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Weight savings how important?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by pilgrim, Nov 29, 2002.

  1. pilgrim

    pilgrim 1/2 ton status

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    how effective and in what terain is being lighter helpful? my sub weighs in at 6900 pounds loaded with the standard stuff. But i'am sure if i was going on a trip up to the paper country of maine , i'd be loaded to like 7250 or something. In snow and mud which is where i'll mostly be, i think light weight would be very heplful. So lets say i'am running a 14.5 wide tire with a contact patch of (rough guess) 1160 square inchs for all 4 tires. that puts 6.25 pounds per sq". if i run 16" tires that drops to 5.7 pounds which is the same as if i went from 7250 to 6612 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
    This is all guess work math but it does show that there is a differance of over 600 pounds /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

    So than in the real world which is better tryng to lose 600 pounds or running a wider tire? anyone got any other thoughts on this?
     
  2. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    weight is bad in the world of motorsports. Dr. Watson put his rig on a drastic diet. A moderate diet is best for the rest of us.

    Less weight = less stress on parts which = less breakage.

    A Sami with D44's is damn near bomb-proof, whereas Fullsize rigs can spit D44 rears out as a snack
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    which is better tryng to lose 600 pounds or running a wider tire?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Probably BOTH! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I've heard both sides of the arguement as far a wider tire vs. taller and narrower tire. Some believe that a big "baloony" tire will keep you from sinking into the mud and let you float across it. I've heard another theory that you should try to get a tire tall enough to reach through all the soupy mud to get down to where there is traction underneath.

    My own personal experiences driving in snow were that swapping out my wide, low profile tires for a set of winter "skinnies" seemed to give me more predictable traction......but that's a car, so maybe the logic isn't transportable to a heavy K5 (or Suburban!) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Don't forget in your lbs/sqin calcs that tire pressure can greatly increase your "contact patch", so even with a skinnier tire, you could get a much LARGER contact area by airing WAY down.

    Maybe that's a way to test your theory with a single set of tires? Run a section of trail at full pressure, then air down and run another section....see which way feels BETTER.


    Maybe this spring when I'm finally unpacked (and living in NH), we can get together and look for some mud for "experiments"!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif My tires are WIDE (38.5 x 16.5 x 16) so that will be a good data point.
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    There is a rock ledge around here that we all like to challenge. Some make it and some dont. I didnt untill I was able to lose 600 pounds off of my vehicle. Now I can go right up. I am looking to lose more now...
     
  5. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Think about it this way, would YOU want to carry an extra 50 or 60 lbs up a hill in a backpack? That's what your drivetrain has to do with everything you put on it. The contact pressure debate will always rage on but no matter what weight is bad.

    That said, practically speaking you can do a lot with "weight managment". What I mean is makeing sure you optimize what you can without getting carried away. Stuff like keeping your gear stored down low, not carrying stuff you don't need, running a soft top on a K5, keeping bumpers, nerfs, and any other add ons down to the necessary weight and no more, getting people out of the truck on big hills or problem areas, etc. This is all stuff that's pretty easy to live with and can make a good difference.
    The most overall useful weight with my K5 was just before the supercrawl when I could still run the tailgate, doors and a soft top. At that point I could still wheel in nasty weather and stay dry and warm but it didn't have anything it didn't need. Now I've compromised the foul weather use in favor of all out ability which is really cool when it's nice out.
    All stuff to ponder.
     
  6. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Stephen, you have several rigs which are purpose built. Would you mind posting a pic of a few of them to show how you've applied that weight savings (some more extreme than others) and which ones your using for which terrains. I never get tired of looking at your trucks, great work!
     
  7. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'd have to go with the wider tire theory. around here when your stuck in gumbo (literally sucks you down) its better to have wide tires that can crab the side of a rut or a tree root to sling you out of it. unless of course the guy in front had wider tires. wider tires amke the mud coat more evenly /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif so your windshield wipers quit working for the weight. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    nathan
     
  8. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    alot of the FAST guys at the local mud drags run wide tires out rear and skinny ones in the front to me I would kinnda think it would be work better the otherway around keeping the front end floating and let the rear dig but then traction might not be there in the rear but I really think they run the skinnys up front so they can steer better.
     
  9. jeffro

    jeffro 1/2 ton status

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    One part of the formula missing here is balance. I added much weight to the rear of my toyota to improve crawling ability. I found that if I loaded up several hundred lbs of junk in the back it climbed better, Of course that's apples and oranges since the K5 is heavier all over than a toy.
     

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