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Welder?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bigchevy80, Jan 11, 2004.

  1. bigchevy80

    bigchevy80 Registered Member

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    Im borrowing a welder from one of my dads freinds todo the body work on my truck. The only problem is that he could ask for it back any day...so that lead me to....What is a good welder for everyrthing? It also has to be relitivy cheep maybe no more than $500. I dont only wanna it to do body work but also good for fabracation and thing of that nature. The one were borrowing is a Miller and i really like it, but Millers are so darn exspensive! So could you guys help me find the perfict welder? /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Lincoln SP-135T.

    Mig, wirefeed, flux-core/gas welder. Set up for welding gas, but doesn't come with the bottle. $430 shipped, new, from an online store via Ebay.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    135 amps, so that will run on 110, right?
     
  4. steedalx

    steedalx 1/2 ton status

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    Yes it runs on a standard 110 outlet. I am buying this welder once I get some extra cash saved up. I have compared a bunch of different brands and models and I think this is the best bang for the buck.
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If you REALLY want a good flexible welder, look at a Hobart 175. It's 220, but can handle 1/4 easily. I've got the Miller version of that welder and I've not had any regrets (other than I would love a 210 with a spool gun). It's done everything I've needed (except the aluminum /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif ) including welding 1/2 plate with multiple pass. Those 110 machines are nice in that you can plug them in anywhere you can find a high amp 110 circuit, but there so limited it's just not worth it. I considered one for a short time before buying mine, and I'm *SO* glad I decided to go up to the 175...
     
  6. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    I'd have to say for all around use and flexibility I would go with the Miller sp135. 110volts which works anywhere there is an open outlet. Will do 1/4" well if you do the proper prep work and run .035 wire. You can also run .017 wire and do the really really thin stuff.
    I wouldn't be at all afraid to weld any rollcage out their with my MILLER 135.

    220 would be nice but I bet you'd be hard pressed to take it with you and guarantee yourself an outlet. If money is no object get both. Heck get a tig while you are at it.

    If money is tight I'd go with a 110. If you got something really heavy to weld up. Tack it up good with your 110 and take it to the weld shop. For the 10 bucks they might charge you to finish up you can go a long ways to make up the difference in cost. Just my opinion though.
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Isn't that about $800? That's the one I was considering until I heard this $400 one mentioned.

    Is there a reason not to use a stick welder for stuff thicker than 3/16" or so? I know it's easier to MIG it and it looks nicer, but it seems you can save so much money by going with a smaller MIG, and even a cheap stick welder can do 3/8" or even 1/2" plate in my very limited previous experience.

    Keep in mind I'm only asking here as I've only done a little bit of welding but I intend to invest in some equipment and hone my skills. Is my thinking completely flawed in that a decent 110 volt MIG for body panels and exhaust and stuff would work along with a stick welder for heavy stuff? This is what all my farmer friends have too, only my one buddy who's a welding fanatic has a 220 volt MIG.

    Please feel free to correct me if I'm completely off on this one.
     
  8. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    I have the Lincoln 3200HD which is similar to the SP-135. It says it can do up to 5/16" thick, but it does seem a little week. However, for the money it seems like a great way to go as a hobbyist. Will do almost any project the average guy is gonna do to his truck if done properly. Being able to plug in almost anywhere is also really nice.

    220 would probably be really nice to have, but I personally do not weld enough to justify it. If that ever changes I am sure I can sell the 110 pretty easily and upgrade.
     
  9. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I dont only wanna it to do body work but also good for fabracation and thing of that nature. The one were borrowing is a Miller and i really like it, but Millers are so darn exspensive! So could you guys help me find the perfict welder? /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    First off a good welder is hard to find under $500 bucks that I have seen. I have a little dinky miller 110 wire feed and it sucks for anything much thicker than sheet metal, 110 welders are fine for body work but you are talking about fabrication on ,I'm guessing,frames, cages axles, stuff where some heavy steel and good hot welds are needed. I would NOT use a little 110 welder for that kind of work. You will need to step up to a 220 mig or arc welder to do any heavy guage hot welding for fabrication.
     
  10. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    There are some 110 machines out there that are great. I have a Lincoln SP-125 and it has my bases covered no problem. I bet the SP-135 is just a tad better. I would have no qualms unleashing mine on cages and such.

