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welding body holes?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 76_Cheyenne, Jul 12, 2003.

  1. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    im going to paint my truck soon and i don;t like the trim so i removed it and am left with a bunch of holes. I heard the best way to take care of them is to weld them, then grind it smooth. Anyone done this, and can give me some tips? what kind of welder? Since theres so many holes in the front fenders from the trim, i'm just getting new fenders since the're only 33.75 a piece at a local place.
     
  2. tayv

    tayv Registered Member

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    Heyman,

    I going to have a welder here in a about a week and I would be glad to help you do them holes if you help me when I do my lift. I just live up in Bothell.
     
  3. JSH

    JSH Registered Member

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    I did the same thing on some trim holes and screw holes on mine. Don't forget to grind the paint off around the opening first to get a good weld. If the holes are just small ones like screw holes you should be able to just fill them with bead. It seemed to help to "dish" the hole in a little first so that it is lower than the surrounding surface. For one larger opening, I tacked a piece of sheet metal to the back and filled it with bead (assuming you can get at the back side)then grind surface smooth and continue with your body work-filler, sand, prime, paint. I used a 110 mig with .23 wire, watch the current setting, I started too high to begin with and was burning the holes bigger until I turned it down.
     
  4. camiswelding

    camiswelding 1/2 ton status

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    I weld body stuff all the time in my shop... the previous post was right on about heat and all .. keep it low.. grind the gavli coating away off the sheet metal.. go slow...
    There is a special wire out there called "easygrind"I think made by ESAB.. made specifically for autobody sheetmetal mig welding... its expensive and is for bigger machines... but it grinds off easy because the steel is formulated softer...
    Also .. wherever you can if you can back up the hole with copper plate ( I have one I made like a badmiton paddle) it really helps destribute the heat and prevent burnthrough
    Then again... I just use my tig.. takes a little longer but there is little cleanup necessary.. just a swipe of filler
    hope this helps
    cam
     
  5. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I was going to suggest the copper plate trick, but I see I've been beaten to it.

    Something else, those holes have paint in them. Easiest way I know of to get rid of it is to use one of those "mechanic's alignment hand reamers". About 1/4 twist in each hole gets bare steel.
     
  6. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    A deburing tool works good for that, too.
     
  7. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the tips guys, i feel more confident now. Where can you buy copper at? would home depot have it?
     

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