...plus i can get outside to work on it on sat. so i might figure it out...

    Later
     
  18. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    How has the zero rate project gone for you guys? Do you have pictures of the install yet?
     
  19. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Grim,

    In reference to the original post by Stephen.

    Here is an excellent tip I learned from thebigdaddyof2 (Todd). Take a stock steering arm and cut it off just even with the knuckle. Use this as your spacer, it has the holes already drilled. Weld this to your new steering arm to raise it 1".

    Luckily, the fabricator of my steering arm built in a 1" block.
     

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