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Websites for electrical stuff

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Jan 9, 2002.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    What are some good sites where I can do some window shoping for battery stuff like isolators, auxilary kits, and all that kewl stuff?
    And what brands do you all recommend that dont cost an arm and a leg!

    Still hoping the GOV'T will ban the use of loud stereos with RAP music. [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    TTT, come on, nobody?

    Still hoping the GOV'T will ban the use of loud stereos with RAP music. [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  3. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    WranglerNW (My Jimmy with all her projects!
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I read your right up and it looks good. Do you have the manufacture names or store names and models of the stuff you bought like the 200 amp solenoid?
    Wrangler is very very expensive. Hellroaring is looking more promising unless you have some better info on where and what parts you got locally.
    My neighbor is an electrician. Not particularly geared toward DC power but is calling around to his contacts to try and locate all this stuff for me locally. But if all else should fail I'll get the Hell roaring 180 or 200 amp isolater.

    Still hoping the GOV'T will ban the use of loud stereos with RAP music. [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  5. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I got the circuit breakers locally at Radio Shack. You could probably get the fuse blocks there, too, if you wanted to add teh additional circuits like I have. If you just want to go dual batteries, get a toggle switch from Radio Shack. Get you a continuous duty solenoid from a local discount auto parts store (where I got mine) or and RV or marine supply place. Mine is a 200A rated device designed for use in an RV or a boat. Cost me like $40 I believe. Then, you can buy you some good old battery cables at Walmart and get some terminal ends for connecting them to the solenoid from your electrician friend. If you want to get fancy and make your own cables, get the necessary ends from a military supply place (for the big military-style clamps like I used) or regular ends from your friend and get some heavy guage, fine stranded cable from a local hi-performance audio place (somewhere that does big car stereos). Then you are pretty well set.

    If you decide just to buy a pre-built setup, I would definitely go with the Hellroaring model. I was most impressed with their setup and would have gone that route if I hadn't built my own. And, BTW, this was my first electrical project EVER.

    Gto questions, let me know!

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  6. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, according to all the technical pages that I've just read today say that the solenoid deal is not as good as purchasing an isolator. So I guess thats my biggest question, how the hell do you know who to trust? I mean Hell roaring says you need to get an isolator, Wrangler says you need to get and isolator. So I think Im gonna wait till I figure out for sure what the difference in an isolator and a solenoid is.

    Still hoping the GOV'T will ban the use of loud stereos with RAP music. [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  7. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know enough about the difference to be of any help there. However, from my rudimentary knowledge I do know that the solenoid acts simply as a big switch in the circuit. When I have it switched on, the two batteries, all their circuits, and the alternator are connected. When it is switched off, they are completely independent. And, the solenoid offers a higher throughout than my alternator is rated at (alt = 180A, solenoid = 200A). But, I don't know what the isolator offers that the solenoid doesn't.

    I just read some of the stuff on the Hellroaring website again about the drawbacks of the solenoid. As I stated, the solenoid is essentially a big switch. I have mine wired to another switch that turns the solenoid on or off. The controlling switch has three psoitions. In the normal position, it draws power from the ignition circuit. Hence, if the ignition is on, the switch will draw enough power from the main battery (very little) to throw the solenoid and connect the two batteries. If the engine is running and the alternator is functioning properly, the charge will be split between the two batteries charging the weakest one until its charge equals the other. Then the charge will be split equally between the two batts. When they both reach full charge, the internal alternator regulator (one sensing models) will cease to charge. If, however, the alternator IS NOT functioning properly, the engine and its accessories will discharge BOTH batteries. And, if the vehicle dies, both batts are dead.

    In the second position, the solenoid is simply turned off. No power is sent to it so the batteries are fully disconnected. This also means the alternator is not charging the second battery. If your primary battery fails or if the alternator dies, you can switch to the second battery for starting (main batt dead) or run on the second battery for a while as you get to safety.

    The third position draws the power to throw the solenoid from the secondary battery. If the primary battery is SO dead that it can't even throw the solenoid, then you wouldn't be able to activate it and use your second battery for emergency starting. However, with this switch position, you can draw the power to throw the solenoid from the second battery which is still good and start it right up and run. The risk is that if you leave it in this position and turn off the vehicle, the batteries are still connected (when connected to the ignition they aren't when the ign is off) and you could drain both batts.

    The only place I see any added value is if the alternator fails. From what I am understanding, the Hellroaring setup will detect this and disconnect the batts. Hence, if your main one fails, you can still start and run for a bit off the second one. I get around this with my setup by leaving the batts fully disconnected most of the time. I don't use my secondary battery much (backup starting, aux lighting circuits). So, when I do and for a bit thereafter, I leave the batteries connected on IGN so that the secondary batt gets charged back up. Then, after some time, I assume the secondary battery is charged again and manually disconnect them. While I could still forget and levae them connected, I am only at risk when an alternator dies. I leave my lights or radio on more often than I have an alternator die. And that is where I am best protected for a lot less money this way.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I bought 11' of 2/0 battery cable along with copper lugs from the local NAPA along with brass "Marine/Military" battery terminals (with the wing nuts and studs for lugs). Don't remember the cost but it was less than $20 even with 11' of cable. Then I got a simple RV battery switch (#1, #2, both, none) for something like $15 and it is rated to 350 amps. It's about 4" in diameter with a heavy dial for a selector and 3/8" studs on the back for connection. Not as pretty as the fancy electrical kits but much simpler, more reliable, and MUCH cheaper.

    Total cost to hook up dual batteries AND relocated to the back, less than $40 (not counting batteries).

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  9. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, from everything I've read today, what you did will indeed work, however, from what I understand, unless Im overlooking something, is that the way you have yours set up is that when you run the switch on both you are gonna get some battery run off from the better battery to the lesser charged of the 2. Which is the only real major benefit that I can see so far that the isolator does.

    Still hoping the GOV'T will ban the use of loud stereos with RAP music. [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Generally, you don't run it on both. If you do, and the motor is running, it will charge both and there is no problem. You just don't want to leave it setting around on "both". Normally you put it on one battery or the other and run that for a week or so. Then you switch and run the other battery for a week or so. Nothing critical, but switching from one to the other keeps both fully charged and fresh. When you need the juice, like when winching or running camp equipment, throw it to "both" and let it go.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     

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