Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Welded u-joint caps?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BadDog, May 15, 2003.

  1. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I'm getting my 35 spline stub D60 axles ready to go in and I am considering (spot) welding the caps to the shafts. I know others have done this, but I'm undecided. I've heard that the clip popping out is one of the main causes of failure. With new Spicer inner and outer 35 spline shafts along with the Spicer forged joints, I'm a little reluctant to weld on them, but I’m even more reluctant to take a chance on breaking them. Maybe just tack the clips onto the caps? But most weld the caps to the shaft yokes. I can’t believe I’ll ever wear out a u-joint so maybe I should just do it…

    Search didn’t turn up anything so I thought I would just throw it out…
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    <font color="green"> I would at least wait to see if you actually have a problem with the caps walking out. I used to have that problem on my D44 but it turned out that the holes for the caps were a bit worn. Having the yokes machined to put full circle snaprings on might be a better idea than welding the caps in. </font>
     
  3. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    I know Tim at 4x4 Iron does that on his D60 shafts. He suggested I do it to so that my 1/2 tons axleshafts will last longer. He said when he ran 1/2 ton he got 2x the life out of the axle after taching the cap in place.

    I am going to do it when I swap my joints for my spare shafts, and also next time when I pull my shafts that are in the axle now.

    I personally would do it just to be safe. You could always use a dremel and grind out the tach weld when you got the shafts back to the shop so you could install a new joint. (assuming you have a spare to put in, which knowing you you do)

    Just find a second set of shafts for trail spares, and keep the 30 spline hubs onboard incase you need to install the spare axle. This way you don't have to buy another set of outers and hubs.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I'm concerned that by the time I find out they are walking out, it will be too late... I thought about full circles too, but tacking is basically free and supposed to be stronger...
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    That's exactly what I was thinking. I've got a complete set, left and right, with my old 30 spline stubs and hubs for spares. So, do you just put a 1/4" spot weld on the shaft side? Shouldn't take much at all to just keep the cap in place. Smaller and less penetration (on the cap at least) should be sufficient AND make it easy to remove if/as needed. I'm thinking start the arc on the axle, let it burn just a little, then touch the cap briefly, done... Also don't want to cook the grease or seal. Sound about right?
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    BTW, the reason I'm stepping up the effort for "bullet proof" is the soon to be completed (god, I hope!) doubler. Things are going to get squeezed allot more with the additional gearing turning 42s. This is going to be approaching the limits of the D60 (and other parts of my drive train) and I really don't like breaking...
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2001
    Posts:
    8,972
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Peoria, AZ
    I think Tim's were tached in 2 places on each cap. I don't think it really matter where the tachs are as long as they are 180* from each other. His welds were pretty small. They might have been 1/4" or maybe smaller. Just enough really to get the cap attached to the shaft.
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2001
    Posts:
    4,606
    Likes Received:
    0
    other then some time with a file and purchasing a couple snap rings, going full circle retainers is fairly 'free' is it not?
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Hmmm, can it be done by hand with a file? I figured a mill was requied to do it right. I considered a dremel, but figured that was not a place to be ghetto-rigging. I'll have to take a closer look and think about it more. There still setting there in pristine new shape so, it's not too late...
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I looked at them again, and I don't see how it could be done with a file, a mill would be hard enough. Maybe a grinding wheel on a pencil Dremel attachment going in from the opposite ear… hmmm… I've never actually seen a D60 axle modified for full circle, but it looks like the machined surface would need to be cut back (parallel to the shaft) about 0.05 or so in an arc to clear a full clip (depending on the size). Cutting it straight looks like it would weaken the ears too much, already the weak point. Should it be tapered or radiused for strength? I had written it off due to the machine work I thought it required but now you have me intrigued…

    Got pics or better instructions for those of us (like me) too slow to figure it out? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2001
    Posts:
    4,606
    Likes Received:
    0
    i would just file it straight accross
     
  12. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,307
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Gilbert, AZ
    Russ,

    Although I'm not a big dawg like you Russ, meaning running a D60 in the front /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif.

    I do however in my "I'm not worthy" 1/2 ton D44 tack all of my caps on both sides of my axles. I have noticed that the caps don't move as much. No real big deal, just try not to run too hot of a tack, if you don't have greasable joints.

    Keep in mind I still run stock joints and stock shafts. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I would reccoment to anyone that runs hard, to tack the caps. The caps will move after some time, and it eventally waddles out the ears on the shafts.

    Just my .02.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Rob
     

Share This Page