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Welding Help

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by 3 on the tree, Dec 23, 2006.

  1. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    HELP!!!!!! Its been 20 years since I fired up an arc welder. I just got a Clarke 110V, 90 amp unit. I am TRYING to spot weld the laps on my galv metal siding. It is 23 gauge, and I am having a hell of a time getting a weld to stick, without burning through.

    Using 1/16 6011 rod. Tried going as low as 40 amps, does nothing but stick. Is there a different rod I should be using to better penetrate the galvy coating?

    There is no other way to put the back wall up on my shop building, so I gotta get this figured out. Basically, my neighbot put his storage building right up against the back of my shop, so all construction has to be from the inside. What a PITA. If things don't start coming together, the shop is gonna sit incomplete till spring.

    One more question. Will the fact that the metal is on the low side of 20 degrees(outside temp), make it more difficult to weld?????

    Thanks for any and all technical assistance.:bow: :bow: :bow:
     
  2. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I was taught that you should never weld galvanized material because the fumes are very toxic/and or will kill ya. I'll look through my welding book,and see what at it say's (if it does say anything)..
     
  3. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I can't find it. I think it's packed away still in the barn. :rolleyes:
     
  4. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    It'll take someone with some experiwence to weld 22g with a stick welder. No matter the rod or amps. Welding galvy won't kill ya, just make ya sick to your stomach. And thats only if you weld alot of it and make no effort to not breath it in. And if you know you're gonna be welding alot of galvy, drink some milk, believe it or not.

    Anyways, about the easiest way to weld that shiit would be with a MIG welder. Why can't you use self tapping sheetmetal screws?
     
  5. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Good to know.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Step one is to find a rod that doesn't like to dig as much as a 6010 or 6011. 6013 would be a better choice. Step two is plan where you are going to spot or stitch and buff the galvanizing off. Without having to burn through the coating first you might have a chance of having something fuse before overheating and blowing holes...

    Even doing that, it will be very difficult to do with stick, the process just isn't well suited to sheet metal.

    30-40 amps should be about right with a 6012 or 6013 in 1/16".

    Rene
     
  7. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the tips.:bow: :bow:

    I could use self tapping screws, but I would be going inside to out, so all the ends of the screws would be exposed on the outside.:doah:
     
  8. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    i welded some real thick galv. on a ford battery tray yesterday, made a lot of smoke and nasty stuff, but i left the roll up door in the shop open, and that made it a lot better.
    I also did a lot of welding on some galv. pipe corroral pipe,(whole bottom of a 60'x30' horse barn.) made a lot of smoke as well, but i used a small box fan to keep the shop clear.
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Another thing you could do is try and keep the rod angle kind of severe. If it's pointing straight at the joint it's more likely to overheat faster. It could be a paramter you could experiment with. Face it, you're not worried about getting enough penetration on stuff that thin...

    Rene
     
  10. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    good luck....

    I had one of those 110v arc welders...it only worked with special welding rods that you bought at Sears,I tried the usual 3/32 6011 and 6013 rods from the welding shop,and it was hell trying to get the arc started--the store didn't stock any rods smaller than 3/32"..I ended up selling that welder cheap,found a 220V arc welder for 50 bucks that could weld anything from 16 gauge to 3/8" thick steel..

    I have yet to own a MIG,I got pretty good with my AC arc welder,I use it for pretty much ALL my repairs..I braze body panels if I cant arc weld them,you could do that too,with an oxyacetalyne torch..

    If you practice,you can effectively "spot weld" sheet metal with an arc welder,but trying to run a continuous bead will not work,it will burn thru in seconds..takes quite a bit of practice to guess how long to hold the arc,and not burn thru,yet get hot enough to melt both peices together..I use 6013 rod 3/32" thick at 40 amps ,anything less you'll have trouble starting the arc..have to keep starting and stopping the arc,to control the temparature..

    I've borrowed a "stitch welding" atatchment from a friend,made by Eastwood,that you use in conjunction with an arc welder--it has a diode that reduces the amperage after the arc is struck,so you have better control and reduce the chance of burning thru..I was actually able to run a bead for an inch or two with that thing without making holes,but in my opinion its no substitute for a MIG welder..but it does help,and an arc welder DOES weld rusty metal better than a MIG will...and everything is rusty here!..

    Maybe you could use Pop Rivets instead of metal screws--they wont be sticking out of the outside of the wall,and be a hazard..if you weld it,you'll definately have to grind the zinc galvanization off first,and DONT breathe that white smoke in,or you'll get the "zinc chills",and have diarrea for days!..:doah:

    Another thing I thought of--DC welds thin stuff better than AC can,so perhaps 2 car batteries and jumper cables might weld it better than the AC arc welder!..just be sure to cover both batteries so sparks wont make bombs out of them!..I welded our wrought iron railings back together with 2 batteries last year!..


    :crazy:
     
  11. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Just take a 4.5" grinder and grind the protruding parts of the screws off. Or a zip disk on a 4.5" grinder. Zip disk's work great. They'll take a screw off in about .2 seconds, then you can clean it up a bit with the same disk. Less than 5 seconds for each screw.:wink1:

    And if rust is a worry, you can get Cold Galvanzing Compund in an aerosol can.
     
  12. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    There is another building backed up to mine( -8"). That's why I have to build and attach from the inside.
     
  13. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    lol, well, if the other building is only 8" away, who cares if the screws stick out. :D
     
  14. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    i bout some of that, high dollar rustolium stuff, it sucked ass, came right off, i bout the alum finish stuff, it worked alot better, and looked more like galv.

    also self tapping screws could be used with a right angle drill.
     
  15. Confedneck79K30

    Confedneck79K30 3/4 ton status

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    run the screws through it i say, nobody's gonna be between the buildings to get caught on one anyways, right?
     

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