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WELL SH!T

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 76_Cheyenne, Jul 6, 2002.

  1. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    Well I was putting on my new procomp brakelines and was all finished. Then just as I was bleeding the brakes for the second time fluid was squirting out of the new rear brake hose fitting! It says in the directions not to over torque and I tried not to, I didnt notice any slipping, I just wrenched it tight. But it leaks through the threads. I tried going loser and tighter but it kept leaking, and got worse. Can i fix this or does this mean I have to get a new hose fitting? I'm pissed! I was all excited to go for a test drive, can't things just work right the first time!
     
  2. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    is it leaking out of the hose or the fittign on the axle???
     
  3. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    It's leaking out of the copper block that bolts to the top of the axle and distributes the fluid to both rear brake lines. It's leaking/swirting through were the right rear brakeline blots in.
     
  4. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    i'd go get a new one...

    it's the brakes, i wouldnt just wrap teflona dn call it good...

    You can get one from the wrecking yard or a parts place for under 10 bucks...

    i double you stripped the brake line then...

    at least your s came off.. i cant getmine off most of the time...

    it's also a part les schwab or a tire place would have!
     
  5. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    But the thing is they're brand new 90$ stainless steel brake lines from pro comp! I sure as hell ain't buying a whole nother set. I sure hope they will give a new rear line, or the copper block thats at the end of the line that bolts to the rear axle. I guees i'll just have to call them tommorow
     
  6. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can't use teflon on brake-related parts. I can't remember why, but it just won't work. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    I have heard of teflon falling/tearing apart to where small pieces of the teflon get to floating around inside the lines and can/will plug up the lines. /forums/images/icons/mad.gif
     
  7. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Obvious stuff first - did you remember to use the little washers on either side of the banjo fitting (that's the block looking thing)? Without the washers it will leak like crazy, I've forgotten them on accident before. </font color>
     
  8. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Oh yeah, the 'crush washers'. These are very important to install on the banjo before it goes onto the calipers.

    They also say to replace them for new ones every time you take off this hose/banjo from the caliper.
     
  9. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    If I read it right, it's leaking on the devider block on the rear, not the front.... Thus, the only thing he can do is replace.. Sorry to hear the bad luck, I guess it strikes us all!
     
  10. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    These are flared connections that shouldn't require TOO much pressure to seal. Pull it back apart and see it the flare on the line is cracked, or if there is any trash in there keeping then from sealing. Look at the flare in the brass block and see if it is boogered up. There has to be a reason it isn't sealing, look close and try to figure out why. Then the repair should be obvious. My $.02

    Mike
     
  11. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    The leak is in the rear,I used the washers up front and they sealed fine. Its the Banjo thing that bolts to the rear axle. I tried screwing it, and retighting it a few times and each time it seemed to get worse. And there was some brass on the threads of the brake line where it screws in to the banjo. It must have stripped out the threads on the inside causeing the leak. Thanks for the help, I needed to vent last night! I was pissed.
     
  12. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    Oh yeah, I just called called Procomp and there closed on Sat.!!! looks like im stuck for the weekend. Does anyone know if you can just replace the brass kunkle that bolts to the axle. It would be one huge waste if I hade to buy a whole new kit just cause one small spot leaks?
     
  13. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Where did you buy the lines? If it's a local shop, take the rear line back and say there's something wrong with it.
     
  14. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    Nope, I bought them from 4wheelparts off the internet.
     
  15. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Call their 800 number and see about them exchanging the rear line as your's must have had a defect. wink, wink.
     
  16. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    You should be able to get that little brass block at any junk yard or pick-n-pull. If you were alittle closer I've got one from a 12 bolt you could have. But check out the junk yards in your area first. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  17. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Kid he has the ProComp made by Earls SS lines. They use a special block on theirs.
     
  18. 76_Cheyenne

    76_Cheyenne 1/2 ton status

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    Well I put the old rear line back on and waiting for my friend to come over to halp me bleed the brakes again. I think I'll call ProComp first to see If I can get a new brass block from them. Then i'll try to get a new one from 4wheel parts. The procomp line screws into the brass block, so I thought I could just unscrew it and screw on my old one to the extneded line but the factory line goes into the brass block and clamps in. So I guess I have to wait till monday to see what options I have.
     
  19. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I thought the flare on a stainless steel hard line was at a different pitch then the flare on a steel line. The Stainless steel will crack if you try to flare as much as the typical flare on a steel line. If I'm correct then you need a splitter block with the matching flare for the SS lines.
     

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