    But just like tires, gears, drivetrains, apparently this subject has ten million differing opinions /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  11. bigchevy80

    bigchevy80 Registered Member

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  12. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 110 cambell husfeld 110 85A el cheapo model ($200). It does 3/16 easily but won't do body work (only has low & high) I have used a lincon, a miller and a hobart also. Any of those three are good units in 110. The lincon has the benefit of parts availability (home depot, lowes, ect.) A good 220 won't be found for around $500. Big downside of 110 either way is duty cylcle (usually less than 20% /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif)
     
  13. bigchevy80

    bigchevy80 Registered Member

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  14. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    There are some 110 machines out there that are great. I have a Lincoln SP-125 and it has my bases covered no problem. I bet the SP-135 is just a tad better. I would have no qualms unleashing mine on cages and such.

    But just like tires, gears, drivetrains, apparently this subject has ten million differing opinions /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Well good I'm glad a 110 has worked out for you! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifI prefer a good arc welder over anything because I spend most of my welding time on 48' spread axle trailers and farm implements where a weld will be under lots of stress and I wouldn't think about touching anything like or near that with my miller 110. It is good for thin stuff and/or spots where a lot of stress wouldn't be applied to it. I have used a miller 220 before and was amazed how much faster, hotter, and stronger the welds were compared to my dinky 110. It was big foot compared to a datsun pickup.
     
  15. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Well good I'm glad a 110 has worked out for you! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifI prefer a good arc welder over anything because I spend most of my welding time on 48' spread axle trailers and farm implements where a weld will be under lots of stress and I wouldn't think about touching anything like or near that with my miller 110. It is good for thin stuff and/or spots where a lot of stress wouldn't be applied to it. I have used a miller 220 before and was amazed how much faster, hotter, and stronger the welds were compared to my dinky 110. It was big foot compared to a datsun pickup.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You really should try a 220 volt MIG welder on that equipment if you can afford one. You should see the beads my buddy puts down with his, even in thick stuff. He can burn a hole in a truck frame with his.

    [​IMG]

    Ugly as hell, but you should see the bead on the "L" bracket below that. PERFECT, full penetration, and it's held up fine with the use I've put it to. That was done with my buddies MIG.

    Although I agree with you, stick works great for thick stuff and is much cheaper.

    But hell, for less than $600 you can have that Hobart 175 to your door! I think I'm going to get that one.
     
  17. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    i can vouche for the Hobart 175. i took a long time to decide, asked a few pro welder friends, and thats what i decided on. very, very happy with it. think i paid 550 with no bottle..
     
  18. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Yeah, thats what I used was a miller 220volt. We actually have a lincoln 220volt wire feed that I have never used because my dad let my grandpa keep it in his shop because we were having probs with theft at the time. We have yet went and picked it up because we just got used to using our gas powered 400 amp miller arc welder. That thing is
    I learned how to weld with that welder and love it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    I would get that wire feed if thats what you want Tim... The 110's are nice to have it around for quick small jobs and they are very portable. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif One job that I wan't to try my 110 miller out on is exhaust, it seems that it would be the perfect welder for a job like that./forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  19. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I want both actually. I think I'm better with the stick welder, but the MIG is coming to me and the welds look so much nicer. I wish I'd started with MIG though honestly, because although it's a little weird at first, once you get going and get it set up correctly, it's great.

    I believe that my frame stuff above was welded with a 250 amp MIG. I know the guy paid like $1500+ for it and I believe it was a Miller. Either way, it does some sweet stuff.

    Although I wouldn't mind having a stick welder, I think if I end up being able to afford that 175 A MIG instead of a 125 A MIG and a stick welder, I'll take the 175 MIG. You can do almost anything with a nice hot MIG.

    The main reason I want it though is to do body work. I've got to make a pretty cab for my truck, the one that is on it right now is DONE!! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  20. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]

    Although I wouldn't mind having a stick welder, I think if I end up being able to afford that 175 A MIG instead of a 125 A MIG and a stick welder, I'll take the 175 MIG. You can do almost anything with a nice hot MIG.

    The main reason I want it though is to do body work. I've got to make a pretty cab for my truck, the one that is on it right now is DONE!! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I agree, having both is nice especially when you wan't fancy welds(no pun intended /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif). Migs are pretty easy, as long as it is set right...pull the trigger and go.

    Hows your DD project that you wan't coming along?
     

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